I have a D15Z1 in my EG hatch i just bought.. Thing is.. Its running like ****.. It Rev Limits at like 5k-5.5k sometimes.. And starts pretty hard sometimes.. and when just crusing at 4k-5k RPM it seems like lts sputtering.. not bad but u can notice.. I checked the ECU and its a P06 and looked and for a D15Z1 its suppose to have a P08.. thing is vtec comes on.. when driving with the P06.. there is no RPM box or anything.. can someone tell me why this motor is running like ****? (everything is stock)


Hmm I just looked at the head..

P07-1 Head and a D15Z1 Block with a P06 ECU... Wtf is this thing?

 

well its a vtec-e motor, it doesnt have real vtec, so basicaly your running the motor to the rev limiter minues 4 valves, getthe right ecu.

 

Which ECU do you suggest since its a P07-1 Head and D15Z1 BottomEnd...

 

ttt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2Fast4Everyone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which ECU do you suggest since its a P07-1 Head and D15Z1 BottomEnd... </TD></TR></TABLE>

for future reference, the ecu code matches the head. and since that head belongs to that block get a p07

 

get the right ecu. it doesn't use a p08 ecu, that's d15b vtec.


d15z1 = p07

 

p07 is correct ECU.

Ill trade you mine for a p28

PM me if your interested, I'll sell it once I get a p28.

 

Correction.. I do got a P07 in it.. But why when sitting I hold it at like 3k RPM and it will sputter and it also REV limits at like 5.5k RPM.. and feels like there is NO POWER.. the car sounds like its running on 3 cyls.. i checked spark and am getting spark to all 4 cyls.. Any one have any ideas..

 

clogged fuel filter maybe. any CEL's?

 

Um thats another funny thing.. When I drive the check engine light comes on.. but once I try to check it (jumper) the CEL light will just stay on.. constant yellow.. then i turn off the car then turn to on postion.. and it shows no check engine light (light just stays yellow).. I start it without jumper and nothing no CELs... then i go drive it and BOOM comes back on.. turn car off and its gone again.. wtf is this.. Im thinking fuel filter or pump...

 

ttt

 

mine does it time to time i have it in a 88 crx si and it got the si trans and the si ecu and the intake if u take it to red line it will start acting up so i just stop at 5-6k what ecu would be good for it then the si and would it get better gas milage

 

Anyone else? opinions...

 

Your redline should be @ 6200.

 

pos a bad ecu?

check your timing
check plugs


etc

just guessing here

my z1 does not have this problem unless not tuned up

 

Check to make sure all your fuel injectors are functional. Inspect the wires to ensure you don't have a break. Put a screwdriver to each of the injectors and see if you can hear them click on and off. Also perform a resistance test across the injector itself and see what it is. It should be around 12 Ohms, if it is less than this, the windings are touching, and will need to be replaced. You can also do the plug wire test. Unplug the spark plug wires one at a time from the plugs for a second with the car on, only a few inches off the plug, and see if the engine speed changes, then quickly put it back on. If you pull one out and the engine speed doesn't change, you found the problem.

 

It starts to break up at 3.5k RPM how do i get the clips off the injectors to see?

 

ttt

 

Take a pin and pull back the corners of the metal clip and pull on the plug, it can take some patience if you don't have anything that can grab that metal clip.

 

how's the distributor? breaking up at 3k, occasional hard starts and low rev limiter sounds a lot like coil or ignitor problems to me.
how many miles are on it? (~120k?)

as far as the CEL, it sounds like you're not jumpering the correct point, there is a fuse that's blown in the under hood fuse box, or the ECU is toast.
what are the numbers and letters on the side of the ECU? It should begin with 37820-???-???

it's been a while since I pulled injector plugs, but I thought you just squeeze on the metal wire/clip and the ends pop out so you can unplug it easily.