I have about 1500$ and I want more whp and looking to do head work. What do you guys suggust I do???? I thinking ECU,Cams,retainers,valves,springs. maybe a vtec controller. I dont want a setup that will take alot of tuning but some will be fine and it has to be reliable. I have a apex- N1 cat bakc and h&r springs now and the rest is stock. I want to hear your opions.
Thanks guys and girls

 

Try VERY hard NOT to take this the wrong way but;

Forget the more WHP and learn how to drive the R well.

Sounds like you are draggin with it. To each his own and I'm sure you enjoy that but, what about the twisties?

Like I said, don't take this the wrong way, let Us know what you do/have done, "not done to" with the car. Maybe you need the power Or maybe you just need to learn how to handle the power?

Good luck,

A.

PS get a JDM or ATS FD

 

"98 ITR#855 Apex-i N1 cat-back , H&R Sport Springs, and some head work to come....I need the mid 14's"

 

If you do all that you will certainly want to tune it. It will take tuning for sure. If you want more hp, then get a header.

 

Obviously but, maybe thats Not all he does or has done or has or is planning for.

Hell, maybe he is a great driver that we have never met yet?

Who knows,

Tuning is a GIVEN, maybe he just needs a bunch of people to yell it to him? Lets at least try to get a bit more information from him, No?

A.


[Modified by 1GreyTeg, 10:03 PM 6/7/2002]

 

1500 dollars isnt all that much to see a big improvement in whp...cams are gonna run you atleast that installed, and with those you should atleast match them with some cam gears to tune them somewhat. you wont see huge power gains, but its a start. lightweight flywheels can do wonders and make your car quicker, but you wont actually be getting anymore power, just utilizing the power you have much better. other than that, maybe some JDM sized headers, cat, and exhaust will help you out.

 

how about an ATS fd

 

You should be able to run mid 14.00s Bonestock! I think you need more practice driving that's all. How do you take off? Do you rev it up or do you take off from idle? The take off affects your 1/4 mile time the most. If your take off is weak, you miss a gear or you get too much wheel spin your 1/4 mile time is going to suck. Try reving to 2000 to 2500 rpm and hold it there on the last yellow drop the clutch and slam on the gas. I think this should get you your mid 14.00. Hope this helps.

 

GET a JRSC thats the best bang for the buck!!!

 

Camshafts are better than a supercharger. More power and more reliable.

 

Are You being serious?

A.

 

front mount intake.

 

Ya, I prefer the JUN type 3 cams, Skunk2 valve springs, skunk2 retainers, and JUN ecu. With this you will kick ***.

 

This setup is what You have?

Lets do a comparo here.

How many WHP does your N/A car net? As compared to: The SC'd ITR?

I'm being very generous when I guess 200 WHP for the JUN3's maybe, just maybe 210, After a load of tuning.

And How what about the SC? Do you disagree that 230 WHP is not a moderate possibility?

How would the NA route net higher gains than SC or other FI? Reliability is almost moot when everything is well cared for and maintained. But, for arguments sake I'll agree that NA has the edge with those issues.

You've got me very curious as to your future explanation.

A.

 

I don't have the JUN type 3 yet but my friend has them on his Gsr. He ran a 13.4 in the 1/4 mile which is a lot faster than a supercharged Gsr which I seen run a 13.9. Not to mention the guy in the supercharged Gsr goes to the track like every week. I am not saying that the supercharger won't make more power but it does add about 50 lbs. to your car and runs off the belt. I also don't like the sound of the supercharger, it makes a buzzing sound which is kind of annoying. Using this as a comparison the outcome should be about the same for the Type R. I also seen in a old superstreet magazine a JUN powered Si vs 3 other supercharged Sis. and again the JUN car beat them all in the 1/4 mile not to mention it was the only car that lasted on the road coarse. All the other cars either threw a belt which disabled the supercharger, overheated, or burnt a piston.

 

There is not really any tuning involved as you mentioned. Jun programs the Ecu according to the parts you have on your car. They set the adjustable cam gears to zero. And you are on your way. No dyno tuning needed.

 

JUN

 

How about faster and more reliable? I would go N/A. SC is nice and all but all motor, you can go faster with less HP/TQ. Area under the curve

 

You are exactly right!

 

area under the curve is wayyyy more important than peak....

 

I running 13.5s in the 1/4 with only 185whp, all motor. All motor, more reliable, less tuning headaches.

Mattj


[Modified by Dropspeed, 1:18 PM 6/8/2002]

 

anton, yes he is being serious...i know someone who threw in cams and got 260 whp without tuning

 

Not in a stock ITR........"Threw in cams" suggests that is all he did, with maybe the exception of I/e/h that are a given. There is NO-WAY a stock head, block......can just through in cams and achieve that power. 260whp is also a strech for most B20VTEC owners. Street driven 1.8 turbo cars are happy with those #s on mild boost.

So what else was done besides just "thowing in some cams".

Mattj

 

Allright guys I know My launch isnt the best but I am very used to the power the car has right now and I need more. I would love to go turbo or SC but the whole reliability thing is a huge thing for me since I live in the east coast and there isnt that many good shops that know what their doing. I think I going to do the Jun stage 3 package. Let me know what you guys think

 

you'll be cool if you tune it wwell.....Toda C's vs. Jun III will never end so make up your own mind