It cranks and cranks but will only start when you turn the key back to off. I had the msd coil, dizzy and ignitor and it did it and them I changed back to the stock dizzy and its still the same. plugs and wires also.

I did put the battery in the trunk. I was only getting 7.5v at the ing system. MSD told me I needed at least 10v when cranking (not cranking its 12.8ish. That was with a 4guage to the front and a small piece it the back. I then ran a additional dedicated 4 guage positive and a 4 guage ground to the starter. I then got around 10.0v while cranking. Is that normal to have a drop like that?

I just took the car to get tunned, and the tunner thiks its not the tune. What you think.

Its a 94 teg, turbo, 1000cc, 3.5bar aem, tunned with crome

 

If I understand you correctly, the engine will start only when letting go of the key after having it turned to crank?
If this is the case, you have a bad ignition switch. You can test for voltage at the Blk/Yel wire in the connector at the distributor. Check during cranking and see if you have power, if you don't your ignition switch is the problem. (this is common of older/failing ignition switches.)

Now, if you mean that you have to turn the key all the way off then try starting it again to get it to start, then you most likely have a fuel problem. (intermitant problem with main relay contacts. Do you hear the fuel pump prime everytime you turn on the key before trying to start the engine?)


NOW...

It is very possible that your voltage drop is to great and is causing the problem.
A voltage drop of 2.8+ volts is quite a bit! (how did you atach the cables at their ends?)
Just for grins, set the battery on the ground near the original battery posts and use a good set of jumper cables then try starting it again. If it starts, you found your problem.
(Just curious, why did you move the battery to the trunk on a FWD car to begin with? Domestics move the battery to the trunk to get the weight over the rear wheels for improving traction, Doing so on a FWD car just adds even more traction problems!)





Modified by Mochanic at 11:47 PM 7/21/2007

 

I agree with a possible failure of the ignition switch. I have also dealt with this problem many times.

 

All the connections are clean and tight.

If I meter the voltage going into the ing switch and the voltage coming out will that tell me if its bad? If its bad there will be a voltage drop on the load side of the switch right?

 

The problem that occurs with the ignition switches are internal, not at the connectors.
With the ignition all the way to start position check for power on the blk/yel wire either at the switch or at the distributor connector.
(no need to push in the clutch if its a manual)
If the switch is bad you will not get anything on the blk/yel wire in the start position, but will in the run position, and therefore is the reason it starts when you let go of the key. (the motor is still turning over just enough to start when the power to the coil arrives.)

Try that and let us know

 

ok, I checked the big blk/yellow at the distributor. I got 12.3 with the ket on while cranking it dropped to about 10.0. I still got voltage while cranking but a 2.3v drop. Is that normal?

 

well that means your ignition switch is fine.
a 2.3v drop is fairly significant, although the starter does use quite a bit of juice to operate. i would have to do some voltage drop tests myself to confirm how much the starter actually uses, i am pretty sure that that is still a bit to much.

did you try setting the battery closer to the original terminals and using jumper cables? this will at least tell you if its the wiring and length thats causing your huge voltage drop.

is this a high compression motor? starter good?

 

I moved the battery to the front and it still has a 2.0v drop. low comp motor. I am not sure on the starter. I have another one I will try tomarrow. It is still starting with the key switching off from crank. I am wondering if it couild be my tune! I paid $500 to get my car tuned and I cant even drive it. I am soo pissed off right now........

 

its not possible for a car to actually run with the key in the off position unless you have other electrical issues that give power to the main relay and ignition. so again i assume you mean the key is in the run position, like as in after to try starting it and you let go of the key not actually turning it back off.

this is why i said the ignition switch. if the switch is bad, you will not have power in start, but will in run. if you tested this properly then i guess this is not the problem.

are you 100% sure the battery is fine? have you tried this with a battery charger is start mode?

 

did you keep all your engine to chassis ground wires after moving the battery to the trunk?

is your fuel pump on while you are cranking?


Modified by 2point2 at 9:53 PM 7/24/2007

 

he said even even added more, so i assumed he did.

 

The fuel pump is on while cranking, With it off its still has the voltage drop. I removed the starter ground and replaced it with a piece of 4 guage wire. And I have a piece of 8 guage ground going from the rad support to the valve cover. Even in the wiring harnes there is a few ground loops to attach to the block I checked them as well. The battery is fairly new, its 535 cold cranking amps.

tonight after work I am going to try a different battery and starter.

I am sorry you are right about the key position its not in the off position. Last night while I was trying to figure this out I fouled out a set of plugs. And I even turned the fuel pump off the whole time I was testing voltage. They went when trying to actually start the thing.

No test and tune for me tonight at the track.

 

Sry to revive an ancient post but having the same issue. Did you ever figure this out?