i've searched, but can't come up with the right word combo. now i've heard that when turbo'ing a b16 (or any engine for that matter) you can't boost all they way to 8200 rpms (redline). For reasons of valvetrain problems? to much psi in the combustion chamber? could have a chance of a floating valve? can the crank, rods, pistons which are all stock take the abuse of boosting @ high rpm.
the reason i ask this for i am going to boost my stock b16 and hopefully make close to 300 whp @ high boost. low would be 250 max. can i just get stronger valve springs, retainers and keepers?

 

Good luck!

 

i would like to know this

 

there was a guy who made 600+ on a stock si and i have seen 300+ on stock motors around here

 

ive talked to some people on here who have cracked retainers at stock redline making 400ish hp on 15+ psi.

ive also seen retainers have the keepers pull through them causing failure.

now personally im running oem itr springs and retainers/keepers with gsr cams currently at about 320-340whp and 12 psi low boost setting. my rev limit is 8400 i think right now.
id imagine that ramp rate and cam profile have something to do with it as well, if u run aftermarket cams

 

it depends on the condition of the original valvetrain. if the engine is old and was beat on by previous owners, it would be a good idea to at least get new springs and retainers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it depends on the condition of the original valvetrain. if the engine is old and was beat on by previous owners, it would be a good idea to at least get new springs and retainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

All B, D, H, and F is old and beat on at this point.

Brand new K-series retainers can not be trusted and must be replaced. My friend has a couple K20 and K24 from the local Honda/Acura Service Center (dealer alternative) that retainers split on and dropped valves. 40-60K stock engines, two attached to automatic transmissions so no over rev was possible, all owned by performance-disinterested middle aged adults.

 

i have stock valvetrain, when i pulled the valve cover to do my timing belt (when i first got it), it was very clean and didn't have any wear marks on the cams, so i'm pretty sure this is a very low mile engine. i will have to pull the pan to install my oil drain fitting so i'll check out the bottom end as well. keep em coming guys
by the way this is a b16 engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95DxSi-R2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have stock valvetrain, when i pulled the valve cover to do my timing belt (when i first got it), it was very clean and didn't have any wear marks on the cams, so i'm pretty sure this is a very low mile engine. i will have to pull the pan to install my oil drain fitting so i'll check out the bottom end as well. keep em coming guys
by the way this is a b16 engine</TD></TR></TABLE>


a little low end maintence goes a long way... because your engine isnt "dirty looking" ,doesnt mean some little kid didnt ring the **** out of it, at any given chance. (bouce off limiter for no reason, missed shift,over reved... i can go on and on.........)

in other words, you have no idea what the particular engine has been through.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

All B, D, H, and F is old and beat on at this point.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly

 

 

I am putting a 95mm knife edged eagle crank in my boosted b20/vtec. I am running a block guard and main griddle. What should my redline be? 8000rpm?

 

my friend is running 10lbs on a b16(stock block) and made 300whp. He shifts at 7600 or 7800 i believe, whatever it is when the red comes onto the tach. No need to rev it out and take your chances

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0o_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am putting a 95mm knife edged eagle crank in my boosted b20/vtec. I am running a block guard and main griddle. What should my redline be? 8000rpm? </TD></TR></TABLE>

wherever power drops off

that seems to be a very solid build, why are you using a blockguard?

 

Im using a block guard because sleeving is way out of my price range.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0o_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im using a block guard because sleeving is way out of my price range.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but the cost of dropping in a 95mm crank and girdle arent?

 

95mm B20A cranks are free, and Jeep thrust bearings are cheap, hahahaa.


FYI, go without a blockguard if you can't afford $900 for sleeves. The tops of the bores aren't the problem with stock sleeves. All a blockguard does is destroy your block if you ever overheat it.

 

Am i going to have a problem with my cylinder walls when i install my turbo kit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0o_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Am i going to have a problem with my cylinder walls when i install my turbo kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

probably not. but the crank is another issue.

 

Why is my crank an issue?

 

how will this car be driven? daily? track only?

with that big a stroke you have more sideload on the cylinders and the bearings take more of a beating the higher you rev. for a track only car this isnt a problem if you plan for rebuilds often. for a street car, well you get the picture.

 

Evereyone in this thread should do them selfs a favor and spend the 300 or so dollars on some aftermarket valvesprings and reatainers. IE rev supertec ..... Oh and if you cant afford sleeves try block posting, way cheaper and still affective.
(http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_pr...ing/index.html)

 

This car will be driven on the street, its not a track car. I another vehicle i drive for work so ill only be driving my car on nights and weekends(not very often)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlakeJ53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and if you cant afford sleeves try block posting, way cheaper and still affective.
(http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_pr...ing/index.html) </TD></TR></TABLE>

No way in hell I'd ever post a block, that's about the shittiest idea to ever make it to a lower rung of the bandwagon.

You're never going to see a posted block make any more power reliably than a stock block, but you are going to see a lot of sleeve failures at intermediate power levels due to posting. Stock sleeves swell when you're making good power, period, end of story. The post acts more like a pin against the sleeve's swelling and the sleeve cracks at a right angle around the pin- er, post - in 95% of the failures I have seen.

The heirarchy of budget block modifications is as follows, ranked according to which is the better idea, and is carved in stone:

1) stock block
2) filling block with devcon aluminum epoxy
3) walking into a gay bar wearing a pink shirt and buying free rounds of drinks for the whole bar
4) posted block


You can ask Dan Benson how the old school pre-sleeving blocks he dropped pins into a decade ago fared. The old pinned blocks at least had sleeve support all the way up and down the bore, instead of just at one pinpoint where sleeve swelling and piston sideload are at their maximum, and were still prone to failures.

 

I agree with BlakeJ53. I got my b16 head worked at TURBOTRIX RACING and had Supertec Valves, Springs, and Retainers and it wasnt much at all. Plus good luck buddy, cracking 300HP on a stock b16. I'll give it a day and you'll have to replace the rings.

 

Can someone fill me in on what block posting even is? I was told my 95mm crank is going to be an issue in my turbo b20 vtec. Why?