well I just got done replacing my headgasket and got everything back together and fired it up open header and it wont rev past 3200 in nuetral, its also blowing a little smoke but I did accidently get a little oil down in a cylinder while oiling up the head before assembly so i dunno. I used arp head studs coating the studs up with the arp molly lube then torqueing them in the stock sequence to 25 ft lbs then to 70 lbs then backing them off and torqueing them down to 70 lb fts. Im using an oem 3 layer headgasket and it looks like it maybe leaking a little oil (honestly hard to tell) in the front left corner. Im about 100 % sure the t belt is on good but maybe the distro isnt set good enough? I also DID have the head milled to ensure its not warped.

so far heres a list of things ive compiled.

fouling plugs _ they are older

leaking headgasket - this would sure suck

distro - probably not I just set it in the middle when I reinstalled it.


I did search and any help would be appreciated guys, I plan to do a compression test tomorrow. thanks
Joey

 

recheck your connections...sounds like you crossed the iac and iat plugs.

 

just pulled the plugs and they are jet black when before I slapped them in they showed no signs of lean or right so I did mix up my vac. lines.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">recheck your connections...sounds like you crossed the iac and iat plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats iat is white iac is green correct, if so then they are right. With my mpfi swap the iat plug is barely long enough to make it so I always know. thanks though man, I appreciate any help that is reccomended.

 

so no codes right?

what car/ecu?

 

first gen b16a in a 88 crx with a pr3 ecu, no codes. I redid and cleaned a bunch of my mpfi wiring but its not missing or stuttering so I know my re wiring is good. It almost sounds kinda like a two step when it "stops" at 3200 as im sure you can guess.

edit.. I believe I may have heard it backfire a little, not positve on that.

 

no more suggestions on this ?

 

well its definetly a wiring problem bro..the ecu is setting the rev limit for a reason..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well its definetly a wiring problem bro..the ecu is setting the rev limit for a reason..</TD></TR></TABLE>


Well I went ahead and got the vaccum lines right ( I think ) and played with the distributor a little more and also pulled and regaped the plugs and she is now one good running sonuva bitch that sounds insane with an open header .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SomeDude56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Well I went ahead and got the vaccum lines right ( I think ) and played with the distributor a little more and also pulled and regaped the plugs and she is now one good running sonuva bitch that sounds insane with an open header .</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

u gota check engine light? prolly ur map sensor

 

as far as your oil leaking problem it can be a couple things....
check and see if you can spot any leaks out of the vtec solenoid and dizzy...wipe the head down real good and check it after you drive...if theres a leak its easier to pinpointwhere...it could be as simple as just replacing a rubber gasket...
if its in fact leaking between the head and block id want to find out if the mating surfaces are true...why did you eplace your old head gasket? maintenance or failure?if the engine severly overheats the block deck may warp...your head may be straight but if the block is not you might leak.
are you positive you installed the head gasket in the correct configuration?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as your oil leaking problem it can be a couple things....
check and see if you can spot any leaks out of the vtec solenoid and dizzy...wipe the head down real good and check it after you drive...if theres a leak its easier to pinpointwhere...it could be as simple as just replacing a rubber gasket...
if its in fact leaking between the head and block id want to find out if the mating surfaces are true...why did you eplace your old head gasket? maintenance or failure?if the engine severly overheats the block deck may warp...your head may be straight but if the block is not you might leak.
are you positive you installed the head gasket in the correct configuration?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well when I had the head milled I also had it cleaned so I dont see any oil streaks coming from the vtec selnoid or the cam seal, etc. I replaced the headgasket b.c the car did over heat pretty badly and the head was warped. Ive driven it 70 miles so far without one pipe from the temperature gauge so Ill go check it out again. I torqued the head down in the stock sequence to 70 ft lbs with arp headstuds. honestly I can handle a drop of oil coming out every once in a while as long as it runs good and doesnt overheat on me everytime I drive it. thanks