going from jdm to usdm intake manifold are all the plugs and everything the same? from the map sensor on the firewall to the throttlebody?all the lines?i see there is 2 coolant lines on the jdm and only 1 on the usdm.do i just switch over the cover on the iacv?thanks for the help

 

 

I have a hard time understanding what exactly you're asking??

Is that your car in the pic? If it is, u have other things to worry about as far as passing ref goes. I see no heatshield on the header, the valve cover breather is a no-no and im sure there are others.

As far as the intake manifold goes, make it look exactly like mine did (note the 92-95 civic purge solenoid mounting on the backside):

One more pic and some info can be found on my old for sale thread here: http://www.hondamarketplace.co...80827

 

no that's not my car, i just gota p30ntake manifold in and iam gona istall it this weekend, is there anything i should know before hand?is it just a direct swap?also do i have to use the blue conector on the passenger side for the checking the ecu codes?thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vw eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no that's not my car, i just gota p30ntake manifold in and iam gona istall it this weekend, is there anything i should know before hand?is it just a direct swap?also do i have to use the blue conector on the passenger side for the checking the ecu codes?thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh ok. You will need the purge solenoid as well. Everything is a direct bolt on. Are u using a usdm p30 manifold or a jdm one?

Yes you will need the blue connector on the passenger side for checking the codes. You may also need the "data link" 3 pin connector thats next to it on obd-1 Hondas. It all depends on what ref u go to and how picky they are.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes you will need the blue connector on the passenger side for checking the codes. You may also need the "data link" 3 pin connector thats next to it on obd-1 Hondas. It all depends on what ref u go to and how picky they are. </TD></TR></TABLE>

where does the data link go?any pic's? i have a p30 manifold that iam gona switch over tomorrow, made my appt. today for the ref.so the lil blue connector on the passenger side is for the ecu codes correct?the 2 wires from the harness have to get spliced in there correct? thanks

 

Yup, just splice the "check engine" light wires to the blue connector.

 

ok , got that done what does the dlc look like?it somes in every civic from 92-95?

 

bump...have to pass the ref in a couple weeks

 

ok i got the new intake manifold on there, only think i had aproblem with was the evap purge solenoid the conector for the one on the fire wall is a different conector.how do i make it work?go get a conector at a junk yard?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vw eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i got the new intake manifold on there, only think i had aproblem with was the evap purge solenoid the conector for the one on the fire wall is a different conector.how do i make it work?go get a conector at a junk yard?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Connector is different but its the same round plug used for the IAT sensor and ECT sensor. If u have a spare harness laying around u can rob one from that or just go to the junk yard. Remember, a lot of Honda plugs are the same, just look at some of the sensors in the engine bay and you'll see.

 

ok cool thanks nex time iam at the junk yard i will look for the sensor, i went today and was able to grab a conector for the 02 sensor and the green cap on the passenger side that holds the 2 conectors, the 2 pin conector and the 3 pin conector i knoe the 2 pin conector gets hooked up to the 2 from the conversion harness like mentioned above, but where do the wires for the 3 pin conector go? the colors are black w/red stripe, white w/red stripe and light blue

 

The P30 manifold rocks! I've seen it make more power than any other oem or aftermarket intake manifold for the b series engines.
The only thing to step it up further would be to have it sent out to extrudehone for another 4hp to the wheels.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deetz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The P30 manifold rocks! I've seen it make more power than any other oem or aftermarket intake manifold for the b series engines.
The only thing to step it up further would be to have it sent out to extrudehone for another 4hp to the wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would really like to see that link. like really

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89s1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would really like to see that link. like really</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't know why so many people find it hard to beleive. Since you live in Calgary, i have like 8 dyno's i can show you in person, a couple of them even on a B20 vtec.

The P30 is simply one of the best designed intake manifolds for a pr3 head, period!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89s1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would really like to see that link. like really</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ehh, it sounds like he's been reading that gay *** Honda performance handbook, LOL. No set up is the same as the next so there is no 1-for-all manifold. BTW, this thread has ZERO to do with the performance aspect of the P30.

 

you didnt have to get another manifold you could of tapped it.. in the back and used that...umm you reffing huh? just pasted about month ago love it..let me know if you have ideal problems with its cold with the UDSM P30...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx-b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didnt have to get another manifold you could of tapped it.. in the back and used that...umm you reffing huh? just pasted about month ago love it..let me know if you have ideal problems with its cold with the UDSM P30...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could of used what? A first gen manifold? Thats not his car in the first pic, just a pic for reference to show a P30 manifold. I dont recall any cold idle problems on my rex when i had a P30 on it. What kind of problems are u experiencing?

 

well it would idl wierd until it was above C and then it would stop but ya you could use your stock first gen manifold just have to tap the back of the manfild you see a little circle on the back of it friend did it and they pasted it...well I gtg hit me up on aim later if you need anything else Aim Paulwall530

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx-b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well it would idl wierd until it was above C and then it would stop but ya you could use your stock first gen manifold just have to tap the back of the manfild you see a little circle on the back of it friend did it and they pasted it...well I gtg hit me up on aim later if you need anything else Aim Paulwall530</TD></TR></TABLE>

If u got away with using a first gen manifold at the REF, then u got straight lucky. Usually you wont pass visual with that specific manifold. I wouldnt recommend it to anyone to go and try that either, unless they have time to waste. Stick with the P30 and u cant go wrong.

Nah man, i dont need anything else, LMAO.

 

na the P30 is fine just saying if you know someone that ever does a reff it doesnt really matter on manifolds long as it has the obd1 thottal body and has the little air port in the back of it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx-b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">na the P30 is fine just saying if you know someone that ever does a reff it doesnt really matter on manifolds long as it has the obd1 thottal body and has the little air port in the back of it...</TD></TR></TABLE>


wrong... it does matter and the only way you passed was ether the guy thought you had a p30 or hes a dumbass. ether way you should have failed visual for just the manifold.but thats cool for you and congrats on that.


ok i have the manifold and that on there, but my car jerks in low throttle levels, is there a way to adjust the tps?its revited in there?can i drill it out and tap it?

thanks

 

does it jerk all the time or here and there?

 

You have hacksaw or dremel a slot on the top of the bolts that are on there in order to use a flat head screwdriver to loosen them. They arent rivets, although i can see how you would think that. On usdm throttle bodies they use special bolts that shear their heads off when tightened. They basically dont want you to tamper with them. From personal experience, try setting the tps anywhere from .25v to .35 v at idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx-b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it jerk all the time or here and there? </TD></TR></TABLE>

it jerks only at a low spot in the throttle, like when i go from a stop and barley give it gas, like 15% or something, it does it in every gear. i ahve a hondata set up thats not on there becuse of me trying to pass smog, can i throw it in there and check w/ the laptop and see what the tps volts and percentage?is that a good way to check it real quick? thanks for the help