Sound dampening material?????
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Olympia, WA, USA
Sound dampening material?????
hey i was curious if you happen to know of some form of sound dampening material I could put in my car, I'd like to be able to talk on my phone while going 60 on the freeway, but its too loud in my car. do you know of any solutions? Its just the road noise is far too intense, and wanted to find something cheap and easy. 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7
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From: West Monroe, LA
Re: Sound dampening material????? (love of the sol)
I just had most of my car done with Dynamat. It made a HUGE difference in road noise. Have the doors and trunk done. There's a mat for the floor board that will help also. Labor is intense, unless you plan on doing it yourself. You won't regret doing though.
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Sound dampening material????? (love of the sol)
Lets see, cheap and easy, I believe they are mutually exclusive.
You can be relatively cheap, but "sound abatement" is not easy.
There are many Dynamat... http://www.dynamat.com/ type products out there.
Your Google search for automotive sound dampening found 109,000 sites... http://www.google.com/search?s...ening 10-20 of them will have something directly related to what you are looking for.
Once you see pricing you will understand "relatively cheap", but back to "not easy", by that I mean if you want to do effective noise control will mean you will need to gut the interior of your car, not that hard, [with the right tools] but time consuming.
When I say gut I mean every thing that can come out does, except dash or wire harnesses.
Find your local car upholstery supply shop and get a couple cans of spray adhesive
a roll of "automotive carpet underlay" this is a 1/2" thick x 30" wide mat made up of shredded cloth fill, bonding agents and "stuff", [I swear there is hemp in it].
The above you will use as it was meant to be used, as an underlay, you will cut into shape and cover the floor pan of the car with it, as far up the firewall as you can go and to the rear shock towers, and around them a bit, you will not stuff any of it into any side cavity of the car, it will be spray glued into place, sections should be made across the car not lengthwise, you will butt the sections together, not overlap, but before you install the underlay...
Decide if you want to do the roof, otherwise...
Go to your local auto-parts shop and buy 4 cans of "Rubberized Under Coat", spray 2 light coats all over rear wheel wells, inside of car, do the same on the firewall directly in front of tires, [only a narrow strip] as high as you can go, you will need to move a few things and cover the rest, you do not want it any RUC anyplace but on surfaces discribed.
The above will need to dry in a well ventalated area, all doors/hatch open, once dry it can be covered with underlay, [I always start my underlay in middle of car and move forward and back, keeps me working on the car as the spray dries.
A lot of the noise comes from the tires through the wheel wells that's why they are sprayed and covered with underlay.
The rest of the spray will be used in the wheel wells and area of firewall and kick panel behind the tire, plastic wheel wells will need to be removed, [front wheels].
Remember many light coats will work much better then heavy coats.
You may as well do some "real" dampening at this time, you don't have to go crazy, 10sqft of a Dynamat, [or something like it] will do, 1sqft on each rear 1/4 panel, [2door] and 1sqft-2sqft for each door, [front], this to be applied to the inside of the cars outside sheet metal skin, that leaves you 1sqft for each front speaker location, under speaker housing.
You will replace the front door plastic vapor barriers with a roofing material, local roofing supply shop, it is a watertight membrane, under many names, [I think it is even sold on eBay as a "cheap alternative" to things like Dynamat] it will be a roll about 30" wide and will have a peel off backing covering a sticky surface, so mounting is easy.
If you have cut and fitted everything properly, ["adjustments" may have to be made] the interior will go back in without any problem.
Told you, not easy, but if you do the above, you will not believe the differance, like day and night.
94
BTW, you can spend a ton of money on commercial sound abatement products and do the same, even better, but the amount of work will be the same.
You can be relatively cheap, but "sound abatement" is not easy.
There are many Dynamat... http://www.dynamat.com/ type products out there.
Your Google search for automotive sound dampening found 109,000 sites... http://www.google.com/search?s...ening 10-20 of them will have something directly related to what you are looking for.
Once you see pricing you will understand "relatively cheap", but back to "not easy", by that I mean if you want to do effective noise control will mean you will need to gut the interior of your car, not that hard, [with the right tools] but time consuming.
When I say gut I mean every thing that can come out does, except dash or wire harnesses.
Find your local car upholstery supply shop and get a couple cans of spray adhesive
a roll of "automotive carpet underlay" this is a 1/2" thick x 30" wide mat made up of shredded cloth fill, bonding agents and "stuff", [I swear there is hemp in it].
The above you will use as it was meant to be used, as an underlay, you will cut into shape and cover the floor pan of the car with it, as far up the firewall as you can go and to the rear shock towers, and around them a bit, you will not stuff any of it into any side cavity of the car, it will be spray glued into place, sections should be made across the car not lengthwise, you will butt the sections together, not overlap, but before you install the underlay...
Decide if you want to do the roof, otherwise...
Go to your local auto-parts shop and buy 4 cans of "Rubberized Under Coat", spray 2 light coats all over rear wheel wells, inside of car, do the same on the firewall directly in front of tires, [only a narrow strip] as high as you can go, you will need to move a few things and cover the rest, you do not want it any RUC anyplace but on surfaces discribed.
The above will need to dry in a well ventalated area, all doors/hatch open, once dry it can be covered with underlay, [I always start my underlay in middle of car and move forward and back, keeps me working on the car as the spray dries.
A lot of the noise comes from the tires through the wheel wells that's why they are sprayed and covered with underlay.
The rest of the spray will be used in the wheel wells and area of firewall and kick panel behind the tire, plastic wheel wells will need to be removed, [front wheels].
Remember many light coats will work much better then heavy coats.
You may as well do some "real" dampening at this time, you don't have to go crazy, 10sqft of a Dynamat, [or something like it] will do, 1sqft on each rear 1/4 panel, [2door] and 1sqft-2sqft for each door, [front], this to be applied to the inside of the cars outside sheet metal skin, that leaves you 1sqft for each front speaker location, under speaker housing.
You will replace the front door plastic vapor barriers with a roofing material, local roofing supply shop, it is a watertight membrane, under many names, [I think it is even sold on eBay as a "cheap alternative" to things like Dynamat] it will be a roll about 30" wide and will have a peel off backing covering a sticky surface, so mounting is easy.
If you have cut and fitted everything properly, ["adjustments" may have to be made] the interior will go back in without any problem.
Told you, not easy, but if you do the above, you will not believe the differance, like day and night.
94BTW, you can spend a ton of money on commercial sound abatement products and do the same, even better, but the amount of work will be the same.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: Olympia, WA, USA
Re: Sound dampening material????? (fcm)
Originally Posted by fcm
Lets see, cheap and easy, I believe they are mutually exclusive.
You can be relatively cheap, but "sound abatement" is not easy.
There are many Dynamat... http://www.dynamat.com/ type products out there.
Your Google search for automotive sound dampening found 109,000 sites... http://www.google.com/search?s...ening 10-20 of them will have something directly related to what you are looking for.
Once you see pricing you will understand "relatively cheap", but back to "not easy", by that I mean if you want to do effective noise control will mean you will need to gut the interior of your car, not that hard, [with the right tools] but time consuming.
When I say gut I mean every thing that can come out does, except dash or wire harnesses.
Find your local car upholstery supply shop and get a couple cans of spray adhesive
a roll of "automotive carpet underlay" this is a 1/2" thick x 30" wide mat made up of shredded cloth fill, bonding agents and "stuff", [I swear there is hemp in it].
The above you will use as it was meant to be used, as an underlay, you will cut into shape and cover the floor pan of the car with it, as far up the firewall as you can go and to the rear shock towers, and around them a bit, you will not stuff any of it into any side cavity of the car, it will be spray glued into place, sections should be made across the car not lengthwise, you will butt the sections together, not overlap, but before you install the underlay...
Decide if you want to do the roof, otherwise...
Go to your local auto-parts shop and buy 4 cans of "Rubberized Under Coat", spray 2 light coats all over rear wheel wells, inside of car, do the same on the firewall directly in front of tires, [only a narrow strip] as high as you can go, you will need to move a few things and cover the rest, you do not want it any RUC anyplace but on surfaces discribed.
The above will need to dry in a well ventalated area, all doors/hatch open, once dry it can be covered with underlay, [I always start my underlay in middle of car and move forward and back, keeps me working on the car as the spray dries.
A lot of the noise comes from the tires through the wheel wells that's why they are sprayed and covered with underlay.
The rest of the spray will be used in the wheel wells and area of firewall and kick panel behind the tire, plastic wheel wells will need to be removed, [front wheels].
Remember many light coats will work much better then heavy coats.
You may as well do some "real" dampening at this time, you don't have to go crazy, 10sqft of a Dynamat, [or something like it] will do, 1sqft on each rear 1/4 panel, [2door] and 1sqft-2sqft for each door, [front], this to be applied to the inside of the cars outside sheet metal skin, that leaves you 1sqft for each front speaker location, under speaker housing.
You will replace the front door plastic vapor barriers with a roofing material, local roofing supply shop, it is a watertight membrane, under many names, [I think it is even sold on eBay as a "cheap alternative" to things like Dynamat] it will be a roll about 30" wide and will have a peel off backing covering a sticky surface, so mounting is easy.
If you have cut and fitted everything properly, ["adjustments" may have to be made] the interior will go back in without any problem.
Told you, not easy, but if you do the above, you will not believe the differance, like day and night. 94
BTW, you can spend a ton of money on commercial sound abatement products and do the same, even better, but the amount of work will be the same.
You can be relatively cheap, but "sound abatement" is not easy.
There are many Dynamat... http://www.dynamat.com/ type products out there.
Your Google search for automotive sound dampening found 109,000 sites... http://www.google.com/search?s...ening 10-20 of them will have something directly related to what you are looking for.
Once you see pricing you will understand "relatively cheap", but back to "not easy", by that I mean if you want to do effective noise control will mean you will need to gut the interior of your car, not that hard, [with the right tools] but time consuming.
When I say gut I mean every thing that can come out does, except dash or wire harnesses.
Find your local car upholstery supply shop and get a couple cans of spray adhesive
a roll of "automotive carpet underlay" this is a 1/2" thick x 30" wide mat made up of shredded cloth fill, bonding agents and "stuff", [I swear there is hemp in it].
The above you will use as it was meant to be used, as an underlay, you will cut into shape and cover the floor pan of the car with it, as far up the firewall as you can go and to the rear shock towers, and around them a bit, you will not stuff any of it into any side cavity of the car, it will be spray glued into place, sections should be made across the car not lengthwise, you will butt the sections together, not overlap, but before you install the underlay...
Decide if you want to do the roof, otherwise...
Go to your local auto-parts shop and buy 4 cans of "Rubberized Under Coat", spray 2 light coats all over rear wheel wells, inside of car, do the same on the firewall directly in front of tires, [only a narrow strip] as high as you can go, you will need to move a few things and cover the rest, you do not want it any RUC anyplace but on surfaces discribed.
The above will need to dry in a well ventalated area, all doors/hatch open, once dry it can be covered with underlay, [I always start my underlay in middle of car and move forward and back, keeps me working on the car as the spray dries.
A lot of the noise comes from the tires through the wheel wells that's why they are sprayed and covered with underlay.
The rest of the spray will be used in the wheel wells and area of firewall and kick panel behind the tire, plastic wheel wells will need to be removed, [front wheels].
Remember many light coats will work much better then heavy coats.
You may as well do some "real" dampening at this time, you don't have to go crazy, 10sqft of a Dynamat, [or something like it] will do, 1sqft on each rear 1/4 panel, [2door] and 1sqft-2sqft for each door, [front], this to be applied to the inside of the cars outside sheet metal skin, that leaves you 1sqft for each front speaker location, under speaker housing.
You will replace the front door plastic vapor barriers with a roofing material, local roofing supply shop, it is a watertight membrane, under many names, [I think it is even sold on eBay as a "cheap alternative" to things like Dynamat] it will be a roll about 30" wide and will have a peel off backing covering a sticky surface, so mounting is easy.
If you have cut and fitted everything properly, ["adjustments" may have to be made] the interior will go back in without any problem.
Told you, not easy, but if you do the above, you will not believe the differance, like day and night.
94BTW, you can spend a ton of money on commercial sound abatement products and do the same, even better, but the amount of work will be the same.
Originally Posted by saltyone
I just had most of my car done with Dynamat. It made a HUGE difference in road noise. Have the doors and trunk done. There's a mat for the floor board that will help also. Labor is intense, unless you plan on doing it yourself. You won't regret doing though.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: Olympia, WA, USA
Re: Sound dampening material????? (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> "what the hell is dynamat?"
You didn't look at any of the links I gave you, did you?
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol nope
i r teh stoopidz
You didn't look at any of the links I gave you, did you?
94</TD></TR></TABLE>lol nope
i r teh stoopidz
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Parsonsburg, MD, U.S.A.
Re: Sound dampening material????? (love of the sol)
I have always used Peal N Seal. You can find it in the roofing section at Lowes. a 6" x 25 ft (if i remember right) is about $13. I've never had a problem with it. It's basically the same thing as many of the automotive sound deadening materials.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 512
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From: somewhere, WI
Re: Sound dampening material????? (love of the sol)
A few 7thgen guys dynamatted, and said it worked wonders. Im sure that if you use any type of deadener it should help out a lot. Ittl at least be better than it was, ya know.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 446
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From: Olympia, WA, USA
Re: Sound dampening material????? (sil04ver)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sil04ver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A few 7thgen guys dynamatted, and said it worked wonders. Im sure that if you use any type of deadener it should help out a lot. Ittl at least be better than it was, ya know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah true, but I'd also like to have kind of a confirmation from someone who has done it before ya know?
yeah true, but I'd also like to have kind of a confirmation from someone who has done it before ya know?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 863
Likes: 0
From: tha burgh, PA
Re: (02 accord)
i dynamated my 4th gen lude.i did the whole floor and most of the trunk except the lid and some of the driver side.also under the rear seats.the reason i didnt do the whole trunk is just because i ran out. but just from covering the whole floor and most of the trunk i defiantly noticed a difference.i mainly did it to cut down the exhaust noise.it cut down the road noise and cut the exhaust noise down as well.also eliminated almost all of the vibration in the floor(allot of it was from the exhaust,and the engine when it was sitting at idle).i am very pleased with the results i got from installing the dynamat.i do plan on finishing the trunk and covering the doors as well once i install everything in the doors that i plan on installing.
if you do end up installing dynamat i would recommend that you cover the whole floor and the floor of the trunk as well as the doors.if you do that you should have very little road noise at all.good luck
but just from covering the whole floor and most of the trunk i defiantly noticed a difference.i mainly did it to cut down the exhaust noise.it cut down the road noise and cut the exhaust noise down as well.also eliminated almost all of the vibration in the floor(allot of it was from the exhaust,and the engine when it was sitting at idle).i am very pleased with the results i got from installing the dynamat.i do plan on finishing the trunk and covering the doors as well once i install everything in the doors that i plan on installing.if you do end up installing dynamat i would recommend that you cover the whole floor and the floor of the trunk as well as the doors.if you do that you should have very little road noise at all.good luck
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Netherlands, Netherlands
anyone one who tried the liquid sound deadening from:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com
i'm looking into getting a gallon of this stuff to do the complete floor, sides, and doors.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com
i'm looking into getting a gallon of this stuff to do the complete floor, sides, and doors.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,407
Likes: 5
From: Locash
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Eden Prairie, MN, USA
Re: (suspendedHatch)
hello guys
I just applied 400 bucks worth of sound deadener to my good old 2003 honda civic. First of all let me tell you that it is completely worth it when you consider how noisy a Civic is, at last I can hear myself thinking when driving above 45 mph, the sound quality of your audio system is also improved as you don't have to crank it up as high as before.
I got my stuff from second skin. You can either go with Damplifier/Damplifier pro or the Spectrum spray and you need to get the closed cell foam to complement them.
I did everything except the roof and I still have 8 sheets left so I will do it when I feel like doing it lol. I used up 140 feet square of damplifier and 6 sheets of overkill (closed cell foam). That was a lot of hardwork, removing the carpet, seat etc was a pain in the *** but it was definitely worth it
It could be useful for you to check the pictures and comments at:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com...=2939
------------------------------------------------------
bobobob, you need much more than one gallon to do the complete floor, sides and doors, you will probably need 4 to 5 gallons. You need to lay down at least 1 mm on the surface you are sound deadening, which requires several application with curing in between.
I just applied 400 bucks worth of sound deadener to my good old 2003 honda civic. First of all let me tell you that it is completely worth it when you consider how noisy a Civic is, at last I can hear myself thinking when driving above 45 mph, the sound quality of your audio system is also improved as you don't have to crank it up as high as before.
I got my stuff from second skin. You can either go with Damplifier/Damplifier pro or the Spectrum spray and you need to get the closed cell foam to complement them.
I did everything except the roof and I still have 8 sheets left so I will do it when I feel like doing it lol. I used up 140 feet square of damplifier and 6 sheets of overkill (closed cell foam). That was a lot of hardwork, removing the carpet, seat etc was a pain in the *** but it was definitely worth it
It could be useful for you to check the pictures and comments at:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com...=2939
------------------------------------------------------
bobobob, you need much more than one gallon to do the complete floor, sides and doors, you will probably need 4 to 5 gallons. You need to lay down at least 1 mm on the surface you are sound deadening, which requires several application with curing in between.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Netherlands, Netherlands
Re: (Rendition)
your car is a little bigger than a 96 hatch...
i might get some more, or just do the floor with and the rest with the damplifier....
i'm still thinking which way to go..
You did an awesom job by the way, i suppose your car is a lot less noisier now, and have really soft and bouncy carpet
i might get some more, or just do the floor with and the rest with the damplifier....
i'm still thinking which way to go..
You did an awesom job by the way, i suppose your car is a lot less noisier now, and have really soft and bouncy carpet
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Eden Prairie, MN, USA
Re: (bobobob)
Yes it's definitely much quieter. Noticeably less noise coming from the road/tires, and I don't have to crank up the music like I used to. If you have the means to go with Damplifier Pro, it would be even better. I might go ahead and buy a couple gallons of Spectrum sludge to spray my tire wells next.
Good luck on your project
Good luck on your project
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Doylestown, PA, USA
Re: (Rendition)
best bet, buy some stuff and have a cookout/ honda-tech workday at your house, tell ppl on here your give them beer and food to help you dynamat your car.
It worked for me, it took 10 guys half a day.
Andrew
It worked for me, it took 10 guys half a day.
Andrew
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 0
From: Nowhere Cali, Ca, USA
Re: (digdug18)
i did a budget sound deadening on my chevy s10.
i used peel and seal from lowes. it is .20mil think and the same as any other tar based sound deadener.
i used 2 layers everywhere and did the whole truck. doors, floor, rear wall, everything but the roof.
what a difference it made. i get almost 0 road noise and i can crank the stereo up and you cannot hear it on the outside of the car, even when the bass hits.
at $14 per roll its the way to go.
the only draw back, the smell for the first few weeks, smells like tar
i used peel and seal from lowes. it is .20mil think and the same as any other tar based sound deadener.
i used 2 layers everywhere and did the whole truck. doors, floor, rear wall, everything but the roof.
what a difference it made. i get almost 0 road noise and i can crank the stereo up and you cannot hear it on the outside of the car, even when the bass hits.
at $14 per roll its the way to go.
the only draw back, the smell for the first few weeks, smells like tar
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