I need to install my clutch for my turbo setup sometime soon and a buddy of mine gave me a price of $200 and he will help me do it and get my flywheel resurfaced or $300 and he will do it all and get my flywheel resurfaced, I was basically wondering how hard is it to pull the tranny and do the clutch? is it worth paying the couple hundred for the help or is it pretty simple to do myself, and I was also wondering do I have to get my flywheel resurfaced like I was told or is this not true, and how much does that usually cost? thanks for any advice.

If you would suggest doing the clutch myself can anyone give me a brief rundown on the easiest way to pull the tranny. thanks.

 

I have a gsr motor by the way

 

bump

 

How much mechanical experience do you have. What's the most work you've done on your car yourself.

 

i do pretty much everything, from brakes, tune up, etc..ive installed all of my turbo setup so far but i just never have done a clutch or pulled a tranny before.

 

hrmm ok, sounds like you have a little knowledge of working on a car, the general run down is:
jack car up pretty high
pull the tires off
pull out front axles, and driver's half shaft
probably a good idea to remove the shift linkage
also a good idea to pull the hydro clutch line off
support the motor(when you drop the trany, the motor will lean all the way to the passenger side)
pull trany mount
support trany
pull trany bolts
once the trany is off you'll need
a 12 or 16 point? 10mm and 17mm socket to remove the flywheel and clutch bolts
replacing the rear main seal is always a good idea as its right there.
Then installation is a matter of reversing the above directions.
You'll need someone to help bleed the clutch line if you removed it.

I'm sure i've left of some stuff that others will hopefully list.

Cliffnotes: can be a bitch to do on the ground, being your first time this could be a 6-8 hour job, depending on your tools you may need to pick up some special ones that you might not already have. All in all once you have done one or two it really isn't that hard, especially on a lift!

 

thanks alot, one more thing, changing the clutch. Does that require resurfacing the flywheel? and about how much does that cost?

 

i wouldnt think any more than $60 bucks......

 

but is it a must?

 

do i have to loosen the big axel nut in the middle of the wheel? if i do what size is that 30mm? or is there a way to get around that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blakacintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks alot, one more thing, changing the clutch. Does that require resurfacing the flywheel? and about how much does that cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just had my brand new Fidanza balanced and resurfaced for $66.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blakacintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but is it a must?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It isn't a must, but it helps. I have heard that it improves the life of the clutch and flywheel. Definitely have it balanced though. When you're spinning at 8000 + RPM it is a great peace of mind to know that it is balanced.

 

bumpp

 

it was easier than i thought changing a clutch. i found a step to step through a google search on the site below, very helpful:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...h.php

i've done about four so far. nothing much to it besides torquing to right spec and alignment for installation, it's time consuming and dirty work. if you don't feel confident then i would suggest your friend doing it for you. resurface your flywheel or get a new one. what kinda clutch by the way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teddy_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it was easier than i thought changing a clutch. i found a step to step through a google search on the site below, very helpful:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...h.php

i've done about four so far. nothing much to it besides torquing to right spec and alignment for installation, it's time consuming and dirty work. if you don't feel confident then i would suggest your friend doing it for you. resurface your flywheel or get a new one. what kinda clutch by the way?</TD></TR></TABLE>


beat me... c-speedracing has a lot of howto articles. They dont mess around.

 

do i have to loosen that big nut in the middle of the wheel? isnt there a way to get around that

 

yes you must remove those axle nuts or else you wont be able to get the axles out. its not hard i just had someone hold the brakes and use a breaker bar and voila it comes off.

 

but i didnt loosen it n the axel is like almost out, tranny fluid starting coming out, i just need to make a little more play it seems like and it will just come right out..or is it not gona come out at all without doing that at all, i was told i can just make enough play and just pry the axel right out of the tranny.

 

If you try to do it w/out taking it off first, you will break ****. the nut has to come off.

 

what will i break, and how can i tell if it is broken

 

I have never broken anything before in this way because i have never tried to do that. However, i have changed many a clutch and brake pads and axles and, just recently, dropped the engine out for a swap. I know that this stuff has very tight clearances. It has to. Theres high loads of torque on these parts and it they didnt fit like a glove, axles and such would be popping in and out while going down the road and the life of the vehicles drivetrain wouldnt be very long. Make sense? Logic tells me (not trying to be an ***) that if it aint meant to come out in that way, dont make it come out, or **** will break.

 

Only way I could see getting that extra room, is disconnecting the control arms on the passenger side,
Then you should be able to push the axle out enough for it to pop out of the trans.

 

yea thats exactly what i did was move the control arms and the axel is ready to swing right on out of the way

 

I stand corrected. Never done it that way before.

 

and will this work on the driver side also?

 

on the drivers side you will have to unbolt the intermediate shaft which is held in by 3 17mm bolts i believe and it will slide right out of the tranny. much easier than the passenger side. you said the tranny was leaking oil?? youre supposed to drain it out in the beginning of the process.