Okay, I live in Irvine, CA. I've had my hood popped about three times in the last six months. Luckily I have CARB EXEMPT Intake and headers.

Well... I want to boost, but right now my only option for a VISUALLY street legal boost is the Greddy Turbo Kit. I know it's expensive for the amount of power it puts out but I really have no choice since it's my daily driver.

I have a Type-S motor with ATTS right now which I will be converting down to a JDM LSD Transmission. Also I'll be converting from OBD-2 to OBD-1 so I can use Greddy's E-Manage or Hondata's ECU.

Anyways, I have a couple of questions...

1) Can I increase the boost of this kit by changing out to a higher boost BOV? If so, how much boost can I get at the max?

2) What internals should I DEFINATELY change that will make the BIGGEST difference in having a reliable boost job?
(eg. Pistons, Sleeves, Rods, Crank)

3) Should I do any valve work as well?

4) What's better Greddy's E-Manage or Hondata?

5) Anything else I should do?

Thanks for reading.

-Frosty

 

1) wtf are talkn about changing out a higher boost bov... that wont do anything for the amount of boost you run. A TDO5 18G can put out around 20psi.

2) Build your entire block

3) no need

4) Hondata

5) It can make a decent amount of power and is nice for a daily driver setup. Its a bit on the small side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) wtf are talkn about changing out a higher boost bov... that wont do anything for the amount of boost you run. A TDO5 18G can put out around 20psi.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think he's talking about a wastegate, not a BOV. and i believe the greddy turbos are internally gated, no?

 

Okay, I think I'm a little confused. I know the Greddy Turbo is internally gated, but I thought that the spring for the BOV could be changed to hold more boost. I remember working on a BOV with my friend and we took out the original SPRING and put in a spring with a higher spring rate to hold in more boost. Kinda like, if your turbo boosts 8 psi, Greddy would give you a BOV that would only hold in 6psi and blow off anything extra to make it a 6psi Kit. ::::

Anyways, thanks for the tips.

Anyother question tho. What's the difference between the 24v Intercooler Kit versus the 31v Intercooler Kit by Greddy?

 

yes the greddy kit is internally gated you will need to have a boost controller to up the boost. with the boost controller you will be able to go higher than the wastegates spring but not lower. now remember that the greddy kit does not come with a intercooler you will have to buy that seperate. please do somemore research i do not want to read a thread in the near future that you blew your motor. the MOST important thing is tuning and fuel. upgrade the fuel system and get a great tuner.

 

okay... its internally wastegated correct. However, it has an external wastegate actuator. You can adjust it externally.

This is my car with a Greddy 31V intercooler. It is smaller than the 24v according to greddy. 31's cost $1000 and the 24's cost $1300



Here is a 24

 

Question. A while back I was looking at the Greddy Turbo Kit for the Prelude online and they said it was CARB Exempt. I'm looking at it now and it doesn't say anywhere that it's CARB Exempt. Has this changed? Does anybody know? I really need a "CARB Exempt" turbo kit.

 

as far as i know you will be fine...yes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) wtf are talkn about changing out a higher boost bov... that wont do anything for the amount of boost you run. A TDO5 18G can put out around 20psi.

2) Build your entire block

3) no need

4) Hondata

5) It can make a decent amount of power and is nice for a daily driver setup. Its a bit on the small side. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know you said no Valve work, but if I got Turbo Cams, would that make a huge difference?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) wtf are talkn about changing out a higher boost bov... that wont do anything for the amount of boost you run. A TDO5 18G can put out around 20psi.

2) Build your entire block

3) no need

4) Hondata

5) It can make a decent amount of power and is nice for a daily driver setup. Its a bit on the small side. </TD></TR></TABLE>

When you say, "Build Your Entire Block" are you also recommending a crankshaft upgrade? Cuz that **** is expensive!!! Almost 2 grand!!!

 

Any answers to the last two questions? ^^^^^

 

If you tear your bottom end apart, you may wanna go ahead and do some basic crankshaft work. Search around for various shops and see the crankwork packages they offer, and talk to them. I could tell you a few basic things you may wanna do, but they would know better, so I'll let them tell ya. You honestly don't need to do anything internally for the Greddy turbo kit, but if you want more than about 9 psi, it wont be a bad idea. What you really need to do to lower your static CR is to get forged, lower cr pistons, some beefy rods, and damn good bearings. Do your research here, its vital. Don't cheap out and get a thicker head gasket, I could tell you a ton of reasons why but there's no need to get technical, just trust me, its cheaping out. You could do headwork but its not necessary, spend the money on rods and pistons for now.

 

Okay, so here's what I got lined up. Let me know what you guys think, anything missing? Anything I should take out?

 

Not bad... prices might need a lil adjusting. To save money I would take out the following: All valvetrain, AEM fuel rail, AEM boost controller. You should add an AEM UEGO wideband o2 tho.

 

Are you sure All Valvetrain work should be taken out? Wouldn't the Turbo Cams help at least?

 

Okay so here's the updated table. I've taken out all valve work, added the AEM UEGO Wide-Band Controller, the digital guage, and a metal head gasket.



Quick Question... the Greddy Turbo hit comes with the E-Manage system. Is that not good enough? Or should I get the Hondata ECU and use that.

 

The valve work wont help enough to justify the cost imo...how about that. BTW how much boost do you plan to run? if you plan to run 20 pounds simply dropping in mahle 9:1 pistons isnt going to cut it. Fully built blocks usually cost around $3500+. The h22 block need to be sleeved to handle that kinda pressure.

I just read that you want it bored out also .5 over lol. Let me explain something... the 18g is already slightly too small for our engines. It just isnt matched right. If you create more displacement the turbos are going to fall flat on there face in the top end. Its also going to create a lot of back pressure (not good lol). Keep the same size pistons or max .2 over imo.

 

The Greddy Kit comes with 370cc injectors. Is that going to be enough considering I'm going to be boosting more than the ideal 6psi the kit was designed for?

 

Lol man... use the search feature. Do some research...for your cars sake man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The valve work wont help enough to justify the cost imo...how about that. BTW how much boost do you plan to run? if you plan to run 20 pounds simply dropping in mahle 9:1 pistons isnt going to cut it. Fully built blocks usually cost around $3500+. The h22 block need to be sleeved to handle that kinda pressure.

I just read that you want it bored out also .5 over lol. Let me explain something... the 18g is already slightly too small for our engines. It just isnt matched right. If you create more displacement the turbos are going to fall flat on there face in the top end. Its also going to create a lot of back pressure (not good lol). Keep the same size pistons or max .2 over imo. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I'm getting pistons with a 0.5 oversize. I also have Darton Sleeves on the list. What else should I be doing to the block other than what's listed?

 

the e-manage is only good for the stock kit.

Honestly just try and find some of those placards and just make a custom kit =P

so far that list looks ok

but if you want to up the boost you are going to need a boost controller

Also you might want to look into an oil pressure gauge, and EGT gauge(helps tuning timing for boost)

for a boost controller I loved my Profec B Spec II but it takes a while to get it all set up and it can be kinda confusing.

since your getting Hondata S300 you might as well get the stuff for the ECu boost control all the info is on the Hondata site, I believe you need a GM boost solenoid.

also the UEGO controller you need to hook up to a laptop to read the A/F ratios I suggest getting the gauge as well, BUT be warned Hondata doesn't work as well with the AEM UEGO as it does with the PLX devices so you might want to look into those.

I've had lots of problems getting my AEM to work well with my Hondata and it's constantly needs adjusting everytime I want to datalog correctly so thats just a warning.

 

dj frost you dont want to boar it over .5 man. Anyway If you need a Greddy Profec B spec II... I have one for sale. And yes those injectors will be too small

 

God Damn this boosting **** is HARD!!! AND EXPENSIVE!!! Maybe I should just drop this project and go buy my S15 for $40,000 -_-

 

type 31 cost around 800, type 24 cost around 1000

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mykizism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">type 31 cost around 800, type 24 cost around 1000</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be the obvious difference. What is the product difference.