Alternator replacement, no master cylinder, no half shaft removals
I had to replace the alternator in my 91 Civic Wagon. In checking here, I found a number of posts which said that in order to remove the alternator from the car you had to either remove the master cylinder or the half shaft. I did not find it necessary to do either.
-You need to have the drivers side up in the air, on a jackstand.
-You need to disconnect the battery cable.
-You need to remove the bolts holding the alternator to the engine and adjustment bracket.
-You need to disconnect the wiring connections to the Alternator.
-You then need to remove the lower mounting bracket for the alternator, from the block. It's 2 bolts.
Once the brackets removed, you can rotate the alternator so that the shaft is pointing towards the wheel and it will come out between the half shaft and the frame. Replacement is the same process, in reverse.
-You need to have the drivers side up in the air, on a jackstand.
-You need to disconnect the battery cable.
-You need to remove the bolts holding the alternator to the engine and adjustment bracket.
-You need to disconnect the wiring connections to the Alternator.
-You then need to remove the lower mounting bracket for the alternator, from the block. It's 2 bolts.
Once the brackets removed, you can rotate the alternator so that the shaft is pointing towards the wheel and it will come out between the half shaft and the frame. Replacement is the same process, in reverse.
i just removed mine under the intake manifold not taking anything off but the alternator bracket..took me 20 minutes
Yea that may work but in cases like mine where the alternator bracket bolts refuse to budge i had to find another way. Once i figured it out i was able get it out in about 15-20mins.
i had to take off the brake booster vaccum line and pull out its metal port from the intake manifold itself. then remove the little white connector next to it and pull that sensor out of the intake manifold as well. then the few places where the wiring harness was bolted to the frame by the top of the strut had to unbolt those and push outa the way. from there i unbolted both bolts holding the brake booster on and pulled it off and moved it over just enough to make some room. from there i unbolted the alternator on the top and moved that bracket outa the way, and then unbolted the bottom. from there i finaggled it up through the little bit of space i was able to make myself and voila lol
i had to take off the brake booster vaccum line and pull out its metal port from the intake manifold itself. then remove the little white connector next to it and pull that sensor out of the intake manifold as well. then the few places where the wiring harness was bolted to the frame by the top of the strut had to unbolt those and push outa the way. from there i unbolted both bolts holding the brake booster on and pulled it off and moved it over just enough to make some room. from there i unbolted the alternator on the top and moved that bracket outa the way, and then unbolted the bottom. from there i finaggled it up through the little bit of space i was able to make myself and voila lol
im sure it woulda been easier to do if i could get the alternator bracket bolts off but nothing i had was taking em off. they started getting rounded off and there was no way to get good leverage on those bolts so i had to improvise lol
I like the master cylinder way myself. I don't have much choice in a swapped EF hatch though. have seen the alt bracket bolts get pretty stuck and not want to come out on some motors. But its one of those things that everyone has their own prefered way of doing it.
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