I was reading and it seams a lot of people have mixed issues with this so I am wanting to get a fresh thread with peoples thoughts about this. I plan on taking a B20Z2 block and have it bored out to 85mm and add Wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, with the crank, pistons, and rods all balanced. This setup is going to stay non v-tec but will have a ported and polished head with Crower 404s. I plan on setting the rev limit to 8000rpms. So my question is, do you guys think this will be a safe setup to go with since it will not see boost or nitrous?

 

Yes, but add a block guard.

 

And watch the low timing curve 44 degrees at 4000 will hurt the sleeves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And watch the low timing curve 44 degrees at 4000 will hurt the sleeves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please elaborate. Sorry i am a newby I don't know what you mean.

 

he means agressive timing down low is likely to detonate and shorten the life of the sleeves.

 

also use a block girddle these will help you to have a stronger block for hi rpms

 

We had a b20vtec bored to 85 in our race car and ran it for a whole season with no problems. We did have a block guard in it though. This was a purpose built race car which only saw the dyno and the track so I cant say how streetable it would be.

 

thats what destroys b20 sleeves, ign timing maps, dont use the stock b16 ones..way too much for the b20

 

I was told by a local shop that a B20 can use similar maps to an LS. They told me this when I was gonna do a simple B20 swap and told me that a PR4 OBD0 LS ecu would run it perfectly.

I am considering a B20 non-vtec instead of an LS for the increased displacement. Is it worth the extra .2L? It will cost me an additional $400-$500 to use a B20 block.

 

I'd say that a 10% increase in displacement over a b18 block is definitly worth $4-500.

Will the block not clean up at 84.5mm? or do you just want to make the motor as big as possible?

Would posting be a suitable alternative to running a block guard in this case?

 

If you are considering a block guard, I would measure the guard thickness as compared to the water jacket clearance. I just installed one (golden eagle) that pushed the cylinders to one side.

1 .26mm
2 .35mm
3 .35mm
4 .20mm

Idealy I would have liked to spend a little time modifing the guard to have an equal interference fit on all side and minimize the misalignment. If the cylinder is moved to much you may also have a problem with the head gasket sealing.
I had this particular block decked and 1mm over bore to try and clean things up.

 

With this setup I am staying non v-tec and will have Hondata S200 to tune with. So for the most part looks like I should invest in a block guard too. Also thanks for the replies and info!

 

why 85mm in a street car? i dont understand the theory of overboring right away to the max possible in a street car.

on a similar note why wiseco pistons and eagle rods? you plan on revving real high? i cant imagine going much over 8k and stock rods are fine for that with upgraded rod bolts.

i dunno, for a street motor id say keep it simple go with min overbore prolly 84.5mm cast pistons and stock rods and put the attention into the head, youll make a heck of a lot more power working the LS head over compared to building up the bottom end.

unless you see a ported vtec head skunkpro2 cams and 9krpms in your future that is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why 85mm in a street car? i dont understand the theory of overboring right away to the max possible in a street car.

on a similar note why wiseco pistons and eagle rods? you plan on revving real high? i cant imagine going much over 8k and stock rods are fine for that with upgraded rod bolts.

i dunno, for a street motor id say keep it simple go with min overbore prolly 84.5mm cast pistons and stock rods and put the attention into the head, youll make a heck of a lot more power working the LS head over compared to building up the bottom end.

unless you see a ported vtec head skunkpro2 cams and 9krpms in your future that is </TD></TR></TABLE>Well it's not really going to be a street car for me, more less the toy. I have a 98 Integra that's my daily. I did mention that I do have a ported head with Crower 404s that will be going with the block. As for why i used Wiseco and eagle rods, lets just say I ran across a very good deal on a bottom end that had it all in it. It was to good of a deal to pass up and since my block needed to be rebuilt for a spun bearing I was like why not.

 

What CR will be?

Iam already get crack the block with 85mm and 11.8CR two times.
Better way is, to go with 84mm and under 11.4CR.

 

On a stock b20 you can go 84.5mm
thats what i have 84.5mm rs itr cast pistons 11.5
compression on 91 oct runs like a champ.

 

Today I started my build and decided to take a few pictures.

 

nice...hopefully those sleeves hold up !!

 

looks like race gas only pistons 13:1+

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20beast978 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice...hopefully those sleeves hold up !!</TD></TR></TABLE>I hope so to, with a good tune they should but I guess time will tell.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scorchin Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope so to, with a good tune they should but I guess time will tell.</TD></TR></TABLE>I thought they where to be around 12 but your not the first person to tell me they will make it around 13 so I am just going to have to see what happens. Thank god the Civic that this will be going into will not be my daily driver.

 

you can take some material off the dome to lower the compression cant ya..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can take some material off the dome to lower the compression cant ya..</TD></TR></TABLE>Never thought about that, guess I will ask the shop and see what they say about it.

 

You could also try a thicker head gasket

http://www.raceeng.com/c-61-cometic-gasket.aspx

I'm putting together an 85mm daily driver and going to a track day in September, I guess well see who cracks 1st.

Good Luck

 

UPDATE: Had a little more time today to work on my build that I have been babying for ever. Placed the pistons in the block and thought I would share for you guys that are wondering what's been up with the build. I also order my Cometic head gasket today also and should get it in with in a week.