I was wondering what you guys payed to JUST have your head milled down. Im either going to take .02 or .04 off.

Also if I take .04 off on a totally stock b16 head will that interfere with my timing enough to where I cant use my stock cam gears? (I want to bump the comp. up a little bit b.c I plan to do a little spray in the future, I know its the wrong forum for that one but never hurts to add)

thanks

 

no body?

 

anywhere from $40-$80

 

Wow, thats alot better than I was expecting. But does anyone still know if shaving .04 off will interfere with my timing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SomeDude56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, thats alot better than I was expecting. But does anyone still know if shaving .04 off will interfere with my timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have one that is already milled i can sell you so you can always switch back to your stock head later. i'll take 250 shipped. head with cam caps no cams, no valve cover. let me know.

 

No thanks man, Im already not very happy about having to dump about 500 bucks on this one but that is a good price GL on the sale

 

shaving the head has alittle to do with timing, normally if u milled it, for ever .050 that is taken off you advance your gears +1..

 

I think for a B head its every .036 +1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shaving the head has alittle to do with timing, normally if u milled it, for ever .050 that is taken off you advance your gears +1..</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Gearbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think for a B head its every .036 +1</TD></TR></TABLE>


not trying to be a dick, but if you don't know the direct answer, it won't help much by guessing. There is so much 'mis-information' going around that it can do more bad then good, as i've learned the hard way myself.

Broken gearbox...that sounds more right then the other guy but it would be good to have somebody re-clarify that

I don't know the direct answer to how much you compensate on the cam gears for the milled head...but this answer below was found on a thread not long ago.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by don lackey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The cam gear is 100mm in dia. The circumfrence is ~314mm (100mm x PI). So 1mm is about 1.1 cam gear degree (2 crank degrees).
Meaning when the head is milled 1mm (creating 1mm of t-belt slack) the cam gears need to rotate 1.1 degrees to take up the 1mm slack.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not trying to be a dick, but if you don't know the direct answer, it won't help much by guessing. There is so much 'mis-information' going around that it can do more bad then good, as i've learned the hard way myself.

Broken gearbox...that sounds more right then the other guy but it would be good to have somebody re-clarify that

I don't know the direct answer to how much you compensate on the cam gears for the milled head...but this answer below was found on a thread not long ago.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i would say i'm about to be an *** but i'm not, too old, i've searched, about this a million and one times, infact, if u search my topics i've made you'll find a few threads about me questioning milling a head and timing compenstation.. However, after donf, b19coupe and 92typer helped me out (some good reasonable good info givers) it was a conclusion upon every .050 milled off you advance your gears +1.. I had gotten my head back, my gears were currently at +2 intake and -1 on the exhaust. I then advanced my gears because i had my head shaved about .020 which was bring my CR right up to around 11.8~12.0, when i had my gears set original the car wouldn't idle, and had dick for low end.. after a few days of research on this sites and others, advancing by 1 was the best.. I then did this and the car idled like a sexy beast, the car now had a dick in low end and the top end was sick..the gears have not moved from that spot since. Shorting your head or your block leaves a slight retardation in the timing.. its not truely about slack in the belt because thats why you have a tensioner... Get some info before you tell me i'm wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well i would say i'm about to be an *** but i'm not, too old, i've searched, about this a million and one times, infact, if u search my topics i've made you'll find a few threads about me questioning milling a head and timing compenstation.. However, after donf, b19coupe and 92typer helped me out (some good reasonable good info givers) it was a conclusion upon every .050 milled off you advance your gears +1.. I had gotten my head back, my gears were currently at +2 intake and -1 on the exhaust. I then advanced my gears because i had my head shaved about .020 which was bring my CR right up to around 11.8~12.0, when i had my gears set original the car wouldn't idle, and had dick for low end.. after a few days of research on this sites and others, advancing by 1 was the best.. I then did this and the car idled like a sexy beast, the car now had a dick in low end and the top end was sick..the gears have not moved from that spot since. Shorting your head or your block leaves a slight retardation in the timing.. its not truely about slack in the belt because thats why you have a tensioner... Get some info before you tell me i'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

rotating cam gears a certain way doesn't take up slack in the belt..i fail to understand that, i understand that rotating gears a certain way compensate for a timing issue, valve timing, cam/crank and other timing.. but i failed to see how turning a gear, the same way, which is only really turning the CAM itself, takes up slack in a belt.. enlighten please.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its not truely about slack in the belt because thats why you have a tensioner... </TD></TR></TABLE>

How exactly does the tensioner take slack out of the front side of the belt?

 

tell me how setting a camgear degree at +/- takes slack out of the belt as well.

 

lock your tensioner down where you have as much slack as you can get. then loosen the bolts on you adjustable cam gears. now without your crank or cams moving rotate the outer ring on your cam gears counter clockwise. What happens? SLACK! now turn them clockwise. What happens? THE SLACK GOES AWAY!! pretty simple if you THINK about it.

 

Also something else to think about. The cam gears have to fit within the teeths of the belt. If you line up the camgears perfectly the cam gears may not align with the teeth now. So you have to get the gears within the teeth. So thats why you want to be able to adjust the cams independtly of the gears.

So that may be why adjusting the height of the head/block screws it up, because you've now changed the distance between the crank gear and cam gears which means less teeth will now fit in that distance.

 

i was talking about ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS..not actually moving the cam gears and crank forward you all do understand that, i'm talking about adjusting just the cam, by the cam gear, like advancing or retarding it, like u would normally in cam gear tuning, which is what i figured the OP was questioning about, i never saught to thinka bout actually moving a teeth forward to take up the compenstation, and yes, i do know that when you turn the crank it takes up slack i'm not stupid..

 

you cant compensate for it without adjustable cam gears unless you mill enough off the head to actually skip a tooth. which according to this


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by don lackey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The cam gear is 100mm in dia. The circumfrence is ~314mm (100mm x PI). So 1mm is about 1.1 cam gear degree (2 crank degrees).
Meaning when the head is milled 1mm (creating 1mm of t-belt slack) the cam gears need to rotate 1.1 degrees to take up the 1mm slack.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

would be .379 and i dont think that is possible. 1 tooth=10.58823 degrees

 

Well it looks like im just gonna go with .02, I really dont wanna have to go out and by some adj. cam gears. thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BILLETGRIP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant compensate for it without adjustable cam gears unless you mill enough off the head to actually skip a tooth. which according to this


would be .379 and i dont think that is possible. 1 tooth=10.58823 degrees</TD></TR></TABLE>