I know there is already a great write up by "Eran" and some others but they're for the EK chasis and when I went to them last some of the pics were red Xs so here's a new one(not many pics, but I think it's pretty good). As a side note my '93 del sol did NOT have any swaybar when I got it but it did have a beaks kit installed on it at one point, I'm guessing because of some non-oem holes.

I got the ST rear swaybar used about a month or so ago and just looking at the way it's supposed to be mounted had me worried. So I ordered up an anodized black ASR kit from JHP.

the thickness of JUST the reinforcement plates:


quite abit more surface area than the beaks kit:


so thin....WTF was honda thinking?!?!?!?!?!?!


so on with the writeup

first the tools needed:
12mm socket
14mm socket
good ratchet
good TQ wrench
(I think my endlink bolts/nuts are not the original ones), but for them I needed a
13mm wrench
15mm wrench
(and for 2 holes to be bored out)
11/32 drill bit
drill

1/Remove the LCA bolt from the subframe and shock, use the 14mm socket and ratchet to do this....drop the LCA(No pic of this step...should be self eplanatory)

2/ 2 stock holes will need to be bored out a little TO DO THIS USE THE 11/32" DRILL BIT(note, other holes were from the beaks kit)


3/place asr on the subframe and thread the NEW LCA bolts through just a little bit(to prevent it from falling on you when you're installing the rear part of the brace if you're by yourself) NOTE:The LCA is still dropped on the ground no pic of this step

4/slide the rear section of the brace over the 2 factory nuts that were bored out in step 3
no pic

5/thread in the top bolt in(just thread it in, don't tighten it!)

6/push the bottom bolt through and start spinning the nut on the backside....TQ it down to 20-25lbs(I did mine to 22.5 because I keep hearing between 20-25ft/lbs)

should look like this at this point:



7/remove the LCA bolt and upper swaybar bolt.

8/take shock and spin it 180* so that the nut is facing the rear

9/Bring LCA to shock, place L bracket on the bolt and run the bolt through and start to thread it in

10/bring LCA to subframe and thread supplied LCA bolts in

11/TQ LCA bolts to 40 ft/lbs using the 14mm socket and TQ wrench(be sure L bracket stays paralell with the ground)

12/Install bushing and D brackets onto swaybar

13/get swaybar and D brackets lined up holes and thread both bolts into the ASR kit(DO NOT tighten or TQ!!!!!)

14/Install endlinks should go like so:
(bolt, cupped washer, (flat sides against washers)bushing, L bracket, bushing, cupped washer, bushing, swaybar bushing, cupped washer, bolt)

15/ lower the car onto something to compress the rear suspension to ride height (I used a couple of 4x6s from an old renovation project)

16/ Get all the play/binding out of the swaybar, tighten the endlinks using the 13 & 15mm wrenches till they are snug like so(no distortion/misalignment is when it's correct):


17/ TQ the D brackets to 20-25ft/lbs(again I did these to 22.5) using the 12mm socket and TQ wrench

all TQd down ready to roll:



product review:

HOLY ****!!!!!!!!!!! going from nothing to the ASR and ST 19mm rear bar made a HUGE improvement car seems to have very little body roll where as before it was pretty noticeable without them. The rear end seems much more solid and overall much better. I'll be the first to admit it does take a little going used to, if you go do a canyon run that you're used to.... after installing this TAKE IT SLOW to get used to it the first couple of times, not that I would know ....in conclusion best 250 (200 shipped for the ASR kit and 50 for the used ST rear bar) and 2-3hours of time I've spent on the car so far.

for those wondering, here's my current suspension setup:
KYB AGXs
Omni sleeveovers
GSR front strut bar
NRG H brace
ASR kit
ST 19mm rear swaybar

hope you guys like it/find it useful....

if not, here's something I found for the haters:





Modified by broketuner-Sol_Si at 9:46 PM 6/11/2007

 

Glad you got that installed man. Did my write-up help?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Glad you got that installed man. Did my write-up help? </TD></TR></TABLE>


quite abit...yours was by far the best one out for EKs, but since the EGs are slightly different I decided to make my own

 

<FONT SIZE="+2">d<FONT COLOR="red">S</FONT>oc</FONT> Bump!

Well done, Sean

 

thanks jake....just remebered, I need to get my dsoc sticker on my car still LOL

 

I started a fad with the anodized bars....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCal EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I started a fad with the anodized bars.... </TD></TR></TABLE>


well whoever started it, it looks hott IMO...especially for those trying to maintain a fairly "sleeper" look

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks jake....just remebered, I need to get my dsoc sticker on my car still LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get that on, doo!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


well whoever started it, it looks hott IMO...especially for those trying to maintain a fairly "sleeper" look</TD></TR></TABLE>
JHPs had them for a week or so.
I had mine done about 5 months ago.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1870731

 

Wow the anodized ASR brace is a dollar cheaper than the regular brace. Good deals.

Wonder how they make money if THEY have to anozide the braces.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccerwuedo5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Get that on, doo!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah I know, I want to get a few made up in a different color though, I also still need to give kahn his

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I know, I want to get a few made up in a different color though, I also still need to give kahn his</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure you do it through Aaron @ attackofthesigns.com...dude's a pimp and he took care of us on the dSoc order...any more business you could give him would be very appreciated im sure [as well as bein a good jesture ]

 

for sure....I'll go look him up now

 

so what made you go with the 19mm instead of the itr 22 mm?

i am super torn on what i want. MFactory makes a subframe brace w/ 19mm sway for 190 shipped.

ASR w/ ITR 22 mm is 330 shipped.

i am wondering if the 3 mm is going to make that big of a difference.

 

For those who've PMd me, as far as I know JHP is the only place you can get these, or like the guy on here did, get the anodizing done yourself

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Lobster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what made you go with the 19mm instead of the itr 22 mm?

i am super torn on what i want. MFactory makes a subframe brace w/ 19mm sway for 190 shipped.

ASR w/ ITR 22 mm is 330 shipped.

i am wondering if the 3 mm is going to make that big of a difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got the swaybar a month or so ago for really cheap(50 for everything), when I went to mount it I realized it probaly wasn't that great of an idea to use on a subframe that already had some extra holes, so I ordered the ASR kit, this way, when I go to abigger bar(which will deff. hapen eventually) it's one less thing to buy down the road.


as for Mfactory, I have heard of fitment isses with their kit, much like the megan 4 pt. braces where some holes need to be made slightly bigger/oblong to fit correctly.


to figure out the difference go here:

http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/tantiswa.htm

this is of course assuming that the materials to make the bar are the same

if that formula is correct, it should be about 80% stiffer

 

The company I work for does a lot of business with a plating house that does hard anodizing, If someone wants to take dimensions and give them to me I could ask my buddy how much he would charge to plate em.

 

It's good to see another soler upgrading their suspension. I got mine on and love it. I have the ITR 22mm bar though. I saw that you had the NRG H brace, I wanted to know what your thoughts on that were. I planned on picking it up as soon as I get some stiffer springs for my car.

 

I bet it only costs like $30 max to produce the ASR brace, i showed a picture to a friend at a machine shop. He said I was about right.

If only I had the dimensions a chunk of 6061...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bet it only costs like $30 max to produce the ASR brace, i showed a picture to a friend at a machine shop. He said I was about right.

If only I had the dimensions a chunk of 6061...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah for sure, If only someone could take the dimensions and create an autocad layout. I have a bunch of machinist here that run our mori seki's who have machines at home that could easily make it. ****, I could probably just buy one and have one of the engineers here make a drawing. The more you make the less it costs, and of course anodizing would probably be almost close to free 99

 

x2. And anodizing is cheap, I get helmets anodized for about $16.

 

So now the questions is, who has one that wants to take measurements lol ? I could easily price out material costs and based on dimensions see how many could be cut from a slab. Its cheap to deburr, just need a wheel set up and you could throw your own design on the front. I was just talking to the machinist here and he has a Mill and a Lathe at his home... thinking about shift *****

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I got the swaybar a month or so ago for really cheap(50 for everything), when I went to mount it I realized it probaly wasn't that great of an idea to use on a subframe that already had some extra holes, so I ordered the ASR kit, this way, when I go to abigger bar(which will deff. hapen eventually) it's one less thing to buy down the road.


as for Mfactory, I have heard of fitment isses with their kit, much like the megan 4 pt. braces where some holes need to be made slightly bigger/oblong to fit correctly.


to figure out the difference go here:

http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/tantiswa.htm

this is of course assuming that the materials to make the bar are the same

if that formula is correct, it should be about 80% stiffer</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy ****!

i didnt realize it was that big of a difference.

so you have a 19mm right now...car handles great right?

hypothetically if you had 22mm would help you be even more flat aroudn turns?

im just trying to justify spending 140 extra for 22mm for a street and once a month autox car.

thx

 

22mm will be fine for the street, i had one on my old car.

Just be sure to mate it up with something decent on the front.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">22mm will be fine for the street, i had one on my old car.

Just be sure to mate it up with something decent on the front.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have nothing in the front

trying to get an EK front sway/lca

i guess what i meant was 80% seems like a huge increase just still trying to debate on 19 or 22 with 140 dollar difference.