791xv premeditated install. 1996 Integra LS coupe. DC2

Now I have no idea if this will work but I want to be thoroughly planned out before I begin. I’m looking for suggestions and help for what will work and what will not work, and if there is an easier way of doing something.

What I wish to achieve: Keyless entry. Tilt sensor. Proximity sensor. Backup battery. And hood pin. NO remote start. 2-way pager.

Referenced suspededhatch’s write up… this is just how I understood the write up and how I applied what I read to what I currently have in front of me.

DC2 wire scheme, link from susupendedhatch’s site. [http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com...gra94-01.html]

Assuming that all alarm peripherals are already in place, it’s again just a matter of wiring the brain and sensors and the DC2 wiring.

Harnesses in use: h1, h3, remote start ribbon, sensor port for shock sensor is used for the proximity sensor, door lock harness (part of directed resistor interface pack), Not using harnesses, h2, h4, and heavy gauge inline connector key switch interface.

DEI – wiring harness and colors

H1/1 – red/white – (-) 200 mA channel 2 validity output
H1/2 – red – (+) constant power input (powered from first fuse block on left)
H1/3 – brown – (+) siren output
H1/4 – not in use
H1/5 – black – (-) chassis ground
H1/6 – violet – not in use
H1/7 – blue – (-) multiplex input, zone 4
H1/8 – green – (-) door trigger input, zone 3
H1/9 – black/white – (-) 200 mA domelight supervision output
(pin 85...12V+ constant
pin 86...black/white wire from brain
pin 30...to your door trigger wire
pin 87...to a ground source)
-wrx-killer-Sti eater/jz98ctr

H1/10 – white/blue – not in use
H1/11 – white – (+)/(-) selectable light flash output
H1/12 – orange – (-) 500 mA Armed output

H3/1 – black/white – (-) neutral safety switch input
H3/2 – violet/white – tachometer input wire
H3/3 – brown (+) break shutdown wire
H3/4 – (-) hood pinswitch input, zone 1
H3/5 – (-) 200 mA 2nd status/rear defogger – latch/pulsed

Remote start ribbon/1 – pink/white - 200 mA (-) programmable ign2/acc2 relay turn on
Remote start ribbon/2 – yellow - (+) ignition input to alarm
Remote start ribbon/3 – pink - (-) 200 mA ignition relay turn-on
Remote start ribbon/4 – orange - (-) 200 mA accessory relay turn-on
Remote start ribbon/5 – purple - (-) 200 mA starter Relay turn-on
Remote start ribbon/6 – orange/black - (-)antigrind/ground when armed output
Remote start ribbon/7 – blue - (-) 200 mA status output

*Door lock harness/1 – light blue - (+) lock (-) unlock output
*Door lock harness/2 – not in use
*Door lock harness/3 – green - (-) lock (+) unlock output

*I would just cut the harness from the directed resistor interface pack

WIRING

Antenna, LED, Valet:
All plug directly into brain

Hood Pin: 1 wire gray
Spliced to H3/4

Tilt Sensor: 3 wires red/green/orange
Red taps into H1/2
Green spliced into H1/8 with diode
Orange into H1/12

Proximity Sensor: 4 wires green/blue/black/red
Plugs directly into sensor port (shock sensor will not be in use)

Back up battery: grey/blue/black
Grey spliced with hood pin H3/4 (2 way pager)
Blue spliced to H1/8 with diode
Black to chassis ground

Internal Siren: 2 wires red/black
Red tapped into H1/3 with inline 3A fuse between brown and red (from siren in engine bay)
Black chassis ground

Engine Bay Siren: 2 wires red/black
Red spliced to 3A inline fuse then spliced to H1/3
Black chassis ground

Door Trigger/Domelight: 1 wire green
H1/8 tapped into DC2’s light green/red (-) passenger side

Parking Light:
H1/11 tapped into DC2’s red/black driver side

Ignition 12V:
Remote start ribbon/2 tapped into DC2’s black/yellow and nothing else from the ribbon is in use.

Doorlocks:
Door lock harness/3 tapped into DC2’s black/white (lock)
Door lock harness/1 tapped into DC2’s black/red (unlock)

Please let me know if I forgot to include anything and if this will or will not work, I understand that it is a lot of work to read what I just typed out, and to reference the dei wiring harness diagram and the DC2 wiring diagram, but I do really appreciate any and all effort for those who made it this far in reading my post. im deciding if I should just return this and get a basic alarm with out a pager… thanks for any input.




Modified by projektCRX at 9:09 AM 6/20/2007


Modified by projektCRX at 6:43 AM 6/21/2007


Modified by projektCRX at 6:43 AM 6/21/2007

 

everything seems good. you don't need to use resitors on the teg door locks. just tag the blue and green wires straight to the door lock triggers in the car. Tip, the lock wires only test on the passanger door. also leave the window done when you work on the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everything seems good. you don't need to use resitors on the teg door locks. just tag the blue and green wires straight to the door lock triggers in the car. Tip, the lock wires only test on the passanger door. also leave the window done when you work on the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for your op, and reading through it. my only intention from using that "resistance pack" is just to use the 3 wire harness, i didnt find a 3 wire harness in my box...if im not mistaken it should be a 3 wire harness the first pin should be blue, second pin empty and 3rd pin green. so was just going to cut that blue red green 3 wire harness and use it to directly wire my door triggers on the teg.

haha yah id hate to have my keys in the car and it gets armed. im laughing becuase that may have happened, i never thought about leaving the window down. its all about preventing mistakes and working in a clean enviroment, good tip!

 

Ditto what Killer said.
But if you are not going to use remote start, return it and get just an alarm.

Whatever you end up installing, start by removing, [depinning] any and all wires not being used, with the Viper 791xv you will need the yellow lead in the ribbon cable, [connection between main unit and relay satellite unit] it is the ign. input to the main unit. 94

 

because i dont know , i will ask why this is done.... ?

"Cut the black/white (negative dome light output) wire and tie it together with the green (negative door trigger input) wire."

yes, thanks for the depinning tip, seems to make things cleaner and more simple, less wires to deal with and follow

im going to wait till have the battery back up mod and sensor, and then its time to get started... pics and progress will be noted if anyone is interested in knowing.

killer u got a pm.. thanks.

 

use a relay on the dome light supervision. If not it will blow the output on it. The newer 791 will not take the load. Its only 200ma. The resistor will get hot and blow. Trust me I did it allready.

 

H1/9 – black/white – (-) 200 mA domelight supervision output (cut and spliced to H1/8)

yea DO NOT do that!

do as wrx said...use a relay to control your domelight supervision circuit. right out of the brain it's only a 200mA output... so trying to activate your domelight with that output directly will just end up burning out part of the circuit board inside the brain. A simple SPDT or SPST relay and 4 wire connections and you're done.
pin 85...12V+ constant
pin 86...black/white wire from brain
pin 30...to your door trigger wire
pin 87...to a ground source

just in case you need a picture...
http://www.installdr.com/TechDocs/999403.pdf
hope this helps

 

nice.. again thanks for the tip it has been noted.. i will buy one this thursday SPDT relay..

 

no need to. I shipp one with the back up battery and tilt sensor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no need to. I shipp one with the back up battery and tilt sensor </TD></TR></TABLE>

this guy is the man^

 

yeah he is! good lookin out homie!

about that relay.. can i tap off the constant 12v im sending from the fuse block. or do i need to send another constant 12v

and the door trigger you are referring to is that the H1/8 off the brain (door trig in) since H1/8 will already be tapped into the DC2s green/red..

If i understand it correctly....
if pin 86 triggers TRUE then the relay now cuts it off and makes pin 85 send 12v to pin 30..pin 87 is then just grounded.


Modified by projektCRX at 6:53 AM 6/21/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projektCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah he is! good lookin out homie!

about that relay.. can i tap off the constant 12v im sending from the fuse block. or do i need to send another constant 12v

and the door trigger you are referring to is that the H1/8 off the brain (door trig in) since H1/8 will already be tapped into the DC2s green/red..

If i understand it correctly....
if pin 86 triggers TRUE then the relay now cuts it off and makes pin 85 send 12v to pin 30..pin 87 is then just grounded.


Modified by projektCRX at 6:53 AM 6/21/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you're using a thick enough 12 volt feed for everything you don't need to tap from another source.

you can flip-flop the 85 and 86 pins...they are just either sides of the relay's internal coil. so technically you can put 12v+ on 85 or 86 as long as you put your black/white domelight supervision wire off the brain to the other pin. when you place a 12v+ signal to pin 85/86 and a ground signal (black/white) to the other 85/86 pin...internally the relay connects pins 30 and 87....when the ground signal is taken away from pin 85/86 the relay connects pins 30 and 87A.

you can tap the door trigger to the car's wire itself or to the alarm's wire going to the car's wire....either one will work.

 

perfect, im using 14g primary stranded, cuz i have alot of it.. i really appreciate everyones help. haha its practically laid out for me, just need to get the last few peices and hopefully next week thursday, it will be a done deal.

 

just take your time when you're doing it to check and double check that everything is working properly. i like to check if things work as i go along...this way you don't think you're finished and put the car back together and come to find out the locks don't work or some ****. just take your time and double check the wires you're gonna tag into for the alarm before you go and cut anything lol.
solder and tape/heat shrink FTW!

 

Let the install begin... its 841am... time to get started....... . . . . . . . . .