89si, but no rear discs....
A while back i thought all si's have rear disc brakes but when i bought mine i found out just the 90-91s do. What would it take to convert to disc, and is it worth it?
I had the chance to grab the calipers and rotors off of a parts car, but i thought maybe i needed the control arms too. Thanx again guys......
I had the chance to grab the calipers and rotors off of a parts car, but i thought maybe i needed the control arms too. Thanx again guys......
According to at least one source-you will need the entire brake setup for the rear. This includes the master cylinder and proportioning valve too. Getting the control arms with all of the parts is a plus as your existing arms have to have some work done to them (so I'm told). Is it worth the effort-the experts do not think so and are still very competitive with the drums as they only do a small portion of the braking. I'd like to have 4-wheel discs but cannot justify the expense in both time and $$$ for the minimal gain they provide.
you need the trailing arm assembly w/ebrake cables from a 90/91 rex. 90-93 integra's will work too, but do widen the rear track a bit. you don't need any of the other suspension pieces - either the lca or the compesator arm & using the integra parts would mess up your suspension. neither do you need a new master cylinder - i believe that std, dx, si - all of them use a 7/8 master cylinder. (only the 4dr 90/91 ex & the 90-93 integra use 15/16 master cylinders - it'd be nice to have, but then you'll also want to change your brake booster to a higher power unit of of the same vehicle.) as to the proportioning valve - i didn't bother to change mine & there hasn't been any negative side effects...
Eric
Eric
depends on what you consider easy. the first swap took me 3-4 hours or so. i can do them now in about 1 1/2-2 hrs, including bleeding the brakes. the hardest thing is getting at the e-brake cable retaining bolts, as the gas tank gets in the way. best thing to do is to partially drop the tank to get at the bolts.
as far as slotted/cross drilled, either will help the rotors dissapate heat during periods of heavy brake use, but cross drilled rotors are supposed to be more vulnerable to warping. i'd recommend slotted rotors if you're wanting to upgrade - but unless you're running autocross or turning laps, you're probably not stressing your stock rotors anyways...
Eric
as far as slotted/cross drilled, either will help the rotors dissapate heat during periods of heavy brake use, but cross drilled rotors are supposed to be more vulnerable to warping. i'd recommend slotted rotors if you're wanting to upgrade - but unless you're running autocross or turning laps, you're probably not stressing your stock rotors anyways...
Eric
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asianflava
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Dec 8, 2008 11:14 AM



