94 prelude dohc si trans into a 2001 prelude?
My g/f's auto trans is going out of her 01 lude. We want to convert it to Manual.
I can get a manual trans from a 94 Prelude. Will this bolt on/in her engine/car with out a hitch???? I know I will have to get lots of other parts from a car her generation but I can get this trans on the cheap. Its in good condition and I'm trying to keep her from going broke on this change over. I did a quick search and didn't find anything on this. Any help would be great.
I can get a manual trans from a 94 Prelude. Will this bolt on/in her engine/car with out a hitch???? I know I will have to get lots of other parts from a car her generation but I can get this trans on the cheap. Its in good condition and I'm trying to keep her from going broke on this change over. I did a quick search and didn't find anything on this. Any help would be great.
Add an ECU to the list as well....
The immobilizer is something that has to be considered as well......
When you search....be sure to try ARCHIVED. Thats a Top5 search problem with most.
The immobilizer is something that has to be considered as well......
When you search....be sure to try ARCHIVED. Thats a Top5 search problem with most.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!! Your right, I didn't do the archive thing. I will when I do this tonight. I'm really going to have to do some research on this. I was figuring on having to get the imobilzer. I'm hoping that at my local Junkyard I can get all of the parts I need.
Is the Immobilzer seperate from the ECU? I'm going to have to find a stock M/T ecu also. I wasn't sure if they were one in the same. Guess I'll be replacing ignition locks. all kinds of stuff. Woo hoo.....
Is the Immobilzer seperate from the ECU? I'm going to have to find a stock M/T ecu also. I wasn't sure if they were one in the same. Guess I'll be replacing ignition locks. all kinds of stuff. Woo hoo.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The auto ecu can easily be converted to manual. It only involves removing a small resistor. Search.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow..... Really..... Thanks for telling me that. I'll be looking into that also....
Wow..... Really..... Thanks for telling me that. I'll be looking into that also....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The auto ecu can easily be converted to manual. It only involves removing a small resistor. Search.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I converted mine, you dont remove teh resistor, you move it. The only bad part it is freakin tiny.
I converted mine, you dont remove teh resistor, you move it. The only bad part it is freakin tiny.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludestud11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I converted mine, you dont remove teh resistor, you move it. The only bad part it is freakin tiny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So this is the same for OBD2 ECUs?
I converted mine, you dont remove teh resistor, you move it. The only bad part it is freakin tiny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So this is the same for OBD2 ECUs?
I would honestly look for an H22 transmission like a M2A4. The Si transmission's longer gear ratios won't be good to drive with power band of the H22.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would honestly look for an H22 transmission like a M2A4. The Si transmission's longer gear ratios won't be good to drive with power band of the H22.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This may be an option for the future. Right now I just need to keep this car moving on the limited amount of funds that She has. She is still new in the world of driving a clutch any how. So I figure I will probably be replacing the clutch down the road. Hopefully we can find the correct Trans between now and then. I'll just replace the Trans and the Clutch. Its around 1000 for the correct used trans from a local parts yard with a guarentee and the trans from my friend is 300 bucks and it is a good trans.
This may be an option for the future. Right now I just need to keep this car moving on the limited amount of funds that She has. She is still new in the world of driving a clutch any how. So I figure I will probably be replacing the clutch down the road. Hopefully we can find the correct Trans between now and then. I'll just replace the Trans and the Clutch. Its around 1000 for the correct used trans from a local parts yard with a guarentee and the trans from my friend is 300 bucks and it is a good trans.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would honestly look for an H22 transmission like a M2A4. The Si transmission's longer gear ratios won't be good to drive with power band of the H22.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Man....people talk about the H23 ratios like theyre F22 ratios.
There is not much of a difference at all......I have run 4 types of trannies in my car and they are almost identical.
Man....people talk about the H23 ratios like theyre F22 ratios.
There is not much of a difference at all......I have run 4 types of trannies in my car and they are almost identical.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by primerk5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is the Immobilizer seperate from the ECU? I'm going to have to find a stock M/T ecu also. I wasn't sure if they were one in the same. Guess I'll be replacing ignition locks. all kinds of stuff. Woo hoo.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There are 4 Parts to the Immobilizer system. If you can get 3 of them (key,ecu,black box) you can get this to work and wont disable the factory immobilizer.
First is the key itself, it has to be matched the the black box (covered later) and the ECU.
Second is the "reader" which reads the Code from the key, its located in your ignition switch (this is interchangble its just a reader doesn't care what key/car its in)
The third part is a small black box located under the dash on the left side of the steering column This has to be matched with the ECU it came with as well as the Key.
The forth is the ECU this has to match the Black Box and Key that its programmed too.
If you can get all these parts and move them over to the new car you will not have any issues.
What I did to make the key work (since the cut will be different and it wont work unless you switch out the whole ignition switch, if you do this you will have to have 2 keys one for the doors and one for the starter). I didn't want 2 keys so I did this:
I took my Original key to honda and the New key, I bought a blank key and had them program it with the new code from the new key but had the cut for the original key. I just explained what I was doing and they had no problem doing this for me, ended up costing about 20 bucks for the key they didn't charge me for the reprogramming as they had a machine that can "copy" the code from the new key fairly easily.
Of course if you have the original Red key you can reprogram the ECU to accept new key codes and avoid all this mess. I didn't have the Red Key
Is the Immobilizer seperate from the ECU? I'm going to have to find a stock M/T ecu also. I wasn't sure if they were one in the same. Guess I'll be replacing ignition locks. all kinds of stuff. Woo hoo.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>There are 4 Parts to the Immobilizer system. If you can get 3 of them (key,ecu,black box) you can get this to work and wont disable the factory immobilizer.
First is the key itself, it has to be matched the the black box (covered later) and the ECU.
Second is the "reader" which reads the Code from the key, its located in your ignition switch (this is interchangble its just a reader doesn't care what key/car its in)
The third part is a small black box located under the dash on the left side of the steering column This has to be matched with the ECU it came with as well as the Key.
The forth is the ECU this has to match the Black Box and Key that its programmed too.
If you can get all these parts and move them over to the new car you will not have any issues.
What I did to make the key work (since the cut will be different and it wont work unless you switch out the whole ignition switch, if you do this you will have to have 2 keys one for the doors and one for the starter). I didn't want 2 keys so I did this:
I took my Original key to honda and the New key, I bought a blank key and had them program it with the new code from the new key but had the cut for the original key. I just explained what I was doing and they had no problem doing this for me, ended up costing about 20 bucks for the key they didn't charge me for the reprogramming as they had a machine that can "copy" the code from the new key fairly easily.
Of course if you have the original Red key you can reprogram the ECU to accept new key codes and avoid all this mess. I didn't have the Red Key
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JonGP4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Of course if you have the original Red key you can reprogram the ECU to except new key codes and avoid all this mess. I didn't have the Red Key
</TD></TR></TABLE>
She dosen't have the original key either.
That was a great Idea... I found the thing on moving the resistor from one spot to another on the Auto ECU.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1275452
I'm one of those people that would rather use the correct ecu for a manual trans.
However..... I'm now wondering the Advantages and disadvantages of using the Autotrans ECU with Resistor, with the Auto Wiring converted for the Manual Trans.
Vs
Manual trans ECU/Immobilzer possibly Manual trans Wiring. If I can find an Engine Harness. I know I can get the Chassis harness.
How much modification is there to the Auto side to get things to work.
Of course if you have the original Red key you can reprogram the ECU to except new key codes and avoid all this mess. I didn't have the Red Key
</TD></TR></TABLE>She dosen't have the original key either.
That was a great Idea... I found the thing on moving the resistor from one spot to another on the Auto ECU.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1275452
I'm one of those people that would rather use the correct ecu for a manual trans.
However..... I'm now wondering the Advantages and disadvantages of using the Autotrans ECU with Resistor, with the Auto Wiring converted for the Manual Trans.
Vs
Manual trans ECU/Immobilzer possibly Manual trans Wiring. If I can find an Engine Harness. I know I can get the Chassis harness.
How much modification is there to the Auto side to get things to work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by primerk5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How much modification is there to the Auto side to get things to work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wish i could help you, i never did a swap in a 5th gen. I just knew the stuff about the immobilizer because i bought a prelude for cheap with no keys. He had no idea how to get the car running I picked it up for 2k, got the parts i needed and it was a running prelude 97 model for less then 3k.
How much modification is there to the Auto side to get things to work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wish i could help you, i never did a swap in a 5th gen. I just knew the stuff about the immobilizer because i bought a prelude for cheap with no keys. He had no idea how to get the car running I picked it up for 2k, got the parts i needed and it was a running prelude 97 model for less then 3k.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by primerk5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm one of those people that would rather use the correct ecu for a manual trans.
However..... I'm now wondering the Advantages and disadvantages of using the Autotrans ECU with Resistor, with the Auto Wiring converted for the Manual Trans.
Vs
Manual trans ECU/Immobilzer possibly Manual trans Wiring. If I can find an Engine Harness. I know I can get the Chassis harness.
How much modification is there to the Auto side to get things to work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
just modify the auto harness. there is a few writeups how to do it, i have a 98 prelude that has been converted and it drives just like it was factory manual. I am still using the auto ecu becuase i get better gas milage with it. with the auto converted to manual ecu i get about 30mpg, as aposed to my manual p13 i was only getting 22. Although the car is more peppy with the p13, i like the gas milage, its not my race car, so im fine with the extra gas milage.
I'm one of those people that would rather use the correct ecu for a manual trans.
However..... I'm now wondering the Advantages and disadvantages of using the Autotrans ECU with Resistor, with the Auto Wiring converted for the Manual Trans.
Vs
Manual trans ECU/Immobilzer possibly Manual trans Wiring. If I can find an Engine Harness. I know I can get the Chassis harness.
How much modification is there to the Auto side to get things to work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
just modify the auto harness. there is a few writeups how to do it, i have a 98 prelude that has been converted and it drives just like it was factory manual. I am still using the auto ecu becuase i get better gas milage with it. with the auto converted to manual ecu i get about 30mpg, as aposed to my manual p13 i was only getting 22. Although the car is more peppy with the p13, i like the gas milage, its not my race car, so im fine with the extra gas milage.
Sounds like a great Deal!!!!! Now All I have to do is get all of the parts I need. And the destruction will begin!!!!
Thanks again. If anyone else has any more input please post it as I will searching all over this forum for ideas for a short while until I gather all the required parts.
Thanks again. If anyone else has any more input please post it as I will searching all over this forum for ideas for a short while until I gather all the required parts.
I posted some stuff on preludeonlin.com that you should look out for when converting it liek the firewall reinforcement, and the top pedal screw.
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