i currently have a slightly built gsr in my 92 civic hatch right now. after the work is done, it should look like this:

B18c1 81.25mm block
stock rods
arp rod bolts
00 itr pistons
micropolished crank
JG pro comp head (full p & p)
JG pro comp valvetrain
JG cam gears
blox tuner b cams
blox 70mm TB
edelbrock performer x IM

not too sure i'll have the funds for a "fantastic" header, so i will probably stay with my itr header and 2.25 straight piping until i get a new header.

basically, i am trying to hit 200 whp and think it's possible.

questions are as follows:

- block probably has 85-110k miles on it. anything i should be looking to replace with oem parts other than water pump, thermostat and timing belt?

- should i stick with an oem 3 layer HG? (3 layer should yield approx. an 11.4:1 compression ratio)

- any problems i should look out for that other people with a build similar ran into?

- any other input, suggestions, questions, or information is highly appreciated.

 

absolutely any insight would be helpful.


Modified by peacexisxfree at 2:28 PM 7/3/2007

 

throttle body is too large (imo)
id probably replace the oil pump as well..
oem headgasket is bueno..
and id also probably get a type r/blox/skunk2/aebs intake manifold rather than the performer x and take the money you saved into some good headers..
your headers have the 2.5" collector or the 2.25" ? what kind of intake are you running? also, whats the price on the jg valvetrain? i know you can get get all supertech for $500 shipped so that may be more money to put towards headers or exhaust or whatever. also, what are you using to tune?

not sure youll get that 200whp but youll be close.

 

if u ask me the TB is too large for your build...10 people will probably say its not, but thats my opinion.

as far as replacment parts, id go with a new oil/water pump,tbelt,tensioner spring (if the tensioner is still in good shape),head gasket,main seal,and oil pan gasket...you may or may not need all of these things but it would be a good idea to change them while the engine is already out of the car.

oem HG is fine if your happy with 11.4 CR...if u want more/less look into aftermarket, or modified oem (2 layer,single layer).

just make sure when you put it all back together the crank spins freely in the block...
also stock rods are decent for your goals, but it wouldnt hurt to have them shotpeened and have the flashlines polished off.

did you also give your IM to the porter to match it to your head?
this is very important...since you have had the head ported, the dimensions have changed... you must have the manifold port matched or your not going to reap all the benefits of the port job...also make sure that the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are not intruding into the air path...

sorry i gotta run right now, but if you got any other questions ill be back around later to try n answer em....good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">throttle body is too large (imo)
id probably replace the oil pump as well..
oem headgasket is bueno..
and id also probably get a type r/blox/skunk2/aebs intake manifold rather than the performer x and take the money you saved into some good headers..
your headers have the 2.5" collector or the 2.25" ? what kind of intake are you running? also, whats the price on the jg valvetrain? i know you can get get all supertech for $500 shipped so that may be more money to put towards headers or exhaust or whatever. also, what are you using to tune?

not sure youll get that 200whp but youll be close.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good idea on the oil pump.

do you really think the performer is overkill?

i actually thought the TB might be overkill, and listed it as one of my questions but i guess i accidentally erased that before my final draft.

the header has a 2.25" collector but has a pipe welded on to it to extend it. once i get another header, i am going 2.5" to a high flow cat and es oval.

right now intake is cheap sri.

jg head and valvetrain are already on car, so i am cool there!

will be using either s200 or s300 to tune.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u ask me the TB is too large for your build...10 people will probably say its not, but thats my opinion.

as far as replacment parts, id go with a new oil/water pump,tbelt,tensioner spring (if the tensioner is still in good shape),head gasket,main seal,and oil pan gasket...you may or may not need all of these things but it would be a good idea to change them while the engine is already out of the car.

oem HG is fine if your happy with 11.4 CR...if u want more/less look into aftermarket, or modified oem (2 layer,single layer).

just make sure when you put it all back together the crank spins freely in the block...
also stock rods are decent for your goals, but it wouldnt hurt to have them shotpeened and have the flashlines polished off.

did you also give your IM to the porter to match it to your head?
this is very important...since you have had the head ported, the dimensions have changed... you must have the manifold port matched or your not going to reap all the benefits of the port job...also make sure that the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are not intruding into the air path...

sorry i gotta run right now, but if you got any other questions ill be back around later to try n answer em....good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was thinking about a 2 layer hg, but thought there might be problems there. i wouldn't mind upping the comp. a bit, but we only get 91 here. either way, with a 2 layer, i am looking at approx. 11.8:1, which should still be okay with a good tune and 91. piston to valve clearance should not be a problem, correct?

IM is just a stock GSR and is not ported. that will be done though when i purchase an IM.

any suggestions on a TB?

do you guys really think an aebs or skunk2 will yield the results i want?

 

I just did a head for a guy with a real similar build to yours. 3 layer HG, Skunk2 TB and Mani, 11.5:1 compression, s2s2/blox B cams, full exh. WITH a cat, made 204hp on ProStreets Dyno.

So yes, its possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just did a head for a guy with a real similar build to yours. 3 layer HG, Skunk2 TB and Mani, 11.5:1 compression, s2s2/blox B cams, full exh. WITH a cat, made 204hp on ProStreets Dyno.

So yes, its possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good to hear!

thank you!

would you recommend a 3 layer hg for reliability? or do you think it really doesn't matter?

 

Ive seen just as many 2 layers fail as 3 layers. Most of it is in the install, and care for the motor while its being run.

 

i wouldnt say the performer is overkill but id say that i dont think its going to benefit you more than an itr/skunk/blox/aebs and it also looks damn ugly. not to mention that it draws a lot of attention from cops..
yea as far as the throttle body, i would either get your stock one bored to 62-64mm or go with the power products 65mm. and then portmatch your throttlebody to your intake manifold as well or taper it or just make your intake chamber larger.
maybe look into selling your headers and picking up even some ebay tri-y or some used dtr/smsp/hytech/an-r/profab/etc and 2.5" exhaust. i would use a resonator or 2 to quiet it down if youre worried about the cops.
if youre calculating the ems into your budget, just use crome and spend the money on headers.
you have p & p, bigger intake mani, throttle body, and an intake, but your engine cant take advantage of all that if its not able to exhaust quick enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yea as far as the throttle body, i would either get your stock one bored to 62-64mm or go with the power products 65mm. and then portmatch your throttlebody to your intake manifold as well or taper it or just make your intake chamber larger.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i spoke with the guy who built the car years ago. he said he can't remember what size the TB is, but he is sure it's oem. even if it was bored, i am going to go with an aebs/power products. thinking about the 65mm , but contemplating the 68mm as well.

since i have decided on a blox IM, i just want to know what the inlet of it is. if it's 65mm, i'll just go for the aebs 65mm. does this logic sound backwards?

i also found out that the IM i am running now is actually a port-matched stock GSR, however, i am sure i will see better results with the blox port matched. can anyone give me a rough estimate of that cost?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
maybe look into selling your headers and picking up even some ebay tri-y or some used dtr/smsp/hytech/an-r/profab/etc and 2.5" exhaust. i would use a resonator or 2 to quiet it down if youre worried about the cops.
if youre calculating the ems into your budget, just use crome and spend the money on headers.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is what i will do, however, i can't afford to drop a grand on a header. i have been checking out that hytech knock off here on ht.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you have p & p, bigger intake mani, throttle body, and an intake, but your engine cant take advantage of all that if its not able to exhaust quick enough.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
which is exactly why i stated i would be getting a new header and exhaust

 

check out maxbore. i think the gsr can be bored to 64mm for a 100$ and another 75$ to match the intake i think

 

Performer X FTMFW...... check the reviews

 

i think the 65mm should be fine. im not sure what the inlet is for the blox, you can order it and then measure it and then pick which tb you want.
now if your gsr intake mani is port matched, you may just wanna look into getting it ported because my friend did a comparison a few weeks back and a ported stock gsr intake mani and portmatched flowed just as well, actually slightly better than the skunk2 intake mani.
yea, i know you can get the rage headers for like $600 or something like that but the knockoff should still do pretty well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check out maxbore. i think the gsr can be bored to 64mm for a 100$ and another 75$ to match the intake i think </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, that is another one of my options.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Performer X FTMFW...... check the reviews</TD></TR></TABLE>
although an awesome IM, i think my build won't be able to maximize its greatness. like zeimbo said, i think i'll be fine with a blox, aebs, etc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the 65mm should be fine. im not sure what the inlet is for the blox, you can order it and then measure it and then pick which tb you want.
now if your gsr intake mani is port matched, you may just wanna look into getting it ported because my friend did a comparison a few weeks back and a ported stock gsr intake mani and portmatched flowed just as well, actually slightly better than the skunk2 intake mani.
yea, i know you can get the rage headers for like $600 or something like that but the knockoff should still do pretty well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any dyno runs/comparisons of the ported GSR IM?

 

i can see if they logged them and saved. but i know they produced the same/very similar numbers as far as hp/tq and the powerband.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can see if they logged them and saved. but i know they produced the same/very similar numbers as far as hp/tq and the powerband.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. i would appreciate that.

i would still be a little skeptical though, just porting the GSR mani.

has anyone else done this with good results?

 

how much did you pay for your pistons? well for the price youd pay to port it and match it, you might as well just get the blox.

 

allmotor engine builds love bigger throttle bodies, ive been told if at wot your motor starts increasing in vaccum you need a bigger tb

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">throttle body is too large (imo)
id probably replace the oil pump as well..
oem headgasket is bueno..
and id also probably get a type r/blox/skunk2/aebs intake manifold rather than the performer x and take the money you saved into some good headers..
your headers have the 2.5" collector or the 2.25" ? what kind of intake are you running? also, whats the price on the jg valvetrain? i know you can get get all supertech for $500 shipped so that may be more money to put towards headers or exhaust or whatever. also, what are you using to tune?

not sure youll get that 200whp but youll be close.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct me If I'm wrong, but when you do get intake/exhaust ports p & p's don' they usually trim the ports according to the opening of the gasket? I dunno, thats just what i learned off of horsepower TV way back in the day.. Im new to the honda game so i dunno, maybe they do it different with a B-series head?

 

[QUOTE=Suck my DX]

did you also give your IM to the porter to match it to your head?
this is very important...since you have had the head ported, the dimensions have changed... you must have the manifold port matched or your not going to reap all the benefits of the port job...also make sure that the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are not intruding into the air path...

Correct me If I'm wrong, but when you do get intake/exhaust ports p & p's don' they usually trim the ports according to the opening of the gasket? I dunno, thats just what i learned off of horsepower TV way back in the day.. Im new to the honda game so i dunno, maybe they do it different with a B-series head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did you pay for your pistons? well for the price youd pay to port it and match it, you might as well just get the blox.</TD></TR></TABLE>
pistons? i got a deal on them!

that's what i was thinking (re: the im)

how much does port matching an IM generally cost? i am pretty sure i am going with a blox. inlet is 65mm so it will be perfect for the professional products TB.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">allmotor engine builds love bigger throttle bodies, ive been told if at wot your motor starts increasing in vaccum you need a bigger tb</TD></TR></TABLE>
more fuel is not yet in the plan...therefore a throttle body CAN be too big. at WOT there should be no vacuum.

 

why thank you mr. fedex man.

 

how much and where from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much and where from?</TD></TR></TABLE>
got them from jdmland.com.

my friend knows the owner so i got hooked up.

do you know how much port matching an IM usually costs?

 

one place wanted $100 just to match the throttle body...i figured hell naw...so i did it myself...took a while with the dremel but turned out pretty cool...then on the intake side i also did it myself too...saved maybe another $100 or more too...