dragging warped rotors rusty brakes, technical stuff, new rotors brembo, strategy
used a lot of keywords for search purposes
so i had another thread about a draggin wheel concluded i got driaggin brakes, i got the 76 for all 4 brembo discs (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com) is the ****
i have that much,
, but i need tho know if i need to have any $$$ extra or can i do the discs just like changing a tire?
like the pads are may be bad, a little glazed or something from the rotors, also the brakes sometimes squeek under light pressure
rrr help me out here i also never done brakes before
btw im buying myslef brakes for my 18th today probably
so i had another thread about a draggin wheel concluded i got driaggin brakes, i got the 76 for all 4 brembo discs (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com) is the ****
i have that much,
, but i need tho know if i need to have any $$$ extra or can i do the discs just like changing a tire?like the pads are may be bad, a little glazed or something from the rotors, also the brakes sometimes squeek under light pressure
rrr help me out here i also never done brakes before
btw im buying myslef brakes for my 18th today probably
A dragging wheel is most likely a frozen caliper, and replacing the rotors won't do any good to fix that much of the problem. Is there a roaring noise from the wheel that is dragging? If so you could have a junk wheel bearing.
First and foremost you should buy a manual with detailed brake repair instructions, and be sure you have the right tools/knowledge to troubleshoot and repair the problem. Do you have a friend or relative that knows a decent amount about auto repair who can help you out? To be completely honest with you if you don't know what is wrong with it, then you don't know the right way to fix it. Brake repair is nothing like changing a tire, although to experienced people it is just as easy.
You will need a new caliper (or two, which you MUST bleed otherwise you will have no brake pedal), and if the rotors are rust pitted you'll need to replace them too(if not they will need to be machined). If you have more than 50% of the pad life left (6mm or more) and are on a tight budget you could save them by deglazing them, other wise you'll need a set of pads too. You will need a die grinder with 3M sanding discs to sand the wheel hubs so the rotors have a flat surface to mate with, otherwise they will pulsate. You will need moly paste to lube the pad end tabs, and brake slider grease for the caliper sliders.
If your car is about 5 or more years old, you may need to replace hoses and or lines with the calipers because they rot in place and won't come loose. If any of the caliper bleeders wont open you will need replace them (the calipers that is) because you won't be able to properly bleed all of the air out of the hydraulic system.
Sorry dude. I don't mean to be a jerk, but it might be a little too much for a first time brake repair.
First and foremost you should buy a manual with detailed brake repair instructions, and be sure you have the right tools/knowledge to troubleshoot and repair the problem. Do you have a friend or relative that knows a decent amount about auto repair who can help you out? To be completely honest with you if you don't know what is wrong with it, then you don't know the right way to fix it. Brake repair is nothing like changing a tire, although to experienced people it is just as easy.
You will need a new caliper (or two, which you MUST bleed otherwise you will have no brake pedal), and if the rotors are rust pitted you'll need to replace them too(if not they will need to be machined). If you have more than 50% of the pad life left (6mm or more) and are on a tight budget you could save them by deglazing them, other wise you'll need a set of pads too. You will need a die grinder with 3M sanding discs to sand the wheel hubs so the rotors have a flat surface to mate with, otherwise they will pulsate. You will need moly paste to lube the pad end tabs, and brake slider grease for the caliper sliders.
If your car is about 5 or more years old, you may need to replace hoses and or lines with the calipers because they rot in place and won't come loose. If any of the caliper bleeders wont open you will need replace them (the calipers that is) because you won't be able to properly bleed all of the air out of the hydraulic system.
Sorry dude. I don't mean to be a jerk, but it might be a little too much for a first time brake repair.
i forgot to mention its not really dragging, when i jack up the car and try to spin that wheel its hard, for about 35degrees of rotation and i could hear it the other day,
:siileeeent, scrape, siiilent, scrape,
another buddy here on HT said if it were brake dragging it could be the calipers no fully released due to the caliper slide not having enough grease
so since its not a constane drag, i would guess its a warped rotor, i have a video of me spinning the tire, , when the brakes touch the disk there there's resistance but if you spin the tire it will complete a few more revlutions under it own spinning, the brakes dont pulsate or anthing though
any rap on brake-check, they do free checks right?
:siileeeent, scrape, siiilent, scrape,
another buddy here on HT said if it were brake dragging it could be the calipers no fully released due to the caliper slide not having enough grease
so since its not a constane drag, i would guess its a warped rotor, i have a video of me spinning the tire, , when the brakes touch the disk there there's resistance but if you spin the tire it will complete a few more revlutions under it own spinning, the brakes dont pulsate or anthing though
any rap on brake-check, they do free checks right?
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EK9 BEEZLER
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jul 25, 2005 04:44 AM




