GSR swap, no v-tec and no codes?
Hey everyone. I got my gsr swaped crx ruinning good but I took it out and I have no v-tec. The car feals like a normal car, it will redline but I never feel a change in power or hear the sound of the v-tec kick in. I was throwing a code 22 for v-tec pressure switch ( because I did not have one) I added the switch and the code went away but I still have no v-tec.
The car is a 1990 crx si. Freshly built obd2 gsr running obd1. Locash ecu jumper and engine subharness, rywire moded engine harness, rywire dizzy, rywire chiped p06 ( the same program he ran in his gsr).
I jumped the v-tec solonid to the + side of my battery and it clicks. Since I am not getting any codes should I assume it is something mechanical and pull my valve cover? This was my first full enginme build but I know I put everything back right.
Thanks,
-Chris
The car is a 1990 crx si. Freshly built obd2 gsr running obd1. Locash ecu jumper and engine subharness, rywire moded engine harness, rywire dizzy, rywire chiped p06 ( the same program he ran in his gsr).
I jumped the v-tec solonid to the + side of my battery and it clicks. Since I am not getting any codes should I assume it is something mechanical and pull my valve cover? This was my first full enginme build but I know I put everything back right.
Thanks,
-Chris
Engine is at full opp tempiture in open loop. I do not have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I have all brand new honda bearings and oil pump. It has plenty of oil pressure. If I was lacking oil pressue I would throw a code 22 and I am not. The motor runs perfect and sounds great. I just have no v-tec.
Thanks,
-Chris
Thanks,
-Chris
u need to check the solinoid for power when rpm is right with a test light
make sure you have all you wires tightly connected and on some ob1 jumpers you have to repin on the ecu side is your pressure switch grounded and other wire connected at ecu side
make sure you have all you wires tightly connected and on some ob1 jumpers you have to repin on the ecu side is your pressure switch grounded and other wire connected at ecu side
You can not test with a test light because v-tec will not come on inless you are going a certain MPH,in other words the car has to be moving. If I had something not pinned or un hooked I would throw a code. I have no codes at all!
haha LOL
i'm not laughing at you I'm laughing because I'm on the same boat...
EF HB SI gsr swp obd conversion no vtec...
CEL showing as knock sensor...
driving it feels like a heavy ZC lol ...
best of luck.
i'm not laughing at you I'm laughing because I'm on the same boat...
EF HB SI gsr swp obd conversion no vtec...
CEL showing as knock sensor...
driving it feels like a heavy ZC lol ...
best of luck.
you can check if the solenoid comes on by running a small led light tapped into the hot wire on the pressure switch and ground the other wire. Have the light run into the car so you can see it light up when VTEC is supposed to kick in while driving.
I did this with an old Clifford alarm led to check my VTEC way back when and just kept the led in one of my A-pillar gauge pod holders. Ghetto VTEC light
Also not to insult you but check your oil level. 1 quart low on oil can cause VTEC not to kick in some cases.
I did this with an old Clifford alarm led to check my VTEC way back when and just kept the led in one of my A-pillar gauge pod holders. Ghetto VTEC light
Also not to insult you but check your oil level. 1 quart low on oil can cause VTEC not to kick in some cases.
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Apex, like I said, if I was low on oil I would throw a code 22 for the v-tec pressure switch. My oil is full.
That is a good idea about the tes light in the car wile driving. Im going to wire a switch to the v-tec solenoid tomorrow and take it around the block and see if I can get it to work manually. If it works then I have an electrical problem, if it does not work, something mechanically in the head is not right. I will let you guys know what happens.
-Chris
That is a good idea about the tes light in the car wile driving. Im going to wire a switch to the v-tec solenoid tomorrow and take it around the block and see if I can get it to work manually. If it works then I have an electrical problem, if it does not work, something mechanically in the head is not right. I will let you guys know what happens.
-Chris
i am just curious will the motor go all the way to redline if vtec doesnt kick in because i thought that vtec is partly what allows the motors to rev so high.
Just Curious
Just Curious
I did not actually redline it, I brought it up to 8,000. But It will rev past 5500 without the v-tec.
HondaPartsHero thank you, a few of those steps only apply if you have a cell 21 or 22 but I will go over everything again acording to that guide.
-Chris
Modified by white90rexsi at 4:59 AM 7/12/2007
HondaPartsHero thank you, a few of those steps only apply if you have a cell 21 or 22 but I will go over everything again acording to that guide.
-Chris
Modified by white90rexsi at 4:59 AM 7/12/2007
Tonight I took apart the v-tec selonoid and everything is fine. To bypass everything and rule out everything I ran 1 wire from my v-tec selonoid and 1 + wire into the car. When I got up to 5500 rpm I had my girlfriend touch the wire together and nothing happend at all. Im going to pull my valve cover tomorrow to make sure everything in the head is how it should be. Im wondering if i am indeed low on oil pressure? All I can think is maybe my pickup tube screen is full of assembly lube? The motor runs really good with no knocking or oil pressure light. Im going pull the valve cover, if I dont see anything im going to drop the pan and look at the pickup.
-Chris
Modified by white90rexsi at 5:19 AM 7/13/2007
-Chris
Modified by white90rexsi at 5:19 AM 7/13/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't test VTEC by just reving it. you need to be driving. </TD></TR></TABLE> Correct
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickid03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you jump the vtec solenoid even in neutral it will still hit vtec...just without the proper fuel and ignition maps...BUMP...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you kidding me? Do you even know how vtec works?... Because I dont think you do...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can check if the solenoid comes on by running a small led light tapped into the hot wire on the pressure switch and ground the other wire. Have the light run into the car so you can see it light up when VTEC is supposed to kick in while driving.
I did this with an old Clifford alarm led to check my VTEC way back when and just kept the led in one of my A-pillar gauge pod holders. Ghetto VTEC light
Also not to insult you but check your oil level. 1 quart low on oil can cause VTEC not to kick in some cases.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree on this one also. Splice into the wire with the 1 wire off the solenoid and run that wire into the interior hook it up to a mini light, also ground it.
vtec works if 1)vvs works 2)oil pressure is right 3)rpm are working.
Question for you 90rex how long until you beated on the car? Also when are you going to do a valve job.. AND are you sure you did it right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickid03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you jump the vtec solenoid even in neutral it will still hit vtec...just without the proper fuel and ignition maps...BUMP...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you kidding me? Do you even know how vtec works?... Because I dont think you do...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can check if the solenoid comes on by running a small led light tapped into the hot wire on the pressure switch and ground the other wire. Have the light run into the car so you can see it light up when VTEC is supposed to kick in while driving.
I did this with an old Clifford alarm led to check my VTEC way back when and just kept the led in one of my A-pillar gauge pod holders. Ghetto VTEC light
Also not to insult you but check your oil level. 1 quart low on oil can cause VTEC not to kick in some cases.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree on this one also. Splice into the wire with the 1 wire off the solenoid and run that wire into the interior hook it up to a mini light, also ground it.
vtec works if 1)vvs works 2)oil pressure is right 3)rpm are working.
Question for you 90rex how long until you beated on the car? Also when are you going to do a valve job.. AND are you sure you did it right?
i thought vtec worked if. . . .
1 right operating temperature,oil pressure, and WOT
because i can let my car warm up romp it and hear vtec cross. . . . .how do ppl vtec in tunnels
lol
1 right operating temperature,oil pressure, and WOT
because i can let my car warm up romp it and hear vtec cross. . . . .how do ppl vtec in tunnels
lol
96 your right. But I can hit vtec when the motor is cold also. Since it's by vss, rpm, and oil pressure. When the motor is cold oil pressure is up so it works nice... Yes going into a long tunnel and hitting vtec is very nice
.
So is a rawr from my old rx7 :D gotta love rotarys also (I know its erevaliant) sp?
.So is a rawr from my old rx7 :D gotta love rotarys also (I know its erevaliant) sp?
I let the car get up to full opp. temp before I took it out. Are you asking if I did a valve job or adjusted the valves? I did both. I did a valve job when I rebuilt the motor. Re-surfaced the valves and ground the seats. I also did a valve adjustment before I started the motor and after break in. My neighbor works for acura and he told me you need 1.opp temp (car must be in open loop) 2. oil pressure 3.speed.
Also I never tested v-tec while in neutral, only while driving. Duh.
civickid03 came by my place last night and we found a few things. My oil was so thick from the assembly lube ( I have not even put a mile on the motor). So we flushed it with fresh oil and a honda filter and the car felt quicker. It feels like v-tec is coming on at 6500 rpm but the chip I got from rywire should be kicking in at 5500 according to ryan. The car is still slow and I think my fuel pressure is low. I do not have a gauge on it but I changed my fuel filter over the weekend and it was full of ****. Im going to drop my tank tonight and take a look at the fuel pump sock and ohms my pump while im at it.
-Chris
Also I never tested v-tec while in neutral, only while driving. Duh.
civickid03 came by my place last night and we found a few things. My oil was so thick from the assembly lube ( I have not even put a mile on the motor). So we flushed it with fresh oil and a honda filter and the car felt quicker. It feels like v-tec is coming on at 6500 rpm but the chip I got from rywire should be kicking in at 5500 according to ryan. The car is still slow and I think my fuel pressure is low. I do not have a gauge on it but I changed my fuel filter over the weekend and it was full of ****. Im going to drop my tank tonight and take a look at the fuel pump sock and ohms my pump while im at it.
-Chris
im having the same issue. Except im throwing a code 21 Vtec spool solenoid. I tested the solenoid and it works fine. i also have a bunch of assembly lube still in the motor. it has about 7 miles on it. Any update on yours and if it was caused by assembly lube?
I have been away on vacation, and I just moed up to Tech at VW, instead of getting off wotrk at 3:30 I get off after 5. I am going to do some work this weekend and post. How about your crx? any updates?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't test VTEC by just reving it. you need to be driving. </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, sig worty and its the truth
lol, sig worty and its the truth


