Because there's nothing to do in south carolina

I started off building this about a year ago. Rebuilt Z6 trans, MFactory 3/5 gears, cable si/dx 3rd as 4th gear, Quaife LSD






Then I found this on ebay, I got it for $800 shipped. F20B DOHC VTEC found in the EDM/JDM accord/torneo sir and sir-t (auto version is 180hp, manual version is 197hp) It's basically a destroked h22 that was made to test out ideas for the future S2000 Engine that honda was planning on building

Another thing that I think is pretty interesting about this thing is that it has a bore of 85mm and a stroke of 88mm. When people take a gsr block which has a stroke of 87.2mm and then they sleeve it and bore it out to 85mm, and then build the head to give it larger ports and oversized valves. That's basically what this engine is but it has a lot more room to grow. The idea was to start with a large engine and shrink it down (externally) instead of starting with a small engine and stretch it out. This approach is MUCH more cost effective. So in a nutshell think of this as a 11:1 85mm b18 with a built head with a lightweight flywheel for the cost of a gsr block.

A GSR longblock goes for 1799 + shipping off of hmotors. My F20B was 800, my adapter plate was ~750. Making my engine cost ~$1550 But the F2D kit also comes with a lightweight flywheel. Not to mention that this engine has WAYYYY more potential than any b-series. Granted most will spend about 300 more for a f20b longblock than i did, but this still leaves us with less money invested than a gsr longblock.



Then I got the european accord type R intake manifold for $230



Then I spent WAY too much time to get this thing to work. Blah It requires all these stupid adapter plates


Then I found a custom notched washer from mcmaster.com to help me move my crank pulley closer to the block to provide clearance



Then I got an explicit speed alt bracket



Then I got some rice bling



Then I ground the block to provide axle clearance






(and here's a before pic)



Notched the frame for crank pulley clearance. Took me 20 minutes I'm going to redo this later



thehatchninja notched my hood



yeehaw



Got my car towed with no engine. AAA roadside service was pissed. hahahaha



Screwed up my adapter plate and got a replacement one, the new one is made of steel



Leveling the engine while mocking it up




Used an integra mount with a piece of 5" channel that i used my grinder on and drilled holes accordingly to make my timing belt mount. I got my integra mount for free. I paid 5 dollars for the piece of channel. I then used polyurethane fill to fill my mounts. My mounts in total cost me 13 dollars.






and you can guess the rest from here











it rips, more to come soon.

Edit: November 15, 2021 - 8:21pm EST:
Re-uploaded two broken photobucket link images with higher resolution images. Same exact image, just higher resolution.
Removed remaining photobucket images and reuploaded directly to this site. Some of them are slightly better quality, but still only 1024x768 sized.

 

the car isn't a looker. I've been focusing all my energy under the hood. Later on I'll clean it up and pull the engine to clean up the bay.

 

wicked thread

awesome swap man, any videos? have you ran it down the 1/4?

 

Can I just give you a for massive amounts of ingenuity?

 

good ****, bense!

 

who cares how it looks, just knowing what under the hood makes it pimp to me.

nice work man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wicked thread

awesome swap man, any videos? have you ran it down the 1/4?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks. That will come in time, the car has only been running for 15 days

It's stronger than a H22 swapped CX though.

 

good stuff man, just shows you dont always have to spend alot to get alot

 

Just noticed that you're going to be at Import Alliance. Thank goodness I'll have my camera with me.

 

Wow, that's one prop-worthy build! Sick motor, and awesome ingenuity!

 

lookin forward to times/dyno numbers if you get to that

 

How much power & torque? I wanna see if it REALLY is Kseries power.

 

wow massive amount of work put into that thing. Great job

 

thats a hawt swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks. That will come in time, the car has only been running for 15 days

It's stronger than a H22 swapped CX though.</TD></TR></TABLE>


15 days, more then enough time jk

you think it's stronger then a h22 swapped cx? meaning H22 with h-series tranny or H2B?

 

many people like the JDM k20 gearing with the JDM 03+ crv final drive. The 5.062 final drive in the JDM K20R trans. once this is swapped into an EG/EK with the smaller tire diameter an even greater gearing advantage is provided. But 1st gear becomes "too short"

I am working on getting a taller d-series 1st gear made, I have sent samples to a company that has provided a promising response. With this taller 1st gear combined with my custom geared tranny, the 1-5 of my trans is very similiar to the 2-6 of that modified k20R trans.

In fact here's a comparison....


hehehehehheh

 

 

sick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you think it's stronger then a h22 swapped cx? meaning H22 with h-series tranny or H2B? </TD></TR></TABLE>

it pulls on my buddys straight h22 swapped cx

my engine is also the automatic version with weaker cams. I will be building the head later on so it's really not that big of a deal. But for the time being I have some h22 cams that i'll put in there for a cheap 15ish hp upgrade

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just noticed that you're going to be at Import Alliance. Thank goodness I'll have my camera with me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

unfortunately I may not be able to get off for that meet. I'm still trying though, I might just call in sick lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much power & torque? I wanna see if it REALLY is Kseries power. </TD></TR></TABLE>

k20a2 = 200hp @ 7400, 142tq @ 6000
F20B = 197hp @ 7200, 145tq @ 6600

 

Bump for an outrageous project

 

congrats!!!!!!!!!!!! sick work !!!

 

mmm no frm sleeves. rip that motor out again n add some forged goodies!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

k20a2 = 200hp @ 7400, 142tq @ 6000
F20B = 197hp @ 7200, 145tq @ 6600</TD></TR></TABLE>

cmon....we know thats bench racing...

It takes I/H/E/Kpro(or reflashed ecu) to swap in a K into our cars and that usually makes 200-210hp and 150-155tq to the wheels.

Just curious what the F20B will make...I/H/E/tuned

Im not trying to bring ya down, i just wanna see what it'll do.