alot of k24a1 questions pics inside
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2007
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Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (951BRO)
boost it damnit. boost boost boost. now now now. come on you no you want to..... peer pressure dont be skerred. looks like you gonna have a pretty bad ride when you get it built. but you should get a dirty little **** to blow that engine. lol
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: 951, ca
Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (94c1v1cex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94c1v1cex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya it's expensive... what car are you gonna put it in? </TD></TR></TABLE>
eg, my main concern are the sleeves, the prev owner told me i could run up to 350 horse and people have and they say the first things to go are the rods, but check out what i mean
d,b series motors are all steel and ductile iron perfectly round, these have alumnum and are in an oval shape with very little iron there to play with
eg, my main concern are the sleeves, the prev owner told me i could run up to 350 horse and people have and they say the first things to go are the rods, but check out what i mean
d,b series motors are all steel and ductile iron perfectly round, these have alumnum and are in an oval shape with very little iron there to play with
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 141
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Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (94c1v1cex)
yea i see what you mean but reliability is in the tune to a certian extent. but if you just throw on like 8-10 lbs youll be fine. but your right rods and pistons/rings are usually first to go.
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Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (951BRO)
you're picking up a k20a3 head? why? i sure as hell hope you know that head sucks. it only has vtec on the intake side and is comparable to vtec-e. 
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 337
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From: 951, ca
Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (doood)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're picking up a k20a3 head? why? </TD></TR></TABLE>
its 200 bucks w/ the alt, starter, im, tb, charge harness, mounts that boly up to the block, flywheel and dampner i need
its 200 bucks w/ the alt, starter, im, tb, charge harness, mounts that boly up to the block, flywheel and dampner i need
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Lake Jackson, TX, U.S.
Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (951BRO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 951BRO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THE K SERIES IS CHEAPER THAN THE B SERIES! </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm calling major bs on that bro...
that's even sig worthy lol
i'm calling major bs on that bro...
that's even sig worthy lol
Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (951BRO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 951BRO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its 200 bucks w/ the alt, starter, im, tb, charge harness, mounts that boly up to the block, flywheel and dampner i need </TD></TR></TABLE>
if you want to make serious hp NA, you do not want the a3 head.
if you want to make serious hp NA, you do not want the a3 head.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 337
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From: 951, ca
Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (doood)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you want to make serious hp NA, you do not want the a3 head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not even if i swap out the cam, valves springs, and open up the ports?
not even if i swap out the cam, valves springs, and open up the ports?
Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (951BRO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 951BRO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not even if i swap out the cam, valves springs, and open up the ports? </TD></TR></TABLE>
no. as i said it only has vtec on the intake side. you'd need a **** ton of work to even retrofit the a2 vtec system into it.
no. as i said it only has vtec on the intake side. you'd need a **** ton of work to even retrofit the a2 vtec system into it.
Re: alot of k24a1 questions pics inside (doood)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The RSX's K20A3, the Si's K20A and the CR-V's K24A1 use i-VTEC differently. First, it only operates on the intake valves. But even then, the philosophy is changed. Until the VTEC threshold is reached, the lesser K engines essentiality only use one intake valve per cylinder. The other is opened just a crack, enough to keep fuel from pooling behind the valve, but that's about it. In addition, the VTC is tuned primarily to keep emissions as low as possible. All this weirdness results in excellent swirl inside the combustion chamber and very efficient combustion. It's great for fuel efficiency and low emissions. However, it isn't so great for driving fun, as the engine inhales less deeply and revs lower.</TD></TR></TABLE>
from http://www.k20a.org
from http://www.k20a.org
u dont want a k20a3 head, u want a k20a2 head from the rsx type s...k series is NOT cheaper than b series...if you want to see my build i will post them up..i also got a k24a1 block building for boost thats gonna have a k20a2 head..the block alone cost me almost 4gs to build..
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 337
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From: 951, ca
Re: (ekb16)
can you post specs (specifics) ? just so i can get an idea of what i want to do? what did you do to modify the rotatig assembly and block to get it to be able to handle the boost that you want?
so you guys think even at 200 bucks the a3 head isnt worth my time? i mean **** thats cheaper than a bare bones b16a head
also i get all that stuff i need to perform the swap
so you guys think even at 200 bucks the a3 head isnt worth my time? i mean **** thats cheaper than a bare bones b16a head
also i get all that stuff i need to perform the swap
Re: (951BRO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 951BRO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you guys think even at 200 bucks the a3 head isnt worth my time? i mean **** thats cheaper than a bare bones b16a head</TD></TR></TABLE>
there's a reason it was so cheap. there's no demand for them.
there's a reason it was so cheap. there's no demand for them.
Re: (MonsterB20Ek)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonsterB20Ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my homeboy was pushin 650whp in his eg and then blew the block i dont think u need to sleeve it..</TD></TR></TABLE>
sleeves are good insurance. sure you can make 600whp on the stock ones, but for how long?
sleeves are good insurance. sure you can make 600whp on the stock ones, but for how long?
Re: (951BRO)
Originally Posted by 951BRO
can you post specs (specifics) ? just so i can get an idea of what i want to do? what did you do to modify the rotatig assembly and block to get it to be able to handle the boost that you want?
Sleeved by Import Builders (stage 2 king dominators)
Bored out to 88mm from 87mm
CP 9:1 cr 88mm pistons
IB spec piston rods
Stock crank thats been balanced+micropolished by Laskey Racing
K20a2 Oil pump
K20a2 windagetray
pretty close to 4gs including the longblock from the local slaveage yard
parts you need
Like the title says, I'm tired of seeing all the "what do I need for this" etc. posts and I really just hate saying "Search, you'll find answers." While the answers ARE out there they aren't 100% easy to find. I found them on the site, but I've also looked for a while.
This is what you want, THE K20/24 SWAP PARTS LIST. Items are also loosely categorized and are meant to be the cheapest possible way to complete the swap. Please keep in mind this may not be 100% accurate to what you want to accomplish but it's damn close! Here it is!
ENGINE/TRANNY (All gaskets/seals are considered "known to be needed" items)
----------------
K-series engine(K24/K20)
K-series tranny(Type-R/RSX-S/RSX Base)
K-series engine harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series charging harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series Alternator(For Engine of Choice)
K-series Starter(For Engine of Choice)
K-series ECU(RSX PRB 02-04) Plus Hondata K-Pro(Or JDM K-series ECU)
CRV Passenger side engine mount(needed for non-CRV K24 swaps)
Header(R-crew/DC/SSR)
Clutch/Flywheel(RSX-S)
RSX Type-S Oxygen Sensor(Primary)
RSX Type-S Knock Sensor(Only if not using RSX-S engine, Or repin stock Knock sensor)
RSX Type-S Clutch Slave Cylinder
RSX Type-S Halfshaft
RSX BASE Axles(For EG only, Swap inner joints)
RSX Type-S Throttle Body(Or Accord throttle body, depending on engine/intake)
RSX-S Intake Manifold(Or RBC/TSX/Accord)
Karcepts Throttle Body Adapter(only if using RBC)
Engine Mounts(Hybrid/Avid/Hasport)
Harness Conversion(Hybrid/Hasport)
Clutch Line(Hybrid Racing)
RADIATOR/COOLING (This is for using stock radiator)
-----------
Hasport Billet Hose Adapter(For Stock B/D series Fan switch/coolant temp sensor)
Perma-Cool PRM-19120 11"x10" Fan
TOP Rad Hose - RSX Type-S Top Hose(for EK/EG)
BOTTOM Rad Hose - 99-00 Civic Si Top Hose(for EK/EG)
SHIFTER PARTS
-----------
Karcepts Shifter mounting kit
RSX Type-S Shifter Box
RSX-S 02-04 Shifter Cables
Shift Parts to Connect Cables (OEM, easy)
EXHAUST PARTS (Must be custom welded, Can substitute for 2.5")
-----------
Kteller 3" Stainless Piping
3" in/out Muffler
Catalytic Converter if you choose to use one.
FUEL SYSTEM PARTS (Using stock fuel rail, minimum costs)
------------
(http://www.summitracing.com)
EAR-991945ERL - Converts OEM fuel filter to -6 AN fitting
EAR-165056ERL - Converts OEM fuel rail to -6 AN fitting
RUS-610020 x 4 - Straight -6 AN Hose couplers
SUM-220166N x 3 - Straight cut -6 AN to -6 An hose, Ports on FPR.
RUS-610160 - 90 Degree -6 AN Coupler from fuel filter to FPR.
RUS-632070 - 10 feet -6 AN Hose
AEI-13109 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Walbro 190/255lph Fuel Pump(It's cheap, and worth it - http://www.hybrid-performance.com)
IF REMOVING POWER STEERING(with no A/C)
-------------
EP3 Idler pulley/bracket
Manual Steering rack, Or Loop P/S rack
K24 = 52" Serpentine Belt(works perfectly on mine)
K20 = 50.5" Serpentine Belt
IF KEEPING POWER STEERING (No A/C - With a current P/S rack)
-------------
K20 PS Pump
Jackson Racing Pulley - P/N: 052-154 (This will clear an EG hood with K20 swap, no hole...only cutting.)
52" Serpentine Belt(only for K20 - K24 = Unknown?)
02-04 RSX High pressure hose
3/8" I.D. hose
Oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries P/N:1007 (for P/S fluid return line)
Fluid NEEDS:
-------
POWER STEERING FLUID - 2 Bottles
DOT3 Brake fluid - 2 Bottles
Coolant 50/50 Mix - 2 Bottles(3 to be safe/cover leaking or spillage)
MTF - 3 Bottles
OIL - 6 Quarts
RANDOM HOSES (Not totaly acurate for ALL swap configurations, keep in mind O.D. and I.D. measurements)
-------
10' 3/16" I.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
10' 1/4" I.D. Hose
10' 3/8" I.D. Hose
5' 3/4" O.D. Hose
5' 1" O.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
MISC BOLTS/Parts (This is mainly used if you buy Engine/Trans apart from one another)
-------
90034-P10-A01 X 6 clutch bolts
90011-PNA-B00 x 8 flywheel bolts
22103-PNA-003 pilot bearing
95701-12060-08 x4 tranny bolts
95701-12085-08 x 2 starter bolts
90027-PND-A00 starter bolt long
90025-PNA-000 bolt
95701-08055-08 x 2
90008-PNA-000 x 2 alternator bolts
90008-PPA-000 bolt
21351-PNB-000 cover for tranny to connect k24a with k20a2 type s tranny(only K24)
95701-06012-08 x 3 bolts
MAIN SITES TO USE:
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/
http://www.thehondapartsstore.com/
http://www.acuraparts247.com/
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp
http://www.summitracing.com
http://www.jhpusa.com
http://www.hasport.com
http://www.hybrid-racing.com/
http://www.karcepts.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/ (cheap hard to find OEM parts)
http://www.rcrewracing.com
http://www.sixsigmaracing.com/home.htm
http://www.motors.ebay.com/ (you can save a lot if you look for deals)
This should be absoloutley EVERYTHING you need to complete a K20/24 swap, Minor variances will be there as this list is meant for an EG only because It's what I own :silly: However it should be 95% of what you need for EK/DC2 aswell.
That should be it, Correct me if you see something wrong. Hopefully this stops all the "Zomg what do I needz" posts...
This is what you want, THE K20/24 SWAP PARTS LIST. Items are also loosely categorized and are meant to be the cheapest possible way to complete the swap. Please keep in mind this may not be 100% accurate to what you want to accomplish but it's damn close! Here it is!
ENGINE/TRANNY (All gaskets/seals are considered "known to be needed" items)
----------------
K-series engine(K24/K20)
K-series tranny(Type-R/RSX-S/RSX Base)
K-series engine harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series charging harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series Alternator(For Engine of Choice)
K-series Starter(For Engine of Choice)
K-series ECU(RSX PRB 02-04) Plus Hondata K-Pro(Or JDM K-series ECU)
CRV Passenger side engine mount(needed for non-CRV K24 swaps)
Header(R-crew/DC/SSR)
Clutch/Flywheel(RSX-S)
RSX Type-S Oxygen Sensor(Primary)
RSX Type-S Knock Sensor(Only if not using RSX-S engine, Or repin stock Knock sensor)
RSX Type-S Clutch Slave Cylinder
RSX Type-S Halfshaft
RSX BASE Axles(For EG only, Swap inner joints)
RSX Type-S Throttle Body(Or Accord throttle body, depending on engine/intake)
RSX-S Intake Manifold(Or RBC/TSX/Accord)
Karcepts Throttle Body Adapter(only if using RBC)
Engine Mounts(Hybrid/Avid/Hasport)
Harness Conversion(Hybrid/Hasport)
Clutch Line(Hybrid Racing)
RADIATOR/COOLING (This is for using stock radiator)
-----------
Hasport Billet Hose Adapter(For Stock B/D series Fan switch/coolant temp sensor)
Perma-Cool PRM-19120 11"x10" Fan
TOP Rad Hose - RSX Type-S Top Hose(for EK/EG)
BOTTOM Rad Hose - 99-00 Civic Si Top Hose(for EK/EG)
SHIFTER PARTS
-----------
Karcepts Shifter mounting kit
RSX Type-S Shifter Box
RSX-S 02-04 Shifter Cables
Shift Parts to Connect Cables (OEM, easy)
EXHAUST PARTS (Must be custom welded, Can substitute for 2.5")
-----------
Kteller 3" Stainless Piping
3" in/out Muffler
Catalytic Converter if you choose to use one.
FUEL SYSTEM PARTS (Using stock fuel rail, minimum costs)
------------
(http://www.summitracing.com)
EAR-991945ERL - Converts OEM fuel filter to -6 AN fitting
EAR-165056ERL - Converts OEM fuel rail to -6 AN fitting
RUS-610020 x 4 - Straight -6 AN Hose couplers
SUM-220166N x 3 - Straight cut -6 AN to -6 An hose, Ports on FPR.
RUS-610160 - 90 Degree -6 AN Coupler from fuel filter to FPR.
RUS-632070 - 10 feet -6 AN Hose
AEI-13109 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Walbro 190/255lph Fuel Pump(It's cheap, and worth it - http://www.hybrid-performance.com)
IF REMOVING POWER STEERING(with no A/C)
-------------
EP3 Idler pulley/bracket
Manual Steering rack, Or Loop P/S rack
K24 = 52" Serpentine Belt(works perfectly on mine)
K20 = 50.5" Serpentine Belt
IF KEEPING POWER STEERING (No A/C - With a current P/S rack)
-------------
K20 PS Pump
Jackson Racing Pulley - P/N: 052-154 (This will clear an EG hood with K20 swap, no hole...only cutting.)
52" Serpentine Belt(only for K20 - K24 = Unknown?)
02-04 RSX High pressure hose
3/8" I.D. hose
Oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries P/N:1007 (for P/S fluid return line)
Fluid NEEDS:
-------
POWER STEERING FLUID - 2 Bottles
DOT3 Brake fluid - 2 Bottles
Coolant 50/50 Mix - 2 Bottles(3 to be safe/cover leaking or spillage)
MTF - 3 Bottles
OIL - 6 Quarts
RANDOM HOSES (Not totaly acurate for ALL swap configurations, keep in mind O.D. and I.D. measurements)
-------
10' 3/16" I.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
10' 1/4" I.D. Hose
10' 3/8" I.D. Hose
5' 3/4" O.D. Hose
5' 1" O.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
MISC BOLTS/Parts (This is mainly used if you buy Engine/Trans apart from one another)
-------
90034-P10-A01 X 6 clutch bolts
90011-PNA-B00 x 8 flywheel bolts
22103-PNA-003 pilot bearing
95701-12060-08 x4 tranny bolts
95701-12085-08 x 2 starter bolts
90027-PND-A00 starter bolt long
90025-PNA-000 bolt
95701-08055-08 x 2
90008-PNA-000 x 2 alternator bolts
90008-PPA-000 bolt
21351-PNB-000 cover for tranny to connect k24a with k20a2 type s tranny(only K24)
95701-06012-08 x 3 bolts
MAIN SITES TO USE:
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/
http://www.thehondapartsstore.com/
http://www.acuraparts247.com/
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp
http://www.summitracing.com
http://www.jhpusa.com
http://www.hasport.com
http://www.hybrid-racing.com/
http://www.karcepts.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/ (cheap hard to find OEM parts)
http://www.rcrewracing.com
http://www.sixsigmaracing.com/home.htm
http://www.motors.ebay.com/ (you can save a lot if you look for deals)
This should be absoloutley EVERYTHING you need to complete a K20/24 swap, Minor variances will be there as this list is meant for an EG only because It's what I own :silly: However it should be 95% of what you need for EK/DC2 aswell.
That should be it, Correct me if you see something wrong. Hopefully this stops all the "Zomg what do I needz" posts...