Hey guys I was driving my car for a while now and it burned alot of oil so I would do an oil change almost every 1000 miles...Its a 2000 gsr motor with around 80K on it. People said I had bad rings but I never went about changing them. So as i was driving my car it lost horse power and seem too not accelarate good. I drove it home and it kept doing the same even idling badly. I checked the compression and it read 120, 20, 130, 170... I put come oil into the cylinder and same thing. Anyone know what might cause this problem and how to go about fixing it, thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Madrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys I was driving my car for a while now and it burned alot of oil so I would do an oil change almost every 1000 miles...Its a 2000 gsr motor with around 80K on it. People said I had bad rings but I never went about changing them. So as i was driving my car it lost horse power and seem too not accelarate good. I drove it home and it kept doing the same even idling badly. I checked the compression and it read 120, 20, 130, 170... I put come oil into the cylinder and same thing. Anyone know what might cause this problem and how to go about fixing it, thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

IM going to say you need new piston rings although I have never seen it that low without bigger problems. I bet it runs like ****.

good luck!

 

Yeah it does run like crap, you say bigger problems like what may I ask? Please any help would be great

 

How much oil did it use? The only other thing that would cause it to have really low or no compression at all is if your valves are messed up. (ie not allowing the valve to seat properly against the head and letting the mix escape)

If It used a quart of oil ever 1k miles Its probably bad rings (or no rings in that one case)

 

Thanks man, I am actually in the process of pulling out the motor just the axel and the rear mount need to be pulled and she is ready, I just hop it dosent cost me a fortune otherwise the shell and all the hard work are up for sale. I had a feeling the piston rings were junk but who knows what else. Do you recommend I take it to a machine shop to get the block tested?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Madrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks man, I am actually in the process of pulling out the motor just the axel and the rear mount need to be pulled and she is ready, I just hop it dosent cost me a fortune otherwise the shell and all the hard work are up for sale. I had a feeling the piston rings were junk but who knows what else. Do you recommend I take it to a machine shop to get the block tested?</TD></TR></TABLE>

So long as the bock doesnt have to much use on it all you should have to do is hone the cylinder walls.

New rings are cheap d while your at it adjust the valve lash and put a new timint belt/water pump on.

 

do the oil stem seals while the heads off too as they can use the car to use oil as they get older...kinda two birds with one stone

 

thanks guys

 

So many problems on such a young engine. I've seen d16's with over 400K still running strong. Do B's EVER make it in these high numbers? Guessing since everyone beats on them they always end up with a hole in the block before it gets to full wear out.

 

motor is almost out just need a chain and pulling it out today. I will keep you guys posted once the motor is ripped apart. I also noticed black grimmy build up once I took the header off ;(

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Madrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">motor is almost out just need a chain and pulling it out today. I will keep you guys posted once the motor is ripped apart. I also noticed black grimmy build up once I took the header off ;(</TD></TR></TABLE>

rings HAVE to be bad... you have oil leaking into the header

 

look inside your ports if you have oil build up on your valves, that looks like it came from the Head then its the Valve seals as well, i would advise a leak down test, then full rebuild just make sure that you call a good machine shop in case you have any questions on tolerances and ring gaps

 

Could be both rings and valve seals. But if i had to choose one i'd have to say valve seals. Usually the rule of thumb for compression checks are if the compression is low and you add oil to the cylinder, and it is still low, valve seals... and if the compression jumps after the added oil, piston rings. I'd just do an general overhaul since the motor is being yanked. Might as well...

 

thanks guys I hope the problem is not too bad. But aside that since this is my first engine removal where do I secure the chains. I want to make sure i do it right thanks

 

Also what would it run me to do a leak down test and raplace valve seal and piston rings, hoping its just that ;/

 

Yep, my b16 was fine with 130,000 miles and I'd beat on it all day, then one day I put a turbo on it and now I'm on the third round.

 

Motor is out... and the process of taking the head off to see whats wrong with it will be tomorrow if anyone cares to see what is going on I can post picks, thought Id share will keep everyone posted once I find the problem...Seeing this very low of compression I would be curious myself to see what caused it..

 

yea get the pics up dude

 

alright will do, all I have is pictures of the hatch and the motor out...Will snap pics of the motor being ripped apart tomorrow getting some rest before a night shift...later guys

 

Hey guys,
A quick update after I took off the gsr head...When I took it off I put some gas in each cylinder to see if it will leak out and which of course like I hoped non did so I am guessing the piston rings are good?

Next, the top of the head looked fine. I flipped it over and looked at the valve stems and OHH NOO...Dun Dun Dun...The cylinder in which I was getting such low compression...the valve steams, well two of them, one was burned very badly and the other right next to it was cracked and you can see a hole in it...

Now I am taking the head to a machine shop to get it all tested and stuff then I guess I am going to buy new valve stems...Should I replace them all of just the two?

Any input or anything you guys think I should do while the head and stuff is off would be great...

Thanks, sorry no pics as promised but I need sleep I work nights and I work on my car once I get out at 8am and its now 3pm...Time for bed...

 

good its not the piston rings lol

erm if you can replace all do it but if your short just do 2

 

Do a rebuild with ITR pistons.

 

make sure they are jdm itr!

 

and this is why you do all tests and diagnoses before completely pulling the motor. if a leakdown test was done while the motor was still in the car, you would have found out that the head was the culprit, and just had to pull that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Madrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Now I am taking the head to a machine shop to get it all tested and stuff then I guess I am going to buy new valve stems...Should I replace them all of just the two?

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when you take the head in, replace ALL the valve stem seals as well as the junked valves. if you can pocket it, and if there is a need, replace all valves as well as a 3-angle valve job while you are at it. any headwork you can afford since its already off.

and i'm saying a lot of it because its not my money but seriously, if you can afford it, start back with a completely fresh rebuilt head.

 

if u have another car go ahead and build it. agreed valves, valve stems and possibly springs/retainers. Throw some after market pistons with 81.5 bore and ur set maybe shotpeen ur rods too. U shouldnt have nething to worry about, at least if u break it in for about 1500 miles to make sure everything seals correctly