Is there a best Camber Angle for EK (EK4, as more specific model). I've just add a set of BLOX rear camber kit, and have it set to +1.3 degree on both. Is that a nice setup? Coz I'm really not sure. Is the stock setting about half degree? so does +1.3 too much? I'm having 205/50/15 RT-615 tires....

Please advice...thx thx thx thx......a lot

 

Camber angles for what purpose?

A street car: whatever lowering provides
A race car: entirely tire and suspension dependent
A drag car: something close to 0 under launch squat

 

Just quicker daily street driving.....quicker means just about 80~100 km/h in general speaking... but If I follow your first answer "A street car: whatever lowering provides", I think my tires are gonna die very soon. before the camber kit...it was +2.4 degree...and it's Falken tires...even faster....so, I'm looking for better cornering performance and not too much tire ware...

Hope anyone can helps....

 

Anyone? Any recommendation??....

 

? ? ?

 

Did you get an alignment after you lowered?

 

I'm kind of a noob at this but I don't believe you want postive camber at all. Lowering the car should have given you increased negative camber, which is not necessarily a bad thing.

Do you know what is the stock camber? I think you would want to be at stock or maybe a bit more negative than that.

Of course, when you get it set how you want it you need to get the car aligned and set the toe to zero or you'll wear your tires out fast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xelloss &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just quicker daily street driving.....quicker means just about 80~100 km/h in general speaking... but If I follow your first answer "A street car: whatever lowering provides", I think my tires are gonna die very soon. before the camber kit...it was +2.4 degree...and it's Falken tires...even faster....so, I'm looking for better cornering performance and not too much tire ware...

Hope anyone can helps.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope you mean -2.4* after lowering. If it went positive, um, something is bent. An EK4 is a 6th gen Civic, right? A wishbone based suspension should never go into positive camber under bump (unless designed as such, and Hondas are not).

I've been daily driving for 1 year with -4.0* of front camber, 0 toe. Tire wear is very close to perfectly even across entire tread surface. Measured with a tire tread depth gauge (yay, $0.99 discount bin), I'm 1/32" more worn on the outside shoulder.

So, yeah, 9,000 miles, and the "camber wear" I was supposed to be expecting (wear on the inside of the tire) is not only not present, but that section of the tire has more tread than the opposite side. And I think most people would agree that -4.0* of camber is an extreme enough case that I should suffer from any issues that excessive camber truly cause.

I'd say -2.4* is right around the "sweet spot" for a lowered street car. I wouldn't worry about it until you get past the -3.0* range, in which case, raise that car up, as you're obviously way too low.

And please don't get hung up on the manufacturers settings. Those are for a stock car, on stock spring rates, at stock ride height, being driven under assumed conditions, and assumed normal driving "style" (how hard you corner, how hard you accelerate, etc...). Because of that, the recommended camber setting doesn't apply to a modified car, or even one driven differently than the manufacturer intended.

Factory specifications of my weekend car (1979 Triumph Spitfire) are -3.75* +- 1* of rear camber. That means my current -4.75* of camber is within factory spec (on the edge of it, but still considered acceptable). So, if -4.75* is acceptable camber on the drive wheels (rear wheel drive) according to the manufacturer, how bad can -2.4* be on a Honda? This is a terrible argument, but I'm throwing in in here for perspective. Just because Honda says -1.0* of camber is recommended, doesn't mean all other values are bad, or even that they're worse.

 

For the street -1.5 front and -.5 rear is a decent setting. The harder you drive the more you can use. I wouldnt go more than -3 to -4 front and -1.5 rear. Just make sure your toe angles are set properly. Front you can have 1/8th inch toe out rear 1/8 toe in or so. Or you can set it to 0 if you want the best tire wear but that will reduce your turn in response.

 

toe will kill more tires than camber. Make sure you get an alignment.

 

You can try setting 0 degree at the rear and keep the front camber stock, it's works pretty goodon turning and saving tires, but the front tires die really quick

 

not sure what the best angle is but stock front should be from 0 to -1 deg and rear should be from 0 to -2 degrees of camber for an EK. If you are not looking to be road racing or whatever just put camber in front -.5 deg and back as close to 0 as you can without hitting the tire on the fender! How much did you lower the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supra_000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not sure what the best angle is but stock front should be from 0 to -1 deg and rear should be from 0 to -2 degrees of camber for an EK. If you are not looking to be road racing or whatever just put camber in front -.5 deg and back as close to 0 as you can without hitting the tire on the fender! How much did you lower the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

0* camber in the rear will make the car somewhat tail happy, all things considered (assuming aftermarket suspension with higher rear rates than front, and a decent rear anti-sway bar). -2 front and -1.5 rear is a good street setup for camber, anything more positive than -1.5 rear will make the car tend to feel like oversteering more. I think even for street driving with most aftermarket spring rates, 0 rear camber is slightly hazardous. Someone correct me if I'm way off in stating that.