help, new turbo manifold wont mate with the turbo
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looks like u need to flip the turbo around, and get a new down pipe made, or knotch the webbing of the block,but even that looks like it wont clear


I'd say put the turbo on the manifold, then put the DP on and clock the cold side so it clears everything.
Was the DP made to work with that manifold? It looks like its gonna come out goofy when you get the turbo on the flange.
Was the DP made to work with that manifold? It looks like its gonna come out goofy when you get the turbo on the flange.
It actually looks like the DP might be 90deg off. Unbolt the downpipe, get the turbo clocked so you can bolt the turbo onto the manifold, then try to attach the downpipe. Although if the downpipe wasnt built for the turbo manifold then it may not mate up right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1baddturbosi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no. the dp was made for the turbo. so loosen the bolts on the compressor side & it should turn???</TD></TR></TABLE>
turbos are universal. you need to make sure you have a mani and dp made to work together. as mentioned above the turbo can be rotated. you should have gotten a dp when you ordered the spoolin mani. what mani were you using previosuly??
turbos are universal. you need to make sure you have a mani and dp made to work together. as mentioned above the turbo can be rotated. you should have gotten a dp when you ordered the spoolin mani. what mani were you using previosuly??
if that setup was based off another manifold then you're gonna need to make a new DP, or at least a new top elbow for it, and probably redo the first charge pipe section as well. The manifold controls the placement of everything that connects to the turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1baddturbosi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, will the compressor side move???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not if you loosen the bolts on the exhaust housing. Doing that will allow you to rotate the exhaust housing only. If you loosen the bolts on the compressor housing that housing will move, if you loosen the bolts on both sides you can adjust everything (compressor, CHRA, exhaust housing) independently, but it's easier to do one at a time.
Not if you loosen the bolts on the exhaust housing. Doing that will allow you to rotate the exhaust housing only. If you loosen the bolts on the compressor housing that housing will move, if you loosen the bolts on both sides you can adjust everything (compressor, CHRA, exhaust housing) independently, but it's easier to do one at a time.
if the down pipe is oriented correctly, clocking will not allow the flanges to meet. unless it is v banded. if it is studded and bolted, the exh flange can not be clocked independently to the down pipe flange.
IF the flange on the dp is studded and IF thats how it is bolted up, chances are that the flange will have to be cut off, repositioned, to allow the mani flange to meet the turbine inlet.
IF the flange on the dp is studded and IF thats how it is bolted up, chances are that the flange will have to be cut off, repositioned, to allow the mani flange to meet the turbine inlet.
but on sunday im having it tuned. so im thinking for the time ill put the old manifold back on have the aem tuned, then fix the downpipe & install the new manifold.
would there be any issues doing that???
would there be any issues doing that???
Clock the turbo first. If you are able to clock it 90 degrees or so the downpipe will still mate up correctly with the turbo since you have a standard 4 bolt housing.
If not, have a friend who can weld drop by, cut the dp as close as you can to the flange, and reweld it in the correct direction.
Honestly, not that hard.
If not, have a friend who can weld drop by, cut the dp as close as you can to the flange, and reweld it in the correct direction.
Honestly, not that hard.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like a simple clocking of the turbo should do..and cut the webbing off the block..</TD></TR></TABLE>



