my car has a D16Z6 with a p28 ecu and i am not too sure what problem it was. When i start the car, it idle a 2k rpm and it come down to 1k. but sometimes it will surge to 2k again, or jump and and down continuely. when i drive it with 1st gear, it runs fine, when i am in the second gear, it runs chocking if the rpm is below 3k....after 3k rpm, it runs beautifully. i really dont know what problem it is, i just replace a new oxygen sensor but it still throws check engine light with oxygen sensor.

please help, i appreciated for your input.

thanks

 

Have you checked what you CEL is?

 

it is oxygen sensor, although i already replaced it (4 wires). i think i might need to rewire the ecu wires.

 

Well choking ight be caused by a faulty TPS sensor or FPR or even ignition components such as wire plugs etc. Did you do a swap or something since you talking about re wiring ecu?

 

but it only choke in between 2k and 3k rpm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RiversideS13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but it only choke in between 2k and 3k rpm</TD></TR></TABLE> Trust me **** is sometimes weird my car use to do same kind o does still but im looking into it!! What are your engine specs and mods!! List them to see if we can help you better

 

thanks,

the D16Z6 only has DC header and straight pipe. and msd 8.5mm ignition wires. at first i found it is missing pcv valve but it only improve a bit after i install a set of pcv valve and vacuum line. also, all of the pollution control device had gone.

 

OK if im not mistaken the Dc header does not come with a hole to plug the 02 sensor on it ! Am i correct? Also that would kind of maybe make it choke! Have you tried maybe cleaning you Map sensor a little see if it helps. I the order of your spark plug wires correct? Maybe you switched one and it misfires! Does your car take a little long to turn on or does it start right up fast? Also is this your stock motor or did you swap?

 

i got the car as is, really dont know whats going on with the car.

the dc header has two oxygen sensor holes. one on the exhaust manifold (pluged with sensor) and another one was bocked with a bolt

ignition wires order, i really have no clue. can you tell me how to check it?

as for the map sensor, if it is malfunctioning.. it should throw a CEL code right?

when i turn it on, it fires right up.

i dont think this is a stock motor, i think the previous owner swapped it

THANKS

 

Well check your map clean the pintle a little that would probably help! i would help you in person but you live pretty far from L.A!

 

thanks for your kindly help. how do i clean the map sensor?

 

The pintle could be clean witha thin needle of some sort. Sometimes people state that it kind of gets clogged from carbon build up

 

i took out my spark plug, this is how it looks from the cylinder #1. is this the cause?

 

if the cel is on for oxygen sensor then you need to fix that.

cel for 02 sensors will usually cause the car to run like ****.

also, replace those shitty plugs and put some ngk v power's in.

 

it already has a new oxygen sensor, but 4 wires oxygen sensor. my guess is that it has an obdI system but it has OBDII harness, which caused the error? i read somewhere that i need to repin the ecu of oxygen sensor wires.

 

after a set of new NGK plugs and oil change, the idle has improve. except sometimes it has a dip in about every 10 second. the chock behavior still there, but gets better. this had lead me to think all of those are cause by running rich. possible my timing is off?

any input would be appreciated.

thanks

 

I have the exact problem in my stock 1997 EX coupe D16Y8 as described by RiversideS13 and have been chasing it for weeks.

So far I've replaced: spark plugs, wires, distributor, PCV, throttle body including TPS and MAP, speed sensor and thoroughly cleaned VTEC valve and IAC, checked timing, checked compression, checked coloring of spark plugs and look perfect, confirmed spark to each plug during acceleration, confirmed proper ignition advance, used scan tool - no codes, no problems with live data. the O2 sensor was replaced not too long ago, and again, it appears to be working fine. Just passed emissions with no problems.

I'm completely out of ideas and would love to know the answer to this one as well. Anyone know a free online resource for TSBs?

 

you have all of my symptoms ?

 

Yes. Your description of the symptoms was as if you were driving my car. The only difference is I don't get any check engine lights and there are no codes showing up at all on my scan tool. It seems that it gets worse the hotter it is outside. The other night, it was unseasonably cool and the symptoms got better, but did not go away. Today it was hot again and the problem was just as bad. Have you noticed this at all? It also seems slightly better if I drive the car before it's fully warmed up. Based on all I've read, and given all that I've replaced, I'm left thinking it's the idle air control module, or a dying crankshaft speed sensor. There seems to be many other people around the net with very similar symptoms, but no one seems to know the actual problem, just a bunch of guessing.

I know that typical electro-mechanical devices can behave differently at different termperatures simply because the internal resistance changes with temperature, which ultimately effects the output voltage the computer reads. This doesn't exactly tell us which sensor it is though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paradigm79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes. Your description of the symptoms was as if you were driving my car. The only difference is I don't get any check engine lights and there are no codes showing up at all on my scan tool. It seems that it gets worse the hotter it is outside. The other night, it was unseasonably cool and the symptoms got better, but did not go away. Today it was hot again and the problem was just as bad. Have you noticed this at all? It also seems slightly better if I drive the car before it's fully warmed up. Based on all I've read, and given all that I've replaced, I'm left thinking it's the idle air control module, or a dying crankshaft speed sensor. There seems to be many other people around the net with very similar symptoms, but no one seems to know the actual problem, just a bunch of guessing.

I know that typical electro-mechanical devices can behave differently at different termperatures simply because the internal resistance changes with temperature, which ultimately effects the output voltage the computer reads. This doesn't exactly tell us which sensor it is though.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


i have your exzact problem

i swapped iacv, wires, distributor, cleaned TB/im. checked for vaccum leaks, changed fpr, fuel filter. im stumped!

 

Aint tryin to thread jack, but my buddy has the same problem with his 91' dx hatch with jdm b20b swap.(dc sports 4-1 open header,aem CAI, stock ls pr4 ecu) The car chokes around 2-3k but after that it takes gas fine..also someone asked does your car take a min to start? thats our other problem...car spins over fine(starter just got rebuilt)but dosent start for about 5 seconds of straight turning over..hmm?? Anyways if we figure our problem out i will post on here what it was..and hopefully help ya out man..(our problem is fuel,or the open header, i think)

 

I've had no problem with the car starting, and once it warms up, it idles right where it should, but it does flucuate a bunch while still cold and trying to warm up. As the engine gets hot, or it's hot out, it has more trouble idling right and almost dies sometimes. A couple of obscure things I've read about, but no one has tried that I'm aware of, is swapping the ECU, apparently some of the ECUs made in the 90s had a higher failure rate due to some of the materials they were using in the electronics. The other thing to try is to change the crankshaft speed sensor as it effects the calculated load in the ECU, which can mess up fuel delivery. I guess it's possible the computer may have learned something that was already fixed sensor-wise but needs to be reset, I'm not sure about that though.

This link seems to support the crankshaft speed (position) sensor as the culprit, who's willing to go dig that thing out and replace it and let the rest of us know?

(yes I know this is not a honda, but it does have an asian engine!)
http://www.eliseparts.com/shop...d=485




Modified by paradigm79 at 5:20 PM 8/1/2007

 

My friend had a similar probelem he cleaned the thermostat and it went away for a while. A while = 2 weeks

 

I have a 97 ex coupe d16y8 with a Egay intake and an exhaust leak. im enduring the same probs right now. It does seem that it happens more often when its hotter outside. Today it cutt out alot but its 80 here in WA. I was thinking TPS but if you guys have ruled that out then i dunno.. I guess i'll just sit here and wait for someone to solve the riddle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigDeal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 97 ex coupe d16y8 with a Egay intake and an exhaust leak. im enduring the same probs right now. It does seem that it happens more often when its hotter outside. Today it cutt out alot but its 80 here in WA. I was thinking TPS but if you guys have ruled that out then i dunno.. I guess i'll just sit here and wait for someone to solve the riddle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a similar problem too.
today i measured my tps voltage and its off by +1 volt.
I will try to adjust mine this weekend and see if this helps


http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/tps