2000 GSR Coupe 91k miles

I want to go NA tune. This is my first teg and first time doing stuff like this. im confident in my ability to work on engines, so I will be doing most/almost all of the work myself.

Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams
Skunk2 High Compression Std Size Valves
Skunk2 Valvesprings
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Skunk2 IM
Skunk2 Fuel Rail
ITR Throttle Body
ITR Pistons (Can someone explain to me the idea and difference between oversized and std size itr pistons)

This stuff I want to buy in a couple paychecks once ive saved enough. But for now im thinking of a greddy SP2, greddy headers, and AEM V2 CAI. As you can see im trying to go CARB legal I guess hahaha.

What else do I need to do for this stuff or are there any suggestions you would make? I suppose I need new seals just about everywhere, is there work that i need done and need to take to a shop? Sorry I am a n00b to this whole thing. Ive just been lurking the forums trying to learn all this stuff but you can only learn so much from lurking.


Modified by goota at 8:42 PM 7/9/2007

 

engine management would be a plus

 

I was just wondering why you decided on Skunk2. It's not bad, but there are a lot of choices out there.

 

I wouldn't worry about the valves at this point, won't make much of a difference, but they won't hurt any.
Fuel rail won't help anything, the OEM rail is capable of delivering all the fuel you'll require for your setup (and then some), but it won't hurt either.
A standard size ITR piston is 81mm. Oversized ITR pistons are 81.25mm, and there are also 81.5mm. They are so you can bore out the cylinders and remove old damage/scarring to attain a fresh cylinder wall so new piston rings can break in and seal properly. If there weren't oversized pistons, we'd all be throwing out the entire block whenever cylinder walls became too worn or became damaged, lol.

Personally, I'd go with a SRI instead of a CAI. Better high rpm flow volume and throttle response vs. a CAI. <---mant people will argue that POV here on H-T, the Laws of Physics change when their car's on the dyno.

You may want to get a stronger clutch to hold the added power you'll be making, a "stage 1" will suffice. You'll need larger injectors to deliver the added fuel needed, a set in the 280-320cc range will work great. A tuning system will be a must.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You may want to get a stronger clutch to hold the added power you'll be making, a "stage 1" will suffice. You'll need larger injectors to deliver the added fuel needed, a set in the 280-320cc range will work great. A tuning system will be a must.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think he'll be making enough power to necessitate a stronger clutch... but I guess it depends on how he drives it.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I was just picking skunk2 because it seems like some people always have bad stories about most any other company except skunk2, i may be wrong, it just seems that way from what ive read.

what kind of engine management/tuning is out there and would suffice for the job?

 

i would go with hondata and i'm sure many will agree, reliability has been proven

there are also others like crome that work well,
since your car is obd2 youll have to get a obd1 ecu(chip it) and convert for your car

 

what is wrong with the obd2 ecu's that I cant use them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goota &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is wrong with the obd2 ecu's that I cant use them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't really tune obd2

 

If you're changing out the valves and valve springs, might as well do the retainers as well. I'd also ditch the stage1 cams and go with stage 2's. You'll be safe running either b16a (p30), itr or ctr pistons. I'd look into hondata, crome, or uberdata for tuning...meaning, you'll need an obd1 ecu as well. Also, wait off on buying an intake until you switch over to the skunk2 single stage manifold.....Once you swap over to that manifold, then you'll need to find an itr intake.

 

what year/model is an obd1 ecu from?

why would you go with stage2? I just went with stage 1 because it said it was CARB legal, i guess after all this stuff I probably wont pass smog anyways?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Personally, I'd go with a SRI instead of a CAI. Better high rpm flow volume and throttle response vs. a CAI. &lt;---mant people will argue that POV here on H-T, the Laws of Physics change when their car's on the dyno.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

really? thats not what this dyno graph shows....

Red=J's Racing Short Ram
Green=AEM ITR Cold Air

 

I think his reasoning is on a dyno, youre not dealing with really any turbulent flow into your intake from the outside since your car isnt moving over ground. when your driving you can get alot of turbulent flow from the ground and that air goes strait into the intake. i guess with short ram intakes your gain is more likely since even when your driving the air in your engine bay is less turbulent. you get what im trying to say? the result, more laminar flow for SRI. I dont know im just guessing haha.

 

i feel gay for bumping my own thread, but does anyone know how much it usually costs to bore out an engine or do work of that type?

 

just triple what your expecting to pay in your mind and it should be around there. its the little things that add up. unless u have hookups. but just think, new headgasket, smooth block and head for a good mate, possibly new head bolts to be safe. so much things to think about, givin myself a headache

 

Since your in So Cal, I'd call Tom(Owner) @ Camp1320.

Mailing Address
Camp1320 Motorsports
9843 Mason Avenue
Chatsworth, CA 91311

.Phone Number •
818-718-9352
Fax Number •
818-773-9371
.E-Mail •
Sales@camp1320.com

 

Tom is an old school racer and a really good guy.

He's always looking to make a deal.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goota &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2000 GSR Coupe 91k miles

I want to go NA tune. This is my first teg and first time doing stuff like this. im confident in my ability to work on engines, so I will be doing most/almost all of the work myself.

Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams
Skunk2 High Compression Std Size Valves
Skunk2 Valvesprings
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Skunk2 IM
Skunk2 Fuel Rail
ITR Throttle Body
ITR Pistons (Can someone explain to me the idea and difference between oversized and std size itr pistons)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My 2 cents:
Skunk 2 Stage 2 Cams
Portflow Valve Train (valve springs, vales and retainers)
JG IM
Ask Tom about TB, clutch and pistons. He has many in stock.

 

dayum im in San Diego. chatsworth is kind of far.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goota &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dayum im in San Diego. chatsworth is kind of far.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Camp is about 2 hours away from me (Santa Barbara). I don't mind the drive,

Cuz I don't give a ***** F*ck

Take a trip to Camp, won't be sorry.

Camp1320

 

bore, hone, deck, hot tank, polish crank, shoot peened/ hang rods, balance rotating, assembly block no pan covers, around a G - 1500 depending on what wanted to do/different with the block. i know im missing some things but its enough for a guideline for u. ditch the fuel rail get your yourself a fpr and your good with your stock rail. and also tom is a bad ***. great work . good motors. if u have the money u can go there.

 

that seems like a good price to make the engine like new again. how long does doing stuff like that take?

 

Hit up Eddie at RS machine, i have gone through him for all of my builds and they do amazing work

 

or dave at rs hes good too. no complaints with rs either. as far as turn around time depends on how busy the shop u taking it to. could 1 week could 3-4 weeks. thats somthing u gotta ask them