Ok...to give background on my question here is a summary of the the history of my block., last year i had to abandon my turbo motor build up due to financial woes. I let my friend use my shortblock in his race car, but told him that the block should be reringed, because it was my first shot at building a block, and i gapped it too big. I know when i built the motor, everything was ok except for the mentioned rings. The block was send to a local motorshop to have it checked out. It was returned and said everything was ok. They tried to Dyno my shortblock with his built head and could only make 376 at 25 psi. I thought it was low...but maybe since the rings were gapped too big, they were loosing power to blow by. Needless to say, they pulled my block out and swapped over to a stock block set up, and ran 10's.

Fast forward a few, my shortblock has been sitting around for many months in storage. I decided to pull it out, and either punch it out to 85 mm and build it up for all motor daily driver. Or i could break it down and sell it off so i could fund other projects. During the disassembly i was turning over the motor and noticed the pistons were sitting below the deck almost half an inch. I wasnt able to pull the crank out, because i was having trouble pulling off the crank pulley bolt. But i took down pretty much everhting else. Here are a few pics of the block and sleeves. It shows where the pistons max out(brown), and the ring area(grey), and the rest of the cylinder(silver). Any thoughts? perhaps the shop that checked out the motor tossed a B16 crank? This is a B18b sleeved to 84mm if that matters.

Pics

 

Yup.I would say 1.6L is a good guess.Measure the piston top to deck at tdc and bdc.It will be just over 3" difference w/b16 crank.

 

i dunno it looks like a gsr crank to me...dont b16 cranks have counterweights that look more like a ls crank?please take a pic when it is at tdc...

 

It could be a B16 crank, but it would have to be matched with LS rods. Perhaps your friend pulled a fast one on you. The B16A & LS motors have wider rod bearings than a GSR/ITR/B16B. You should be able to tell for sure by measuring the width of the bearing...

- The B16a, B17a, B18a/b rod bearing is 19.5mm wide
- The B18C/1/5, b16b rod bearing 17.5mm wide

 

sooo when you crank the motor over, the tops of the pistons stop where the brown stuff is?

 

man thats crazy it looks like a b17 crank with the pistons at tdc

 

holy chit how did you not notice that when you first built it? if you built it and it was not like this the first time, the it looks like either your friends or that shop did you dirty.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2ltrtodd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sooo when you crank the motor over, the tops of the pistons stop where the brown stuff is?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, The rust is from sitting out exposed, with out any sort of wrap or covering. I turned themotor over many times...partially to try to try to get the rings to scrape off some of the surface rust, and partially from being utterly confused at the piston height.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ( o )( o ) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holy chit how did you not notice that when you first built it? if you built it and it was not like this the first time, the it looks like either your friends or that shop did you dirty.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like i said in my explination, when i built the motor, the piston height was fine. I have never seen the shortblock until recently, so i had no way of knowing about this problem until i worked on it. My friend and i have a good relations ship and he would never try to bone me like this. I have a feeling the shop he sent the block just plain messed up.

 

well you either have a b16/b17 crank in there now im guessin.. or they sent you the wrong block back!

 

thats deffenatly a vtec crank. which one i dont know but it really dont matter cause you cant use any with those rods and pistons. i think your buddys or the machine shop have some answering to do

 

lmfao..where the brown **** is, is where the top of the piston skirt should be at tdc..someone ...the **** out of you.

 

I dunno, I'm no expert or anything, but like you aforementioned theres like a half inch of space between the top of the piston and the deck. Wouldn't that much space in between there cause the motor too lean out quite a bit? and with this said, when you got it dynoed wouldn't the afr's been all out of whack to compensate for this gap? or could it have been overlooked seeing as how they were running it at like 26psi?



any chance of the problem being shorter rods?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nu_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dunno, I'm no expert or anything, but like you aforementioned theres like a half inch of space between the top of the piston and the deck. Wouldn't that much space in between there cause the motor too lean out quite a bit? and with this said, when you got it dynoed wouldn't the afr's been all out of whack to compensate for this gap? or could it have been overlooked seeing as how they were running it at like 26psi?



any chance of the problem being shorter rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah since your no expert you shouldnt be posting.

if there was an inch gap you would never make it run and have about .00000000000000000000000000000002psi per cylinder

and 2nd, he never ran the motor like this if you can read. he ran it, pulled it, borrowed it out, and got it back like it a while later........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nu_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

any chance of the problem being shorter rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope...rods are correct.



Anywhoo...since the block is mostly stripped down. What do you guys think about the rust??? i tried to wipe it down but funny thing is that the rust color doesnt move...but the cylinder walls are still crosshatched and smooth to the touch. I almost took a brillo pad to it...but i thought about saving the cross hatch. I sprayed down the block with a generous amount of wd40 as temporary means til i figure out just what to do with this guy. I guess worst case is send it out to the machine shop and bore it out to 85mm since i want to go all motor anyways. That seems to be a popular setup.

oh yea, and as far as the crank goes, i'm having my friend get the right crank from the motor shop that put the wrong one in.

 

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