I thought I would post this for anyone racing an auto honda..... how you do it in detail, I know there isen't much involved, but any tricks of the trade to get slow autos 60' times down are always helpful..

I personally powerbrake about 2000 rpm and go... but my best 60' was 2.734 which is crappy even for an auto...

 

N-Bomb dude
N-bomb (rev it to 3000 in neutral, when the tree goes green drop it into D)

(im kidding, dont do that)

powerbraking is the best/only way to launch an auto.

 

hahahaha it works, might even get a 2.3 60ft, N drop it at the track for best times, its only a SOHC tranny. its a dime a dozen. $150-$200, if you want best results spen $450-500 and convert to MT

 

Don't have a Honda but the damn thing is an auto. The only safe way to do it is powerbraking it. Mine won't let me past 2k. The best thing to do is get a manual swap. As soon as I can find one for my car I'm getting it. Tired of slow *** automatic piece of crap!

 

if your gonna power brake do 3 things.........

1) Get a tranny cooler, heat kills fluid.
2) powerbrake as little as possible, heat kills
3) change fluid every 10-12K miles, again heat kills!

Now DO NOT rev all the way up to the stall point of the verter. stay about 300-400 below stall to allow it to "flash" when you launch.

 

good call.... but what do you mean by "flash" according to helms stock stall speed is something around 2600rpms or so... I think the brake can only hold about 2000 and change rpms anyways.... but the tranny cooler is a plus... I've been slackin on getting one

 

usually a converter will "flash" when launched about 400 rpm above stall.

For example, my 86 TA with corvette convertor stalls at 2200 rpm IF the brakes decide to hold. I will launch good for what it is. But by going to a 1700-1800 rpm stage rpm, the converter will "flash" to about 2600 rpm upon launching and the nose points upwards alot more. This also has alot to do with available traction.

True stall speed depends on the brakes also.

BTW looking at my helms, it takes 2.9 quarts for a tranny service (drain and fill) but a overhaul needs 6.2 quarts! I know the convertor doesn't hold THAT much ATF! More of a reason to change ATF often.

 

Yea I was wondering the same thing... I'm assuming when I follow the helms directions for "changin" the tranny fluid it will only dump about 3 quarts out for me to refill... but i guess I'll see

 

yah man u need to get that thing to hit at least a mid 14

 

IM fastvtecCL. His 3.0CL can hits a 2.0 60ft all day long.

His best time to date is a 13.7 @ 102mph.

 

Care to explain the mods? track locations/conditions, tires? the whole 9 yards? I find it hard to believe an auto ESPECIALLY a honda auto hit 2.0 60' times.... it amazes me on no end.

 

I am a newbie, what is power braking??

 

http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/li...;s%2013.76.MPG

99 3.0 CL with I/H/E, Zex, pullies, and a bunch of other crap I can't tell you about.

 

what is so amazing about that? all you need is a high power to weight ratio and good traction. if you lightened your heavy auto by about 600 lbs, you would be amazed to no end at how your setup could net you 2.2-2.1 60's all night long on stock street tires. and then imagine slicks...not drag radials. from comparing numerous similar setups including auto's, the lighter car just happens to always be faster...simple physics.

 

honestly... N bombs work, but they kill the tranny. SO NO N-BOMB!!

my technique wont work for you... i have torque to get me off the line so i dont even need to powerbrake. however by pulling out excess weight, it will definitely help.

 

haha...yes they do work. i was doing them at 5k rpms on 175/70/13 balding tires and was getting 2.1-2.2 60's. my car is close to 2k lbs though. i was trying to destroy the auto so i could convert it. weekly racing and full throttle downshifting daily, killed mine in under two months. i was getting 2.5 60's when i tried to brake launch. i did that maybe two or three times.

 

that's pretty funny