Like the title says, the gas gauge says full all the time but the gas tank is empty. I just replaced the cluster because i thought that was the problem, but when i started the car the gauge just went up to full again. PLEASE HELP!!!! If it helps its a 1996 honda civic CX.

 

replaced the tank...imo

 

morning bump

 

replace the sending unit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace the sending unit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x3

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace the sending unit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x4

 

im having the same problem, where is the sending unit located?

 

its in the fuel tank. pull out the lower back seat there will be and access cover to remove to get to the fuel pump and sending unit

 

lift the lower back seat out, remove the access panel for the fuel pump, unplug the sending unit (it's a 3 prong plug), looking straight at it from left to right it's 1, 2, 3

You should be getting 5-8v with ur positive terminal in 2 and ur negative terminal in one, that shows that the harness is operative w/o shorts. By unplugging it and waiting ur fuel gauge should drop to 0.

Then take a jumper wire and jump pins 1 and 2, your gas gauge should start moving up towards full, make sure you pull it out b4 it reaches full or u can damage the gauge. If it moves - then the gauge is working and it's the fuel sending unit.

If it doesn't move at all (either from E or from full falling towards E) it's the gauge - and the wiring is fine.

Mine was doing that - but luckily when i was testing the plugs on the fuel sending unit, working them in and out got the problem out of the system, so try unplugging it and plugging it back in.

Also, if you jump the plug on the sending unit, check for continuity. Should be around 5ohm of resistance at full, and like 110 at empty - or maybe it's the other way around, but the point is, if ur resistance is off, it's the fuel sending unit.

Hope that helps.

EDIT:
PS: When you take off the service panel there's two "pods" - one's the fuel pump, the other's the sending unit, you want the sending unit, the fuel pump's the one w/ the two fuel hoses going to it and the one plug, the sending unit has 2 plugs going to it.

You don't need to take it out to check the continuity, just unplug the 3pin wire (think the other one's like a 6 or 8 pin).

And for god's sakes, get a helms.

 

Thanks guys. And ive got plenty of manuals ive "borrowed" from shops

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fook_me_honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys. And ive got plenty of manuals ive "borrowed" from shops </TD></TR></TABLE>

The helms manual has the exact diagnosis for this problem, I know because I had the same exact problem, and I diagnosed it according to helms.