My friend's accord recently had the tranny die on it. We replaced it and everything went well. A week afterwards he finds brake fluid coming from his clutch master cylinder. We replaced it, and now we can't seem to get the slave cylinder (release cylinder, whatever you call it) won't budge at all. It's been bleed correctly and more then once without any gains.

Anyone got any input?

 

I got the solve:

I used a one man brake bleeding kit and ran thru about 600ml of fluid in a matter of second, a intense amount of air bubbles came out. Funny thing is we had already ran about 600ml doing it the old fashion way. I guess flash bleeding is better then standard method of bleeding. I'll always flash bleed from now on.

 

umm... can you explain "flash bleeding" cause I'm not sure what you are referring to.

Maybe I know what you are talking about but just not used to it being called that

 

Lemme guess... & sort of explain what's going on.

If you bleed the normal way you're pushing the air bubbles 'downhill' against their natural tendency to rise. If you take your time there's plenty of time for the air bubbles to work their way back 'uphill' towards the MC. If you're slow enough, you'll never get all the air out.

Theoretically there's 2 different ways to deal with this...

Bleed with a large flow rate to overwhelm the buoyancy of the air bubbles.

Bleed backwards. Fit a pressure-bleeder to the slave's bleed valve & push fluid 'uphill' so the air bubbles come out into the MC reservoir.

There's also another thing that I've noticed.
When bleeding, the pedal doesn't spring back up by itself. You have to pull it up. If you grab it with your toe & let it 'SNAP' up quickly, it's more likely to suck air in thru the MC piston shaft seal.

Better to loop a string around the pedal and pull it up SMOOTHLY while it's under control of your foot.