Ok folks I think I have decided on the GT3076R with a .63 AR Turbine housing.

It seems like it has all around better spool characteristics for drag racing/street/roadracing compared to the .82 AR.

The Set Up:

Engine:
OBDI GSR w/ stock sleeves

Forged Pistons, Billet Rods, ARP Head Studs
(will install internals later on down the road after turbo system is installed)

Hasport mounts (already installed)
CTR Intake Cam (already installed)
AEM Cam Gears (already installed)
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold (already installed)
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket (already installed)
EDIT: Blox Turbo manifold was thinking Revhard before (AC COMPATABILITY AND TRYING TO KEEP THE COSTS DOWN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE)
EDIT: GT3076R .63 AR turbine 5 bolt T3 housing
38 MM wastegate
Precision 600Hp bar and plate Intercooler
3 inch down pipe
3 inch exhaust with Kteller 18" 3" diameter resonator, 80MM Apexi World Sport universal muffler
Walbro Fuel Pump
750-780CC injectors
B&M fuel regulator (already installed)
Hondata S300
PLX wide band 02
AEM tru boost/gauge controller

Drivetrain:
4:40 Final Drive 96 Type R tranny with OEM LSD (already installed)
Spoon 8lbs Flywheel (already installed)
Competition Stage 5 Clutch

My goals: (once motor is built) while retaining A/C and keeping full streetabilty

99 Civic DX coupe appoximatly 2350 pounds without me in it before the turbo install, I'm not sure how much weight I will add with the turbo system in place

400-500WHP
11's on pump gas with 225 BFG drag radials
Hold my own with my EVO buddies on the road course
10's with race gas on 24.5 M&H slicks

Is this possible to do while retaining A/C?

Anyone have any experience with a 1.8 GSR with a log and a GT3076 .63 turbine housing on the street?

Thanks in advance




Modified by So Cal So Boosted at 3:47 PM 6/17/2007

 

Sure its possible but your going to have some weak points in your build. For one if your trying to retain that amount of WHP it would be wise of you to consider investing in some sleeves. Sure guys have made high numbers on stock blocks but I would have to say the reliability factor is a bit sketchy. Is this something you hope to keep for some time or do you not care if it blows up in a month? Also, I would stay away from that log manifold. Its obvious you spent a good amount of money or your going to spend a good amount of money on that GT3076R! Why bolt it to a log? I would advise you to look into a mini-ramhorn, ramhorn, or a topmount as they have more to offer than a log.

 

i have a drag manifold and i had to flip my gt3076r around and run a half size radiator. otherwise the compressor housing would hit my block. make sure the fitment is good

 

It was a tight fit but I've got a gt3076r .82 with a fullrace kit. We had to shave the block ever so slightly to make it clear teh compressor housing. It also put it in a weird angle so to put a filter on the inlet we had to route a 4" intake. It barely cleared my pwr civic radiator/slimfan. Maybe a log will give you some more clearance. I made 350whp @ .7bar on my wastegate spring before we turned it up.

If you plan on keeping stock sleeves you might want a smaller turbo. Like a gt2871r or gt3071r. This thing will make a 500whp+ on a nice flowing head. With stock sleeves you won't be able to run it like it wants for very long without hurting the motor.

 

Yeah John I think we should put the compressor on driver side. Not sure if that could be done with revhard mani + AC.

Dude you live by the beach you don't need AC. Tell you what, you ditch the AC and I'll finally ditch my PS

AC ~ 70lbs
Turbo system ~ 70lbs

You might want to sell that flywheel before it gets eaten.

 

You should talk to someone from Hybridynamics. They've used the GT30R on Inline Pro manifolds, and it looks really clean. I can't find the large pics, but here is a link to one of their cars:

http://www.hybridynamics.com/g...efcbe

I don't know if they used the 4 bolt, or 5 bolt housing from ATP Turbo. I think you'll have problems with the 4 bolt.

Eric (username DontBlink) is one of the owners of Hybridynamics and should be able to help you. I think he also had the same setup before switching to another manifold.

edit - I removed the image because it's not loading, and probably causing too much traffic on their site.




Modified by Sprockets at 1:09 AM 6/16/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dude you live by the beach you don't need AC. Tell you what, you ditch the AC and I'll finally ditch my PS

AC ~ 70lbs
Turbo system ~ 70lbs
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're going to need the power steering when you run your bias plys up front! Trust me!

I need A/C I'm not always by the beach and I'm a stickler for my hair getting messed up , running with the windows down is like driving with a parchute behind you

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> For one if your trying to retain that amount of WHP it would be wise of you to consider investing in some sleeves. Is this something you hope to keep for some time or do you not care if it blows up in a month? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I will only be pushing 500WHP at the drag strip on race gas...maybe once or twice a year if that. The rest of the time will be low boost on the street 400whp -425whp at most.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I would stay away from that log manifold. Its obvious you spent a good amount of money or your going to spend a good amount of money on that GT3076R! Why bolt it to a log?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm trying to keep the cost down as much as possible. I have seen the AC ramhorns out there and the runners are so close to condenser, not sure how efficient the air conditioning will be after that

I've looked at the Spoolin Fast4AC mani....but 650 bucks for a manifold is steep for a unit that will barely outflow a decent log.

I've looked at the Inline Pro log manifold which is pretty decent compared to the revhard..but it is still 500 bucks

Anyone know of a moderately priced A/C compatable manifold?

 

So Cal So Boosted, I'm sure you can find a used Inline Pro manifold used for cheap. I'd rather have a used stainless Inline Pro than any other brand new log. BTW, I wasn't trying to get you to buy something from the business I mentioned above. I just thought he'd be able to help you, but I guess you're not interested.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sprockets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So Cal So Boosted, I'm sure you can find a used Inline Pro manifold used for cheap. I'd rather have a used stainless Inline Pro than any other brand new log. BTW, I wasn't trying to get you to buy something from the business I mentioned above. I just thought he'd be able to help you, but I guess you're not interested.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with you completly. I didn't mean my comments to be derogatory in anyway, I'm sorry you took it that way. I really appreciate your input
I have seached some GT30R threads and actually looked at the set up DontBlink has, as well as his feature on Tunerzine, his set up actually conviced me to go with the .63 housing, I just didn't say anything.

Right now I'm leaning toward a log for better spool. It will most likely be an Inline Pro albiet used or new, unless I can find something with just as good a design for a better price....hmm sounds like a bussiness idea

 

GT30R

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by So Cal So Boosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't mean my comments to be derogatory in anyway, I'm sorry you took it that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I didn't take it that way at all. I was just confused that you didn't say anything. Good luck with your setup!

 

some things to think about:

-larger injectors 880s at least for 500whp.

-if you plan on running a road course you might want to go full core radiator instead of A/C and half core.

-if you are getting a different manifold might want to think about getting a 44mm wastegate.

-dont use the b&m regulator they have known issues.

the gt3076r with a .63 is an amazing turbo for a street car. my buddy has it so far on 21psi hes making 496whp. ran 11.02@127 at the track first day out. turbo has a bit more in it. but its stock sleeves, and stock ITR head so he didnt want to push it too far.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike@synapse motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

-if you plan on running a road course you might want to go full core radiator instead of A/C and half core.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean? Is it possible to run a full core radiator and A/C with an Inline Pro log? Taking out the A/C is not an option at this point, global warming you know

 

Do they make a Blox A/C compatable B-series manifold? I have only seen non-a/c versions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by So Cal So Boosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do they make a Blox A/C compatable B-series manifold? I have only seen non-a/c versions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have the compressor on the passenger's side, you could probubly build a DP that will allow you to keep A/C.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by So Cal So Boosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What do you mean? Is it possible to run a full core radiator and A/C with an Inline Pro log? Taking out the A/C is not an option at this point, global warming you know </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your civic has a half core rad, and A/C condenser. He's (and me as well)reccomending that you should pull out the A/C to run a full length rad. If your serious about road racing, you would swap in a full length for sure.

I can't even imagine how many cars I've seen overheat at our local track.

 

Happy Fathers day people!

I read that if you get the 5 bolt discharge for the turbine housing you have more room. This is on T3/T4 turbos, so I am assumming the same applies for a GT30R unless the compressor section is alot larger than I think it is.

When you get the 5 bolt flange, it supposedly clears more so you don't have to shave the block as much, and it's possible to fabricate a 3" downpipe and still clear the A/C. What about if you run a v-band? Anyone ever run this set up?

Project DC2 can you confirm?

Thanks guys!

Modified by So Cal So Boosted at 3:51 PM 6/17/2007


Modified by So Cal So Boosted at 4:44 PM 6/17/2007

 

3 inch Dp can be fabricated on the blox manifold with the 5 bolt turbine housing

however

your compressor housing also has to be an E housing ( 3 inch inlet 2 inch outlet)

 

I'm just curious why that is. Mine's not installed, but has a 4" inlet and 2" outlet. I plan to use a new fan either in a push or pull configuration for my a/c, to free up some room, and I really don't mind sticking with my Inline Pro 2.5" downpipe. Do you think this will work? I gotta have a/c!

 

E housings are physically smaller then S housings. good lucking getting a S cover to fit with an A/C manifold.

 

I thought the only obstacle when mounting this turbo to a T3 manifold was getting the 5 bolt ATP housing?

 

why not just get the whole manifold, dp, dump, and gt from spoolin?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">E housings are physically smaller then S housings. good lucking getting a S cover to fit with an A/C manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are there any downside to running a smaller compressor housing? Does the turbo's efficiency go down at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by So Cal So Boosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are there any downside to running a smaller compressor housing? Does the turbo's efficiency go down at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only depending upon the compressor and exhaust wheel combination. In most cases under 61mm, you're more than fine with the E as opposed to the S cover. I have some applications that are still in an orginal "B" cover, and still make over 450whp without a loss in efficiency

 

Mac, I'm glad you posted. I STILL haven't put the turbo I bought from you on my car! I guess I need a second car for down time, lol. In my case, I planned to install a pusher fan for the a/c, as I mentioned above, to clear up space. Judging from the picture in the link I posted, do you think this is possible? Otherwise, could you swap compressor housings for me? I don't know the exact specs on the turbo, other than we used the ATP .63 a/r 5 bolt turbine housing.