It doesn't idle unless you press a little on the gas and hold it.... it has a Brand New CTR High Comp. Pistons, Skunk2 Stage 2 cam , 2 degree adv. on timing gears, Skunk2 Intake Manifold, Type R TB, Head is flow ported and Skunk2 high com. valves, springs and retainers. I'm guessing compression is around 12.4:1? Running on a virgin p72. Oh yeah I took EVERYTHING apart, clean and torq. them, All Brand New gasket, seals, oring, you name it. So basically a BRAND NEW engine.

Is it my cam thats making it so it doesnt idle right?

What should my timing be at?

Is my IAC BAD?

Thanks

 

what size injectors and did you check your fuel pressure? Is the p72 stock or chipped? Also, take it in for a tune and get a new ecu map for your setup. I'm sure your problem will be fixed. Fresh built motors will benefit more from a dyno tune.

 

Running on Stock GSR injectors, fuel pressure @ 60 psi with the vacuum line disconnected. what fuel pressure should I be?

STOCK P72

took it out on the highway, pulls good but scare to rev it up since its all brand new. should I wait atleast 500 miles before hitting VTEC? i mean isn't there a break in period?

speaking of tuning, does anyone know any places in in Bay area (SF) that does dyno tuning and chip/mapping?

Let me know
Thanks

 

oh man, you need to get that tuned asap. if the build is good and all is done right, you should be able to tune on the dyno w/ no ill effects. after it's broken in fully, go back for a retune.

it's $ but it's well worth it if the tuner is good!

fuel pressure stock tops out at 47 psi with the hose off; up to 55 psi is ok. for you 60 psi shouldn't hurt it but man, at that compression i'd be wary about pinging, especially on that **** for fuel you guys have out there.

keep the fuel pressure where it's at, kick the ignition timing down to 6-8 btdc and check plugs a few times and then get to a dyno ASAP

 

speaking of timing, Skunk2 stage 2 cam spec said I have to adv 2 degree on intake and exhaust so i got adjustable cam gear and did it... should i turn it back to 0 degree on the cam gear? THAN set the timing to 6-8BTDC?

Thanks

 

the 6-8 btdc on the ignition side is just a recommendation to help prevent detonation during break-in.

with your setup, if they recommend the 2 degs adv, w/o my actually degreeing the cam, i'd run it their way until you tune.

your ignition timing will now be two degrees advanced, so if you are breaking in a new engine, reset the timing to 6-8 with an adjustable timing light.

if it's not super high compression or a stockish type engine and ISN'T a fresh build (i'm saying for others peeping this thread), and the timing was 16 degrees to start, then being at 18 will be fine until you tune because that is still within the factory spec of +/-2 from 16.

i mean, ideally, you can set it to 14 (earier of three marks on crank pulley) with the cams at zero to assure the settings are correct on the dizzy. then advance the cams 2 degs. that way you will be at 16 with the advanced cams

for you with your build, like i mentioned just put the cams at their suggestion and use a digital light to set it to 6-8.

but then you run into the problem of having such low ignition timing with that overlap, so it will still have a tough time idling! unfort getting into the map is necessary to get the idle sectors of timing and fueling set right.

it's hard dealing with this BS but in the end it'll be worth it



Modified by builthatch at 1:34 AM 7/17/2007

 

I see some peeps in the bay list redzone and dnr as good places for dyno tune. You need bigger injectors though.