H22A1 vs K20A
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: franklin square, ny, United States
i have a 90 CRX Si, that is litarelly a rolling cage, nothin but a cage and a rolling body, no dash, no wires, nothing...
I want to build the car intially for drag and maybe drive it on a nice day. this will NOT be a daily driver.
Currently I bought a H22A1 (190hp) with ECU and full harness to put into my 91 accord wagon...
Question is simple:
Which engine should I go with?
The '93 H22A1 (190hp@6800, 148tq@5500) that I have.....
OR
a K20A (type-r) (220hp@8000, 152tq@7000) that i originally wanted to get...
The K20A would cost approximately 12K to put in the crx...would run about 11-12 sec in the 1/4.
The H22A1 would cost approximately 7K to put in the crx..would run about 12-13 sec in the 1/4.
K-Series Pros:
- K20 wieghts less than the H22.
- newer than the H22.
- despite what most say, the k swap is easier than the h swap when you compare the two.. (less body mods to make it fit)
- Future Mods.
K-Series Cons:
- not too many people have done it (which can be a good thing)
- too new, no real good mods available (besides the **** everyone knows)
- wouldn't be cost effective to rebuild the motor for performance, too new...
- k20A (type-r) i hear is bad for turbo, runs better N/A
H-Series Pros:
- Good horsepower to torque ratios when you compare rpm levels
- been around longer, more mods available.
- good to turn turbo eventually..
H-Series Cons:
- Alot heavier than k20a
- handling becomes a nightmare, if suspension isn't setup right..
- requires heavy modifcation to the crx to fit
if u had to choose between the two motors which would you choose?
I want to build the car intially for drag and maybe drive it on a nice day. this will NOT be a daily driver.
Currently I bought a H22A1 (190hp) with ECU and full harness to put into my 91 accord wagon...
Question is simple:
Which engine should I go with?
The '93 H22A1 (190hp@6800, 148tq@5500) that I have.....
OR
a K20A (type-r) (220hp@8000, 152tq@7000) that i originally wanted to get...
The K20A would cost approximately 12K to put in the crx...would run about 11-12 sec in the 1/4.
The H22A1 would cost approximately 7K to put in the crx..would run about 12-13 sec in the 1/4.
K-Series Pros:
- K20 wieghts less than the H22.
- newer than the H22.
- despite what most say, the k swap is easier than the h swap when you compare the two.. (less body mods to make it fit)
- Future Mods.
K-Series Cons:
- not too many people have done it (which can be a good thing)
- too new, no real good mods available (besides the **** everyone knows)
- wouldn't be cost effective to rebuild the motor for performance, too new...
- k20A (type-r) i hear is bad for turbo, runs better N/A
H-Series Pros:
- Good horsepower to torque ratios when you compare rpm levels
- been around longer, more mods available.
- good to turn turbo eventually..
H-Series Cons:
- Alot heavier than k20a
- handling becomes a nightmare, if suspension isn't setup right..
- requires heavy modifcation to the crx to fit
if u had to choose between the two motors which would you choose?
While k seems to be the new b I would go with the h.
Gives you more money to play with on other things like getting it to launch!
But maybe I'm biased I have an H in a crx
I'm retiring the gsr for a K...
I basically wanted to go faster in a straight line, and I originally wanted to go turbo, but after researching a little, the K won my heart..
I basically wanted to go faster in a straight line, and I originally wanted to go turbo, but after researching a little, the K won my heart..
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: franklin square, ny, United States
actually...the k swap is looking better in the long run, as i read more about the h swap crx, its good but the H22A puts out the same HQ as the K20A but the K series is lighter... and requires less mods to the car..
as stated, I'm runnin a completly stripped crx, so i can build it the way i want...(beside i already have the si-r guage cluster, needed for K20 swap)
money is not the object here... if i have to wait a few more months to save a few more thou..
I'm looking to be different than the B18 GSR Crx's runnin around...
also keep up with, if not beat the scion TC's runnin around and the supercharged tiburons...
Originally I was thinking about goin K20A as stated with a 6 speed LSD tranny...
Recently I found out about "H2B", H series motors with B series tranny's....so that's y the sudden interest in putting the H22 into the crx....
Basically my mind is made up, I'm just looking for an intelligent answers on which motor is better for overall performance (cornering included)?
as stated, I'm runnin a completly stripped crx, so i can build it the way i want...(beside i already have the si-r guage cluster, needed for K20 swap)
money is not the object here... if i have to wait a few more months to save a few more thou..
I'm looking to be different than the B18 GSR Crx's runnin around...
also keep up with, if not beat the scion TC's runnin around and the supercharged tiburons...
Originally I was thinking about goin K20A as stated with a 6 speed LSD tranny...
Recently I found out about "H2B", H series motors with B series tranny's....so that's y the sudden interest in putting the H22 into the crx....
Basically my mind is made up, I'm just looking for an intelligent answers on which motor is better for overall performance (cornering included)?
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haha the k20a jdm type r can handle 30 psi stock making about 588hp
idk how much better for turbo you can ask for out of a stock engine.
id go k if you got the money
do something different and learn alot more then the next guy.
idk how much better for turbo you can ask for out of a stock engine.
id go k if you got the money
do something different and learn alot more then the next guy.
k hands down.. all day long. no more timing belt to change, higher revs out of the box, next generation engineering, 6speed factory lsd available, stock 11 second ride etc etc etc..
then throw in boost, and if you can get enough traction, youll probably go deep into 10's and maybe high 9's on a stock block. I dont think you could build a muscle car that runs 10's for cheaper than that. thats a whole other can of worms however.
k-series is the new b-series. i know thats what i am going to go with eventually. i would go with a b20 before an h22 otherwise.. but thats just me.
i still havent seen an f20c swapped ef.. so if you want to be unique..but i think that whole direction of rotation thing has people jacked up though.
k-series FTMFBBQW
then throw in boost, and if you can get enough traction, youll probably go deep into 10's and maybe high 9's on a stock block. I dont think you could build a muscle car that runs 10's for cheaper than that. thats a whole other can of worms however. k-series is the new b-series. i know thats what i am going to go with eventually. i would go with a b20 before an h22 otherwise.. but thats just me.
i still havent seen an f20c swapped ef.. so if you want to be unique..but i think that whole direction of rotation thing has people jacked up though.
k-series FTMFBBQW
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dylan_surrender »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha the k20a jdm type r can handle 30 psi stock making about 588hp
idk how much better for turbo you can ask for out of a stock engine.
id go k if you got the money
do something different and learn alot more then the next guy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
idk how much better for turbo you can ask for out of a stock engine.
id go k if you got the money
do something different and learn alot more then the next guy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
H series is not that much heavier, dispite the claims of what people say. IT's a common misconception due to the size of the engine.
But since I've helped Bart pull his K out of the KRX, I will always push the K series cause hot damn is it ever an easy swap!
But since I've helped Bart pull his K out of the KRX, I will always push the K series cause hot damn is it ever an easy swap!
If you have the cash go K and you'll never look back. Im doing an H because well I got the motor for free but if I was paying for it the K would be my only consideration. There isnt anything wrong going with an H but the K is just where it is at.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dylan_surrender »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha the k20a jdm type r can handle 30 psi stock making about 588hp
idk how much better for turbo you can ask for out of a stock engine.
id go k if you got the money
do something different and learn alot more then the next guy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can I just go ahead and raise the BS flag until I see this claim verified?
I find it hard to believe, K series or not, that the engine would happily run 30 pounds without blowing up for any real amount of time.
idk how much better for turbo you can ask for out of a stock engine.
id go k if you got the money
do something different and learn alot more then the next guy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can I just go ahead and raise the BS flag until I see this claim verified?
I find it hard to believe, K series or not, that the engine would happily run 30 pounds without blowing up for any real amount of time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dylan_surrender »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it really easy? what are some of the problems you came across</TD></TR></TABLE>
We only pulled the engine. But he said other then the welding of the mount, and having Rywire do the wiring, it's pretty much a plug and play setup now. You do have to mod your shift assembly from linkages to cable. That's the hardest part more then likely. But I must say, pulling it out was as easy as a D series.
With the new alternator relocating kit, you don't even need to cut your headlight frame.
We only pulled the engine. But he said other then the welding of the mount, and having Rywire do the wiring, it's pretty much a plug and play setup now. You do have to mod your shift assembly from linkages to cable. That's the hardest part more then likely. But I must say, pulling it out was as easy as a D series.
With the new alternator relocating kit, you don't even need to cut your headlight frame.
why does everyone think that an H is heavy....it is not...i say go H2B...its already fast stock...stock k20 in a eg hitting 13s...stock h2b in a eg...i believe 12s and plus timing belt is not going to go bad if you throw in a h23 timing tensior and h swaps are easier than Ks and if you go H2b then you will actually save money cause you will be using B series mounts...i say H2B hands down
Not a fan of either really, but the K gets my vote of the two. My sig says why, D for me.
H2B isn't ready for the 4th gen yet anyways, just 5th gen from what I've read on HT.
H2B isn't ready for the 4th gen yet anyways, just 5th gen from what I've read on HT.
i totaly understand that. and it doesnt run it reliably but ive seen in person. no proof of this a car that was running 30 psi for about an hour revving hard and then boosted to about 42 when it blew halfway through second gear.
i wasnt saying "buy a k cuz then you can run 30psi stock" i was simply making a statement showing the ability and obviously potential of a k. it is the new b.
i wasnt saying "buy a k cuz then you can run 30psi stock" i was simply making a statement showing the ability and obviously potential of a k. it is the new b.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: franklin square, ny, United States
what k motor was it? from what i've read the K20A3 (i think) the civic Si motor is good for turbo
but the K20A2, and K20A are not, due to the higher compresion and lower clearance between the head and the piston in the combustion chamber... and if i'm gonna speend about 6K just for the motor/tranny/ecu combo, than I don't really want to take my chances testing that turbo theory... let someone else blow up there motor....
I'm just trying to decide which is a better swap.. the crx is a 2yr project, probably won't get up and runnning till next summer (thats the plan)...
I have my daily driver, 91 accord wagon, with a blown head gasket that the motor was originally bought for, but i had second thoughts about puttin in the car.. thought maybe it might be better in the crx....
but i can see that the K is the way to go..
but the K20A2, and K20A are not, due to the higher compresion and lower clearance between the head and the piston in the combustion chamber... and if i'm gonna speend about 6K just for the motor/tranny/ecu combo, than I don't really want to take my chances testing that turbo theory... let someone else blow up there motor....
I'm just trying to decide which is a better swap.. the crx is a 2yr project, probably won't get up and runnning till next summer (thats the plan)...
I have my daily driver, 91 accord wagon, with a blown head gasket that the motor was originally bought for, but i had second thoughts about puttin in the car.. thought maybe it might be better in the crx....
but i can see that the K is the way to go..
k is.
but theyre will be road bumps.
personly id say go with a built h. in a rex itd be faster then you could handle haha.
im almost positive it was a k20a2 from the usdm type s
ALL-MoToR559
9:10 AM 6/12/2007
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why does everyone think that an H is heavy....it is not...i say go H2B...its already fast stock...stock k20 in a eg hitting 13s...stock h2b in a eg...i believe 12s and plus timing belt is not going to go bad if you throw in a h23 timing tensior and h swaps are easier than Ks and if you go H2b then you will actually save money cause you will be using B series mounts...i say H2B hands down
i one hundred percent garountee you that an h is not beating a k time wise on the track. stock or built or turboed. and with a k theyres a timing chain. so it wont wear out either.
i agree. h2b. its more logical and plenty fast. unless you got to much money and need to spend it fast. and also are prepared for unseen road bumps with the k.
but theyre will be road bumps.
personly id say go with a built h. in a rex itd be faster then you could handle haha.
im almost positive it was a k20a2 from the usdm type s
ALL-MoToR559
9:10 AM 6/12/2007
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
why does everyone think that an H is heavy....it is not...i say go H2B...its already fast stock...stock k20 in a eg hitting 13s...stock h2b in a eg...i believe 12s and plus timing belt is not going to go bad if you throw in a h23 timing tensior and h swaps are easier than Ks and if you go H2b then you will actually save money cause you will be using B series mounts...i say H2B hands down
i one hundred percent garountee you that an h is not beating a k time wise on the track. stock or built or turboed. and with a k theyres a timing chain. so it wont wear out either.
i agree. h2b. its more logical and plenty fast. unless you got to much money and need to spend it fast. and also are prepared for unseen road bumps with the k.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16Z6racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H2B isn't ready for the 4th gen yet anyways, just 5th gen from what I've read on HT. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah i havent heard of anyone doing this yet
Yeah i havent heard of anyone doing this yet
F2b should be the same as H2b, check out the build threads that've been going on lately. I'm going H22 + new final drive myself, but only because I'm a broke college student that'd rather spend the 4k saved on housing haha
.
If I had the immediate money to drop on a new swap though, it'd definitely be a k20. Gotta keep an eye on the future; especially if your project is going to be completed in two years
.
.If I had the immediate money to drop on a new swap though, it'd definitely be a k20. Gotta keep an eye on the future; especially if your project is going to be completed in two years
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIXTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah i havent heard of anyone doing this yet </TD></TR></TABLE>haha actualy theres quite a few track cars that are pro built and privatly built and owned with k20 crx's
aftermarket hood needed for clearences other then that not to different from an eg
also slight fabricating. i know honda tuning magazine did one in theyre full track crx... they went through the whole thing
Yeah i havent heard of anyone doing this yet </TD></TR></TABLE>haha actualy theres quite a few track cars that are pro built and privatly built and owned with k20 crx's
aftermarket hood needed for clearences other then that not to different from an eg
also slight fabricating. i know honda tuning magazine did one in theyre full track crx... they went through the whole thing


