Ive got a b18 in my ek coupe boosting. My question is ive kept the A/C but with all the turbo/downpipe/dump all right by the compressor and condensor i cant get it to work really. The high side pressure is up around 250-300 psi at idle. I was wondering if you guys out there have any tips or tricks to keep your A/C items cooled so you can actually use your A/C. The pressure builds so high at idle, when you stop and get ready to go again it bogs down the motor so barely moves until once you get moving starts back to normal power again. Right now i have the slim fans 10" that there selling in the market place mounted on front blowing into it. The factory fan still didnt keep it cool either. I was thinking of getting another slim to mount on back so would have a fan on both sides. Ive heat wrapped my downpipe and dumptube but still is to hot under there for the A/C. So let me know if you all have any ideas on what else to try and do to cool down the A/C.

 

i'd like to know as well.

 

yeah, I've had the same problems in the past....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostismycrack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, I've had the same problems in the past....</TD></TR></TABLE>

me too.

 

spray n20 or co2 on the condensor

 

wrap your downpipe, get a turbo cover (summit sells them) to keep the heat from your turbo from heating up everything

 

have you tried this? The downpipe is wrapped. I think the problem is the downpipe sits mm from the A/C compressor. So you all have similar problems. Bogs to almost impossible to start from a stop because A/C pressure is to high loading down motor? Someones got to have a fix for this. Otherwise whats the point of keeping A/C and i know alot of people still have it and still works.

 

I wrapped my manifold, turbo and downpipe, and it dropped the underhood temps considerably. I used to get terrible heat soak on my radiator and condenser and the water temp would start climbing and the a/c would stop working on the hwy. After wrapping no more heat soak and the a/c never stops working.

 

ya co2 would work awesome but run out fast and be pretty expensive after filling a bottle daily hahha. I guess im going to try heat blanketing the turbo, wrap dump tube, and try and figure a way to heat wrap compressor. Also get another slim fan, so one on each side of compressor. Also looks like you can get a heat blanket tube think for lines, so going to cover ac lines to. What you all think?
Best can do huh? Anyone ever made up a heat shield or something?

 

Definately good to know.

 

That is the reason I took my ac out in the first place. AC never get cold so I said what the hell and took it out.

 

i thought a slim fan was suppose to be mounted on the front of the ac condenser to begin with???? i thought that if u mounted a slim fan in the same location as the ac condenser fan the turbo and its components wouldnt fit????

what are you guys heat wrapping your downpipes and dumptubes with and where can i get ahold of some?????

 

im goinng to try another type of slim fan. I bought one of the 10 inch fans from the guys in the market place selling them for 50 bucks or whatever. There ok fans but dont push very well. Or might try switching it to pulling air, motor spins almost twice as fast seems like. Also getting a turbo blanket though there pricey for those little things!!!! Trying to figure out how to wrap a ram horn manifold, and after that out of ideas. Also going to fab one of the starter shields of summit for gms, and chevys to fit between compressor and downpipe since the 2 touch which cant be good. Last thing then to try is heat wrap tubes on the lines right there. ill let you all know how it works out within this week or two.

 

i dont know if this affected mine cause i wrapped all of my stuff rat the same time as the turbo, but i wrapped my a/c lines and my downpipe... my a/c still blows cold. Not freezing cold, but comfortable cold. Its too hot for it to be extremely cold... But it seems like it worked. I have an internal wastegate so no dumptube or anything... hope that helps.

 

What fan are you using for ur ac condensor???

Post some pics

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MeanGreenMachine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought a slim fan was suppose to be mounted on the front of the ac condenser to begin with???? i thought that if u mounted a slim fan in the same location as the ac condenser fan the turbo and its components wouldnt fit????
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are correct, and the switch has to be switched around if your running the stock switch and matching the colors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What fan are you using for ur ac condensor???

Post some pics </TD></TR></TABLE>

We use our slim fans, its a tight fit but do able.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by incubusboy87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tried this? The downpipe is wrapped. I think the problem is the downpipe sits mm from the A/C compressor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The a/c compressor is pretty warm to began with, I don't think thats the issue here. The issue is more that the turbo sits near the condenser and thats where the a/c refrigerant becomes colder.

So I would look more into the condenser area.

 

If you look at factory turbo cars, its not uncommon for them to wrap both the exhaust components AND the AC lines. You can get fiberglass sleeves with aluminum coating that reflects heat a lot, or just a mat that you can wrap around them parts that is the same thing. You could also get some special ceramic insulation from mcmaster.com - its rated at 1800F and is actually very cheap. With a single 1/2" layer on the turbo turbine, I can hold my hand on it indefinately (95F via infrared thermometer). Two other steps would be to get the same type of ceramic wrap from mcmaster.com instead of your fiberglass wrap, and getting the manifold/DP/turbine housing ceramic coated - thats known to drop surface temps down 200+ degrees, and reduce radiant heat (the real enemy) by 1/2 to 2/3!

 

hey what kinds of stuff you talking about on mcmaster.com? Im having trouble finding wrap on there. Could you post or send me a link to incubusboy87@sbcglobal.net if you would. Ya im use your slim fan same thing but 10" on the front. What you mean about changing the switch how do you do that? Will that make it blow harder pushing than pulling?

 

This is what Im worried about for when I go turbocharged!!!

 

Couldn't you move the AC condenser? Get an AC shop to relocate it and run new lines to it.

 

ya guess you could do that to. Dont know of any A/C shops around here that would do that type of stuff though. Also not sure where you would move it to either. Guess you could mount it behind the radiator, but im sure it would still stay pretty hot over on that side also.

 

are you guys buying the pre-made turbo blankets or just buying sheets of the mat insulator? Also how would you go about wrapping a ram horn manifold. Just with 1" heat wrap? Also what would you all suggest to wrap the A/C lines with? Just order mat insulator and cut and wrap?

 

moving your condenser behind your rad is not a good idea. You will have very poor air flow across the condenser and any air that is getting to it is already heated from the rad. Also refrigerant condenses around 100 F, if your engine bay is above that temp you will not reject heat. The condition of your condenser will impact how well you cool as well.

 

I used 1" and 2" inch header wrap that I got from a local speed shop, but you can buy it at summit racing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> getting the manifold/DP/turbine housing ceramic coated - thats known to drop surface temps down 200+ degrees, and reduce radiant heat (the real enemy) by 1/2 to 2/3!</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much does usually cost? This would involve a powder coating process right?