Alright my 90CRX Si w/B16A2 swap has the fallowing mods:
Custom Velocity Stack Intake (3" Port Matched to my TB), 75mm to 69mm Tapered TB, Skunk 2 IM (Classic Style), DC 4-1 Header, RS*R Catback Exhaust, NGK Iridium Plugs, NGK Spark Plug Wires, Civic TypeR Crank Pulley (Only Alternator Running on it), ACT Heavy Duty Clutch, ACT 8.8 lbs Flywheel.

What would be the best VTEC engagement point? Right now it engages at 6000 RPMs and it's in VTEC for like a second which makes me feel like it's not fully utilizing it potential. I am ordering a new ECU from phearable.net so I need to know Oh and I plan on going NA.

Thanks


Modified by g2tegsown at 2:48 PM 6/29/2007

 

best way to find out is get it on the dyno and see the hp graph.

 

Unfortunately I don't have access to a Dyno b/c I live in a shith*le in the middle of nowhere

 

<FONT SIZE="4">***Anyone that adds un unnecessary poll option will get % docked!***</FONT>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT SIZE="4">***Anyone that adds un unnecessary poll option will get % docked!***</FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>
This'll be fun.

Really a dnyo is your best bet, or work with some tuning software just keep trial and error. Look for someone with a setup like yours copy it, and clean it up to work for your own car.

 

Leave it at stock engagement, your not going to make anymore power by moving it until you upgrade cams. Get rid of that monster tb also.

 

mine was set to 5100-5200 on my zdyne ecu, on my stocck b16a it didnt have any dip at all but my engine is in my car and yours is in yours... i say dyno it.

sell that throttlebody to a boosted friend, and then go out and get one from planet earth

 

It's easy, you change it until you can't feel the engagement point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ED9man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's easy, you change it until you can't feel the engagement point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

heh, sad but true.

during either road tuning or a dyno session is the only real way to do it.

 

best bet, is going back to a stock throttle body.

you might even get some power back.


that's a relatively stock setup, besides the bolt ons. a lot of air going in the motor, without a real way to get it out. (crappy header and exhaust)


put a stock TB back on, reset vtec to its stock location and enjoy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best bet, is going back to a stock throttle body.

you might even get some power back.


that's a relatively stock setup, besides the bolt ons. a lot of air going in the motor, without a real way to get it out. (crappy header and exhaust)


put a stock TB back on, reset vtec to its stock location and enjoy. </TD></TR></TABLE>

and get rid of the 8.8 lb flywheel, i'm sure that is killing your top end as well.

b16's dont respond well to the kind of mods you have added.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best bet, is going back to a stock throttle body.

you might even get some power back.


that's a relatively stock setup, besides the bolt ons. a lot of air going in the motor, without a real way to get it out. (crappy header and exhaust)


put a stock TB back on, reset vtec to its stock location and enjoy. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Manny. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and get rid of the 8.8 lb flywheel, i'm sure that is killing your top end as well.

b16's dont respond well to the kind of mods you have added. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

"and get rid of the 8.8 lb flywheel, i'm sure that is killing your top end as well"

How do you figure? What information are you basing this on? I have killer power from 4000 RPMs to 7500 RPMs.

"that's a relatively stock setup, besides the bolt ons. a lot of air going in the motor, without a real way to get it out. (crappy header and exhaust)"

So your saying that the RS*R and the DC 4-1 Header are "crappy"? WTF are you running thats so special

 

show me the graph where a DC header actually makes power. as of monday, i'll be running a k20a R. thats whats special.


yes, the 8.8lb flywheel is too light for a b16. maybe on a roadcourse, would it be good. but i try not to use anything less than 12lbs on any of my setups.


the 8.8 is terrible for the drag strip if you arent making the power.

 

http://www.importtuner.com/pow....html

Now granted this is the stock engine and a 4-2-1 Header, but it does show exactly where it makes power. From my understanding the DC 4-1 as with any 4-1 header is less restrictive, and less restriction favors top end power. I am trying to keep my power in the mid to top end range, I am finding through my own R&D that increasing the air coming into the engine using the biggest, shortest method is providing the best throttle response, and greatest acceleration from 3000 RPMs and up, once it hits VTEC the needle is buried. And I would run an open header for the exhaust if it wasn't for the noise and cops

 

you call that power?


listen partner, you arent going to convince me that your b16 is fast with the parts you have mentioned.


great. a 15 second car.

invest in some pistons, cams, a REAL header, some displacement, and head to the dyno..... then come back.


like i said before, put the stock TB on the car, set vtec to stock. the car will run much better.

 

Well right now the VTEC is engaging at 6000 RPMs from a stock P30 ECU, I haven't changed it yet, I am looking to find the best engagement for my setup b/c I am buying an ECU.

I'm not saying I am building any major power, I know that a NA engine builds need modified internals to see any serious gains,and that bolt on's make minor power at best, but aid in power once the engine is partially/fully built. I bought the car w/ 95% of these mods on the car. I am slowly replacing parts as I can afford them, this is my 2nd CRX with a B16A and this one is so MUCH faster.

 

if you cant dyno the car, just leave it alone then.


BTW, your tach is off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, your tach is off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol yessssssss

 

If you think mad Vtak is KraKin at 6000 with an UN-modified ecu.....then.....
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.................... .................................................. .................................................. ......HAHAHAHAHAHAHA....ahhhh........yeah.......HA HAHAHAHA........I just **** myself

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Manny. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and get rid of the 8.8 lb flywheel, i'm sure that is killing your top end as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

BS...Show us one dyno where a flywheel changed power output.

I run the same flywheel on a b16...its fcukin awesome and I would never go heavier. What is your reasoning for suggesting a heavier one?

 

torque off of the line.

well, in a drag racing situation.

 

not enough momentum PWNS you with a really light flywheel when going in a straight line.

not enough weight to give you that extra *umph* into the next gear. awesome for turns, but not for drag racing.

I went with an ACT 12 lb flywheel because i plan to do some road racing in the near future. i felt a big difference in acceleration in first, second, and very slightly in third. Fourth and fifth gear have nothing now. i can downshift all i want on the highway and the car wont go anywhere.

decide what you want your car for and then go with mods that match that goal. dyno tune it to find the best crossover point instead of guessing. Each motor is different so our experiences will NOT help you at all.

 

Anyone who thinks that making the flywheel lighter is not good for drag racing with a should read this:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/f...s.htm
BTW I know it decreases your top speed, but how many Hondas are hitting their top speed when they cross the trap?

And my tach is not off... I am sure it's kicking in @ 5800 RPMs, the needle just goes so fast when VTEC hits I couldn't tell if it was 5800 RPMs or 6000 RPMs.

From my readings it sounds like everyone has their opinions and they are always right. I have found through my own testing that some of this stuff I read is absolute horsesh*t.

I actually saw an article in a car magazine once that said that "the Integra Non VTEC engine was about as popular as a black sheep, but go on honda-tech and they will tell you a different story". And I agree with a lot of the people on here, Strong bottom end, lower compression than VTEC engines, easy to come by, transmission has longer gears, etc... It's funny how a major publication who deals directly with modified/tuned import cars all the time has completely different views as the honda-tech members.

 

okay, know-it-all.


if you dont want our opinions, dont ******* ask next time. you sound like my GFs 17 year old little brother.