HOT! Temperature Control Nob not working! PLEASE HELP!
Hey everyone!
Just wonder if anyone has experienced the same or knows what the problem could be. I have a 98 Accord Coupe Ex. Since i got the car in the winter, i always get hot air coming out of the vents as soon as i turn them on, even when i turn the temperature *** all the way to cold. Now that was Cool in the winter but now that the temp has reached over 90 degrees its not cool at all, in fact its always hot in my car. God forbid I have to turn the defrost on to get the windshield clear on a rainy day!!! Well if anybody can help I'd really appreciate it!
Thanx in advance!
Andy A
PS if you need more info on my 98 to give me your opinion lemme know
Just wonder if anyone has experienced the same or knows what the problem could be. I have a 98 Accord Coupe Ex. Since i got the car in the winter, i always get hot air coming out of the vents as soon as i turn them on, even when i turn the temperature *** all the way to cold. Now that was Cool in the winter but now that the temp has reached over 90 degrees its not cool at all, in fact its always hot in my car. God forbid I have to turn the defrost on to get the windshield clear on a rainy day!!! Well if anybody can help I'd really appreciate it!
Thanx in advance!
Andy A
PS if you need more info on my 98 to give me your opinion lemme know
pop the **** off and see if the underside is cracked at all... thats how mine is
if u turn it too fast, it wont catch to adjust the heat level. just remember, with the **** off, the flat part of the shaft sticking out is where the white dash on the **** should be.
if u turn it too fast, it wont catch to adjust the heat level. just remember, with the **** off, the flat part of the shaft sticking out is where the white dash on the **** should be.
Same problem with my '94- the rear of the **** has a hole surrounded by a bushing that clamps onto the shaft from the dash. The @#$%^&* plastic **** cracks at the bushing hole, so the **** "spins" instead of "grabbing/turning" the shaft. Been through a FEW of the *****, a simple pryout and replace.
Sorry, but you MAY have to go into the dash and replace the "mixer" box- a plastic box that holds all the vent cable terms and opens/closes the mix doors. It has a plastic cam setup that often wears out and has to be replaced. Not very expensive, but unless you are experienced you can really f--- up your dash when taking it apart, it will never align correctly again.
Also check in the engine bay to see if the mixer-valve is opening/closing (near the firewall/should be passenger side) when the heat **** is turned. Could be the cable "jumped" it's retainer, so valve is not opening/closing.
Also, with a good manaul check the mix-doors under the dash are opening/closing correctly. They can be adjusted per the cables that open/close them.
If you are now lost, you NEED a GOOD manaul. The Haynes is pretty good, but I prefer the Helms manaul (helms.com/about $75). If you are going to keep the car for any length of time, the $75 will be the best money you ever spent. Wrenchy
Sorry, but you MAY have to go into the dash and replace the "mixer" box- a plastic box that holds all the vent cable terms and opens/closes the mix doors. It has a plastic cam setup that often wears out and has to be replaced. Not very expensive, but unless you are experienced you can really f--- up your dash when taking it apart, it will never align correctly again.
Also check in the engine bay to see if the mixer-valve is opening/closing (near the firewall/should be passenger side) when the heat **** is turned. Could be the cable "jumped" it's retainer, so valve is not opening/closing.
Also, with a good manaul check the mix-doors under the dash are opening/closing correctly. They can be adjusted per the cables that open/close them.
If you are now lost, you NEED a GOOD manaul. The Haynes is pretty good, but I prefer the Helms manaul (helms.com/about $75). If you are going to keep the car for any length of time, the $75 will be the best money you ever spent. Wrenchy
Thanks guys!
I'll definetly try to see if any of these are the causes. I was about to shoot myself today with the humidity....
By any chance you guys wouldnt know what the f$%ck that valve that closes and opens the mixture looks like?
I'll definetly try to see if any of these are the causes. I was about to shoot myself today with the humidity....By any chance you guys wouldnt know what the f$%ck that valve that closes and opens the mixture looks like?
If it's a 4-cylinder, look for the heater hoses that go to the firewall. Roughly below & aft of the thermostat housing. One of the hoses has a valve that's operated by a cable. The V-6 is probably similar, but ???
It's motorized, so it'll only operate with the key 'ON'. Turn the temperature **** (shaft) & watch the cable operate the valve. If it doesn't move, then look for something like a disconnected or broken cable, or something like that. Could be 'fun' taking your dashboard apart...
Along with the water valve operating, the air-mixing doors under the dash are also supposed to move with the temperature control. I'm not sure whether or not you can see all of them easily...
It's motorized, so it'll only operate with the key 'ON'. Turn the temperature **** (shaft) & watch the cable operate the valve. If it doesn't move, then look for something like a disconnected or broken cable, or something like that. Could be 'fun' taking your dashboard apart...
Along with the water valve operating, the air-mixing doors under the dash are also supposed to move with the temperature control. I'm not sure whether or not you can see all of them easily...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrenchy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... but I prefer the Helms manaul (helms.com/about $75). If you are going to keep the car for any length of time, the $75 will be the best money you ever spent. Wrenchy</TD></TR></TABLE>www.helminc.com and it IS the best repair book for Hondas.
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