i just got my drag gen 3 turbo yesterday. i have a small leak in my radiator, so i need to replace that. im also thinking about changing the clutch, transmission, and brake fluid. some other things that are gonna be replaced is the valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets. (i got a set of NGK sparkplugs with the kit). is a fuel pressure gauge necessary when running a drag 3 turbo with the FMU that comes with the kit? this is my first attempt at installing a turbo, so im trying to take extra precautions. what do you guys think about my pre-turbo install preparations? and do you guys think im missing anything.

these are the parts that came with the kit.
• Master Power .60 trim hybrid T3/t04e turbo charger
- .63 AR exhaust side
- .50 AR compressor side
• Tial 38mm Wastegate .5 bar (100% Authentic)
• Drag front mount intercooler w/ polished tanks, core dimensions = 24x3x7
• BLITZ dual drive Blow Off Valve
• Drag mandrel bent high flow powder coated intercooler pipes
• Drag 2.5” mandrel bent high flow exhaust down pipe
• Drag wastegaste dump tube
• Heavy Duty silicone hose and hose clamps
• Drag 255 inline Fuel Pump
• Drag 12:1 Boost dependent FMU fuel regulator
• Drag Intake air filter assembly
• Drag Billet Map sensor bypass
• Stainless steel braided oil feed line w/ fittings
• Oil return assembly
• Free NGK Spark plugs for turbo street cars part #BCPR7eS-11
• Free Megan Boost Gauge

 

well it seems like youre not too concerned about money with replacing all of that stuff, so I would really recommend ditching the FMU and getting some real engine management. A chipped obd1 ecu, either vtec or not depending on what kind of engine its going in. And get it tuned...

Also, a fuel pressure gauge isnt totally necessary.

You will need a clutch, depending on how much power you want to run, so i would definitely try to replace that.

Your transmission doesnt really need replaced unless somethings wrong with it, or you are looking to upgrade.

If you wanna go all out, go aheadand get an Limited slip differential, because youre fgoing to want it if youre pushing any more. With the little amount of power Im making, I lose traction midway through second gear, and sometimes even a little in third.

Usually the kits are pretty complete, so I think you're going to be oka with what you have.

Get an oil pressure gauge though, as well as an oil fitting to either mount where the stock oil sending unit is, and run a steel braided line from that to your new aftermarket oil sending unit, or get one of those little oil plate adapters and run it off of that.

I think that amy be it, i may be back in a little to give you more info

 

um few questions why are you going to change the transmission for? i understand the clutch cause it could start slipping but... ok anyway dont use the FMU, sell it. Use hondata or crome anything other then a FMU or afc hacks, they suck. Another thing is dont drive it around untunned. Get it tuned right aftrer the install. And you should really have put this in the forced induction. And also for the radiator you could use a 99 si radiator just in case you ever ewant to change the turbo, or manifold

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numbnuts22715 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well it seems like youre not too concerned about money with replacing all of that stuff, so I would really recommend ditching the FMU and getting some real engine management. A chipped obd1 ecu, either vtec or not depending on what kind of engine its going in. And get it tuned...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

+123456

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

+123456</TD></TR></TABLE>


^^^^ that's the guy to talk to about the chipped ecu.
His basemaps are good, it'll for sure get you right to the tuner.
Sometimes it feels like his basemap was as good, or almost even better than it was after I got it tuned..
His basemap started up perfectly whereas my tune doesnt. But I'm getting that sorted out.

Hondata would probably be one of teh easiest options,there aer a lot of tuners that can tune it. Next up would probably be crome, its cheaper as well. Neptune probably has the fewest tuners, there are only a few in my state, whereas everything else has quite a few. If you need any other help, you can pm me.

 

money is a concern to me. i dont wanna get ripped off and i like getting things for a great deal. i think it would be better to fix small problems right away before it gets bigger and costs a load more to fix.

radiator: i have considered the 99 si radiator, but will it still work if i wanted to keep my ac? i live in a desert area so its necessary during the summer.

gaskets: so changing the valve cover and spark plug gaskets sound like a good idea?

fluids: the reason why im considering changing out the transmission, clutch, and brake fluid is because i dont know when the previous owner of the car last changed it. how much oil or any fluids am i gonna need for the install?

should i fill the car with higher octane gas before the install or after im completely done with the install?

so the fuel pressure gauge isnt necessary and you recommend me getting an oil pressure gauge.

thanks to those that given me their input

 

the half sided radiator(civic si, eg, del sol vtec) or whatever will work with a/c
Its smaller, so it gives you even more room

I dont think its necessary to replace the gaskets, unless theyre leaking. I didnt replace any of mine, and its running fine.

Feel frree to replace all of the fluids, I thought you were saying you were going to switch to a whole new transmission., but definitely, do the fluids. Maintenance is good.

yes, I would fill it up with better gas now. Make sure you have only the higher octane gas in it. The tuner will probably ask what octane you're running, 91, or 93 if you have it, are what he would want to hear.

and the last sentence is right.

Have you given any thought to ditching the fmu and getting a real form of ems?
Hondata is one of the more expensive versions.
If you want something a little cheaper, but as reliable, neptune is a great option.
A little cheaper than that would be crome. All 3 are very good, and very popular.

you need to get a chipped obd1 though. This is ojne thing I cannot stress enough, it's very important to get a good tune. Without the tune you could very easily blow your engine and waste all the money you've put into getting the turbo and everything

 

i will probably have to pick up a radiator and fan then right? what price range should i be looking at for those? also, would it matter if i bought an oem or aftermarket one?

as for the fmu: i have not planned to get rid of it yet. if i plan to upgrade parts on my turbo THEN i will probably upgrade to an EMS. i know it will make a major difference in my turbo setup, but im taking this one step at a time. this is my first ya know.

 

you can get an aftermarket one. In the sponsor marketplace, I believe theres a slim fan and radiator combo for like 140 or something like that..really cheap and everybody that's bought it seems to like it so far.


Since this is your first, you should probably do everything the right way. Having a first bad experience could turn you away from it forever.That's one thing I cannot stress enough, I would never run my car with only an fmu.

Timing often needs changed when youre boosting, an fmu cant do that

 

will any of these work and be a/c compatible?
http://www.hondamarketplace.co...11601

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1935810

if not, can someone find me one that will work so i have an idea?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1935810

Thats what I would go with.

The radiator is ont he opposite side ofthe a/c compressor, so youll have no problem.

you really dont even need an upgraded radiator and slim fan, you can get anything.

He only suggested the half size in case you ever decide to upgrade your manifold or turbo.

 

im leaving room for a possible upgrade in the future, so i think it would be wise for me to go with the half size now.

im pretty excited, i have the next 2 days off, so im gonna get started tomorrow.

 

Well good luck, I hope everything goes well.

Are you going to get a boost controller to turn up the boost? or are you going to leave it ayt the wastegate's spring setting?

 

wastegates spring setting for now. just like many other things, i will upgrade, eventually. thanks for your help. youre one of the few HT members that actually help.

 

no problem man., Im glad I could help.
If you need anything else, feeel free to PM me.

 

Another tip...

I'd be really paranoid if I ran an inline fuel pump. Chances are you'd never blow a line off, but hey you never know. You might be fine with constant upkeep (If you boost you better be ok with that), but I couldnt take the risk, especially if you can buy an intank pump for under $100.