the car has 92Kmiles on it...

here's the thread i made with pics of the old dizzy cap&rotor https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1984229
also noticed that the accord takes a while to start after its been sittin for a few days , also also a piece of one of the 4 contacts chipped off a litle, increasing the gap to the rotor, maybe making that cylinder get less of a spark runs fine, but sometimes when ill be rollin thru a parkin lots at ~3mph and hit the gas it clunks! idk what that is, maybe not enought spark or detonation, but thats the only time it does that---dont know if thats the dizzy stuff or not, but that was after fooken up the dizzy cap sooo idk

cliffs: few people said in my thread that the dizzy and cap were fine (before i fooked it up)

so: i bought a new dc&r that may or may not fit on my car (i have F23A1 VTEC)

i say it may or may not fit, cuz accordin to mrgasket.com it fits, buut

PICS!:




http://www.accel-ignition.com/...dId=3
see, it says DX, but then it says (TEC) :scratches head: buut its got 2 rotors!!

soo again, do i reallly need the cap and rotor, how much is the OE honda one, will the one i bought fit?

also really gotta know if just keeping the dizzy and gettin this here ACCEL coil would be better?

http://www.accel-ignition.com/...dId=3



anyone know how much that coil costs btw?

 

bump i need some answers yo

 

I am trying to read and understand your Ebonics, so if I get something wrong, its not my fault.

You car is a 2000 accord, right? From the other post, the rotor looks fine. An ignition spark will jump a good distance and you would have to a large gap for it to create problems. Through the 12 years of troubleshooting ignition problems, I doubt the new cap and coil will fix your problem.

Your problem is intermittent, meaning it is not continuous or the problem would have to happen at every revolution of the engine or cylinder firing sequence.

When a car sits for a few days it will be harder top start. Whats important is that driven daily it starts every time easily (I am assuming).

When you hit the gas and get a "clunk", what is happening? Is something hitting metal to metal, is the engine stalling, does a clown hit your trunk with a rubber hammer...? I need some details. Standard or auto, was this in gear or out of gear?

When you are rolling at a very low rpm and gun it, the fuel and timing maps are not fine tuned at low rpm because of the many variables at that point to tune for. I have tried to tune a haltec at that point and its very difficult. I am assuming that you are creeping along and nail the gas. That is hard on an engine and don't suggest doing that. Get the engine above 1000 RPM before you nail it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jabontke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am trying to read and understand your Ebonics, so if I get something wrong, its not my fault.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>
FTR

 

alright thanks man, the distributor capa nd rotor i bougt, mr gasket Gsport, clear, part number 11069 &lt;--for search purposes DID NOT EVEN FIT!!

and the coil is i think 80 bucks around there maybe

noo im not a ricer lol racing in parking lots (well not anymore)

ill be rolling around slow, in Drive, at idle for a while, just coasting, then hiut the gas like normal amybe a 1/4 inch of pedal and it makes a knocking sound, like it bogs a little but thats the only time it does that