ok im having this issue and its not fun. just yesterday i broke my second oil pump and this one is only maybe 3 weeks old. i destroyed the first one. the motor is completely built and im running on my pump gas tune which is 450whp on 15psi 93octane reving to 8900. anyone have any idea why this keeps happing and what i can do. im running an obd2 oem oil pump on a 94 sleeved 2.0 gsr with an itr crank and pauter rods. i dont wanna throw another pump on and have it break again on me. any ideas will be awesome.

thanks

run down of the motor:
94 gsr benson sleeved block
itr crank
pauter rods
cp pistons
royal purple 20w50 oil (but the first oil pump when it went was on 10w40)
the head is all supertech and portflow
brand new water pump, tensioner, timing pump
stock oem crank pulley

 

First thing i would have looked for was an aftermarket crank pulley, seems to be a big factor with motors having trouble such as yours. Was the crank balanced, when the motor was assembled was the work area clean, debry can play a factor in failing pumps. It wasnt an OEM CTR pulley was it?

Just simple thoughts off the top of my head

 

you say this is the second pump that has failed....which part inside the pump failed? and did both of them do the same thing?

were the mains on the block line bored/honed after re-sleeving?

i have heard issues of boring/honing the mains incorrectly will cause oil pump rotor missalignment....

just suggestion.....

 

Also to, how old is the pulley? I noticed the other day my oem pulley was kinda walking..........not good....

Clutch aswell maybe causing it???
What type of clutch?

 

the bottoem end was all balanced. i watched teh pulley didnt look to be walking and seemed in good conidton adn its not a ctr pulley

the sleeves are going on 3 years. i blew a rod bearing a year ago and last year and this year completely new build, everyting cleaned and checked numerous times

clutch can really cause it? i have a pretty serious clutch its the clutchmasters sintered iron. but i have had this clutch since last years build and i didnt have this issue last year

 

Kevin, not that this would for surely fix it, but maybe you might try and switch to an ATI damper. Those clutches are pretty abusive and send some good vibrations down the line.

 

are they new oem pumps?

 

they are brand new pumps straight from honda.

it was only line bored once and the crank position was check.

mike you have pm .

 

You need to shim the oil pump if its been line bored.

 

but 2 other years an no problems. this is the first year im having this oil pump problems. its the fist year with an itr crank as well

shim the pump?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kevin, not that this would for surely fix it, but maybe you might try and switch to an ATI damper. Those clutches are pretty abusive and send some good vibrations down the line. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2! ATI or Fluidampr will most likely fix your problem.

 

what about the professional product damper? if i get a ati what style street or race?
the professional product damper is like 75 bucks my cost and the ATIs and fliudampr are like 350+ any info on all of them will be awesome

 

this is the damper i can get for 75 my cost through my work

http://www.fastpts.com/cgi-bin....html

 

Do they have a application for your motor? I dont see one listed on that website...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .nate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do they have a application for your motor? I dont see one listed on that website...</TD></TR></TABLE>
They have Honda applications. They're just not listed on that page, but they're in the catalogue.

 

ya they have it for my motor. any feedback on them? i mean its 75 compaired to almost 400.

 

they do make the race version for b series

http://www.strokerkits.com/honda___acura.htm

my cost street - 75
my cost race - 175


Modified by Mr HYDE at 3:01 PM 7/11/2007

 

what are the differences in street and race and whats better for a street driven 650hp car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr HYDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about the professional product damper? if i get a ati what style street or race?
the professional product damper is like 75 bucks my cost and the ATIs and fliudampr are like 350+ any info on all of them will be awesome</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did a write up on the professional product damper I would get an ati or fluidampr.

 

I had a friend use the professional damper and broke 10 pumps. He gave up and got rid of the car. Later on, when mine broke the first one with a factory damper, I bought an ATI and haven't had a problem since.

 

any thought that the itr crank isnt straight?

 

it was checked and came back good before i even used it. plus wouldnt my pulley be moving and or if the crank was messed up or if it was walking i wold assume more damage would be happening

 

I'm not a fan of elastomeric dampeners but that's just my uninformed opinion. All I know is that the stock dampener is elastomeric and it's obviously not doing its job. I've had great results with my Fluidampr (timing marks used to jump all over with the stock pulley, with the Fluidampr they're dead solid) and it gets pretty hot after running so I know it's doing its job.

Fluidampr or ATI, I don't think you can go wrong with either, like I said I don't like the rubber o-ring idea so I went with the Fluidampr.

 

the guy who helped with my motor said to go ati because with the New York colds teh flidampr doesnt last. any feedback on the fluidampr and cold weather. i dont drive it in the winter but it sits in a garage in the cold and i dont want to to be affected come spring

 

?