H2B
So guys i was lookin around just researching and i came along h2b, read into it and looks like its a H22 with a b series tranny. What other info can you guys give me. Pros and Cons from experience. Why is it better than using a h series tranny? Let me know some info guys, ive been researchin, and still lookin around some more on some info. Just want to know anything you have to say. Thanks for your time, i really appreciate it. Any info!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H2B FAQ https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1998426
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All you'll ever need to know
</TD></TR></TABLE>
All you'll ever need to know
alright, i read it three times, im gonna read it another 20, but n e ways i got a couple question. Why do i need to relocate the oil drain? I laso read about the crank pulley and balance shaft, this is just all confusing to me, im barley gettin into the scene, sorry for bein a noob...haha...ne wayz, what am i gonna have to do about these? Can i keep the alternator in its original place and bend in the framerail. What other mods besides headers am i missing? Thanks for all the help guys!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1BADEGDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Why do i need to relocate the oil drain? </TD></TR></TABLE>
For clearance, the stock oil drain plug can be easily damaged on lowered cars.
The rest are really just necessary parts for frame rail clearance.
For clearance, the stock oil drain plug can be easily damaged on lowered cars.
The rest are really just necessary parts for frame rail clearance.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For clearance, the stock oil drain plug can be easily damaged on lowered cars.
The rest are really just necessary parts for frame rail clearance. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not always the case though. It depends on the setup
For clearance, the stock oil drain plug can be easily damaged on lowered cars.
The rest are really just necessary parts for frame rail clearance. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not always the case though. It depends on the setup
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1BADEGDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much of a difference is there from d to b series trannies?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The D trans can be just as good as a B trans IF you're willing to do your homework (most aren't)
a ex/si trans uses most of the same bearings as the b-series (just comparing for strength) but if you get some gears from a cable zc trans OR some mfactory gears and an OBX LSD.
Mfactory gears = 625
obx lsd = 375
ex/si trans = 200
total price = 1200
That's with a fully built close ratio LSD trans that will have a better gearing advantage over an ITR trans. It will feel like an ITR trans with a 4.928 final drive. With a built D trans, an H2D becomes more cost effective than H2B.
All of this can be debated for a long time, and if you wanna take it there I'll be glad to join you as I love to get all nerdy and discuss these things
The D trans can be just as good as a B trans IF you're willing to do your homework (most aren't)
a ex/si trans uses most of the same bearings as the b-series (just comparing for strength) but if you get some gears from a cable zc trans OR some mfactory gears and an OBX LSD.
Mfactory gears = 625
obx lsd = 375
ex/si trans = 200
total price = 1200
That's with a fully built close ratio LSD trans that will have a better gearing advantage over an ITR trans. It will feel like an ITR trans with a 4.928 final drive. With a built D trans, an H2D becomes more cost effective than H2B.
All of this can be debated for a long time, and if you wanna take it there I'll be glad to join you as I love to get all nerdy and discuss these things
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The D trans can be just as good as a B trans IF you're willing to do your homework (most aren't)
a ex/si trans uses most of the same bearings as the b-series (just comparing for strength) but if you get some gears from a cable zc trans OR some mfactory gears and an OBX LSD.
Mfactory gears = 625
obx lsd = 375
ex/si trans = 200
total price = 1200
That's with a fully built close ratio LSD trans that will have a better gearing advantage over an ITR trans. It will feel like an ITR trans with a 4.928 final drive. With a built D trans, an H2D becomes more cost effective than H2B.
All of this can be debated for a long time, and if you wanna take it there I'll be glad to join you as I love to get all nerdy and discuss these things
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what could you do to go one step beyond that, but not dog box... is there anything ?
The D trans can be just as good as a B trans IF you're willing to do your homework (most aren't)
a ex/si trans uses most of the same bearings as the b-series (just comparing for strength) but if you get some gears from a cable zc trans OR some mfactory gears and an OBX LSD.
Mfactory gears = 625
obx lsd = 375
ex/si trans = 200
total price = 1200
That's with a fully built close ratio LSD trans that will have a better gearing advantage over an ITR trans. It will feel like an ITR trans with a 4.928 final drive. With a built D trans, an H2D becomes more cost effective than H2B.
All of this can be debated for a long time, and if you wanna take it there I'll be glad to join you as I love to get all nerdy and discuss these things
</TD></TR></TABLE>what could you do to go one step beyond that, but not dog box... is there anything ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GarageAlchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what could you do to go one step beyond that, but not dog box... is there anything ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
newer parts? painting the case? maybe get some titanium bolts?
Maybe get a custom 1st gear made but that would be $$$$$
I'm working on getting a taller 1st gear made check the tech/misc stickied thread.
what could you do to go one step beyond that, but not dog box... is there anything ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
newer parts? painting the case? maybe get some titanium bolts?
Maybe get a custom 1st gear made but that would be $$$$$
I'm working on getting a taller 1st gear made check the tech/misc stickied thread.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1BADEGDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How the hell do i check my pms, haha lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PM'ed you. You might want to check out the Evolution Industries H2B kit. Another route to going H2B with alot of benefits over other kits out there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That may be so, but it also costs more.
That may be so, but it also costs more.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah $1300
But it comes with mounts, so i guess it's worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it basically works out to the same amount of money because the Evo kit comes with one piece flywheel/spacer, billet mounts, and extra's like the pcv adapter, and flywheel bolt lock, also backed with a lifetime warranty and NHRA approved.
But it comes with mounts, so i guess it's worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it basically works out to the same amount of money because the Evo kit comes with one piece flywheel/spacer, billet mounts, and extra's like the pcv adapter, and flywheel bolt lock, also backed with a lifetime warranty and NHRA approved.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah it basically works out to the same amount of money because the Evo kit comes with one piece flywheel/spacer, billet mounts, and extra's like the pcv adapter, and flywheel bolt lock, also backed with a lifetime warranty and NHRA approved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how convenient, you're selling them too.
Yeah it basically works out to the same amount of money because the Evo kit comes with one piece flywheel/spacer, billet mounts, and extra's like the pcv adapter, and flywheel bolt lock, also backed with a lifetime warranty and NHRA approved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how convenient, you're selling them too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> with alot of benefits over other kits out there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Many opinions differ here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yeah it basically works out to the same amount of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not neccessarily, expiecally if you are an existing B-series owner with mounts, flywheel, etc...
Then it becomes a big difference.
Many opinions differ here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yeah it basically works out to the same amount of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not neccessarily, expiecally if you are an existing B-series owner with mounts, flywheel, etc...
Then it becomes a big difference.

