hey guys, i've been lookin around at some of the slips posted and information on here seeing some of you guys with some very good launchs.

I would concider my self a pretty decent driver (by no means the best), but i can't seem to get the nice launch that some of you are able to do. I'm doin like 2.1 in the 60 and would really like to see something better, i'm hoping that some of you more experienced drag racers might be able to share some tips that would help me beat up on some of the rwd guys at the track.

My current setup:
Hasport Mounts (boosted b18 in EG)
Lakewood Traction Bars
GSR Tranny with OBX LSD
Sway bars
Skunk2 Coil overs with Tokico 5-way adjustables. (set soft up front, stiff in the back)
BFG Drag Radials

I get no wheel hop what so ever. Just can't seem to pull off a good launch.. i'd like to see like a 1.8 or 1.9 60ft. time.

Over all i'm seeing high 12's on 12-13psi (t3/t4 .60/.63 topmount setup)

Any help on my launch would be greatly appreciated, i'd like to improve what i have before upping the boost to conpensate for my errors.

 

Just curious but how do you launch?


I personally improved my off the line with preloading

However you could install a trans brake would help

Depending on how serious you are about killing the 1320

also curious to know what your spring rates are front and back?

 

I usually heat the tires up with a nice burn-out and then roll up to the starting line.

I've been launching at about 4500rpm's or so where the car will spin just a bit and seems to have enough power at that rev so that when the drag radials catch it doesn't bog the motor.

I was previously launching softer than that so that the car wouldn't sit & spin but when the tires caught, it would bogg the crap out of the motor and then slow me down before i got going.


I'm afraid that if i launch at a higher rpm that my car will just sit & spin on the line....

(also: the clutch is an ACT extream pressure plate with 6 puck unsprung disk, if it matters)

 

I will keep an eye on this thread... I too need help with launches...

 

trans brakes = auto's only.
they lock first and reverse at the same time, drop button, drops reverse car goes forward. you may be thinking line locks. they are completely different.

 

well what sixe rim & tire do u have. aslo tire pressure needs to be around 12-18psi.

preloading will help out alot. it will allow u 2 launch a little higher rpm without tacking out. & wont jerk the tires loose as much as well.

i was running 17inch rims with 225-40-17 gf's & was cuting conssitant 2.0s all day with accational 1.9s. this was with a stock stock gsr with a 50shot full weight stero.

preloading will help alot. but hurt the clutch a little. aslo i had a stage 2 kevlar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well what sixe rim & tire do u have. aslo tire pressure needs to be around 12-18psi.

preloading will help out alot. it will allow u 2 launch a little higher rpm without tacking out. & wont jerk the tires loose as much as well.

i was running 17inch rims with 225-40-17 gf's & was cuting conssitant 2.0s all day with accational 1.9s. this was with a stock stock gsr with a 50shot full weight stero.

preloading will help alot. but hurt the clutch a little. aslo i had a stage 2 kevlar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wheel: 14 Inch
Tire: 225x60x14 BFG Drag Radial
Tire Pressure: 13psi

Once again, my clutch is unsprung

 

I started preloading and I have been hitting 1.69 to 1.71 consistently
and I use 2step here is the set up

2step at 6200 10psi
Te37 wheels
24.5X8X13 M/T (8psi)
Tien Flex with EDFC set to 4 Front 0 Rear(0 being hard)
T-Force Traction bars
Type R LSD
Stock Axles

 

what exactly is preloading? i know you can do it in automatics but how do you do it with a stick?

 

are you guys on slicks just dumping the clutch off the two step or are you slipping/feathering the clutch out of the whole and then mashing it? i know on radials its best to slip/feather the clutch but wasn't sure about slicks. to the guy above, preloading is allowing the drivetrain to engage slightly so that when you launch there isn't any slack and it helps not break things. it is achieved by ripping the e-brake and disengaging the clutch to where the car feels like it is about to start moving.

 

doesnt matter is your clutch is unsprung. "preloading" witch is slipping the clutch will heat the disk up & wear them out quicker.


u cant really tell someone how to drive unless your thier seeing what the car is doing. cause seeing it & felling it are 2 diff things. driver cant remember everything going on

keep it up you will get thier

 

preloading drag radials is really useless the only thing your going to get out of that is a cooked clutch in a short period of time...

with Drag radials Dont be concerned about the 60'...its the 330' that is going to make the difference.

last season I was a consistant 1.8 on bfgs...granted my power output was a good bit higher but that did not have an effect coming out of this hole

Get the car moving before you let the the clutch out all the way...rev it to like 5000 start slipping the clutch the floor and release its some sort of preloading but not really...

8-11psi in the tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmfkid250 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with Drag radials Dont be concerned about the 60'...its the 330' that is going to make the difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so what roll out slow then hit the gass. makes no sence. 60 ft is everything when it comes 2 ET

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so what roll out slow then hit the gass. makes no sence. 60 ft is everything when it comes 2 ET</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he is saying to slip the clutch out of the hole = not side stepping it, then WOT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so what roll out slow then hit the gass. makes no sence. 60 ft is everything when it comes 2 ET</TD></TR></TABLE>
what im sayen get the car moving before you side step the clutch


I have been on bfg's for 2 years with some very respectful passes on them
60' dosent mean **** as long as your under a 2.0
I have pulled a 1.94 60' then a 4.90 330' and went 11.10....
granted the 1.94 sucked but i made up for it in the 330'

jim hucks will tell you the same thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmfkid250 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what im sayen get the car moving before you side step the clutch


I have been on bfg's for 2 years with some very respectful passes on them
60' dosent mean **** as long as your under a 2.0
I have pulled a 1.94 60' then a 4.90 330' and went 11.10....
granted the 1.94 sucked but i made up for it in the 330'

jim hucks will tell you the same thing</TD></TR></TABLE>

listen to this dude. I have learned a lot from talking launching with him.

 

This is strange, I’m running a similar set-up to the guy who started the thread, ATB, 225/50/15 BFG’s (10, 12, 14 psi)ACT 6 puck sprung clutch.
I pre-load (learned that from here) balance the revs to the point were I launch and the wheels are spinning but I have sufficient forward motion until the tyres bite then nail it.
Best time yet is 2.0 on the BFG’s and that’s with a good burn out?
I cut 1.9 to 2.0 on my 205/50/15 Toyo Prox (Street tyres at 15psi)

I would like to think I have the launch under control now but I'm not 100% sure the BFG's work that well at the track I use?

Wish I had the answer, don't want to run full slicks just yet.