My setup:

B16A2
Edelbrock TB
BLOX Manifold
Supertech valvesprings and retainers
ITR CAMS I just bought

B16 BLOCK
Wiesco Pistons 10:1
Eagle Rods
ARP HEAD studs
Spoolin Quick 4 Manifold /w AC
Spoolin FMIC and piping
Spoolin 3" Exhaust kit
Spoolin Downpipe
Vibrant Exhuast 3"
GT3076R with .48 A/R exhaust side
38 mm Tial Wastegate
Greddy BOV
Turbo XS Manual Pro boost controller
1000cc Precision injectors
GM 3 BAR

My tuner said VTEC points were acting weird. We set it at 5500 and it had a huge dip at switch off. We incrementally brought it up until it smoothed out but it was all the way to 6500 to make it look the way it did.

This was final run at 11 lbs. on pump gas. I was hoping for more but he thinks that I didn't have ITR cams. I am going to double check it again. Torque is also a bit low for this setup. Could have cleaned it up a bit more but it was getting late and my pockets were getting even more empty. I called it a night and we were good. Some of the picture was cut off but it was rev'd to 8500 RPM.

Then the whole white smoke and car turned off ordeal...anyways... let me know what you guys think.







Thanks for looking.


Modified by Urugly at 9:06 PM 6/6/2007

 

setup looks nice. power isnt that bad. cams are guna make it sick. did it break?

 

Those seem like pretty nice numbers for 11psi. Did RedZone tune it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My setup:

Then the whole white smoke and car turned off ordeal...anyways... let me know what you guys think.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

those where kinda good numbers for a b16 on 11 psi, don't expect mad tq from it either ... what happened with THAT after all?

 

That .48 a/r exhaust side is what's killing your power. Upgrade that to a .82 and you'll see a significant difference in power.

 

.82 the .48 is just way to small for that compressor

 

I made 349whp on a .7bar (10.5ish psi) wastegate spring with a similar setup but .82 a/r and a 83mm gsr.

 

I am guessing that is what is hurting me so much. As for the motor, they are doing a leak down either today or tomorrow at a Motorsports Tech. in Hayward. We will see then. It can range from a blown head gasket to cracked walls (I pray not).

As for setup, I was thinking a bit more torque than that with a small A/R. I know my peak HP would be cut.

Ryan tuned it from Tech III.

 

what kinda #'s were you hoping for? For 11 psi there good numbers.

I am caught in the same dilemma with the a/r of the hot side. I didnt think the smaller hot side made as much of a difference in peak power, but just spool time. I was under the impression that the compressor side had alot more of a difference in power.

 

Exhaust side makes as much difference, if not more, in power.

 

oh, Is there really any way to tell when its gonna spool and hit full boots with different size a/r turbine sides?

Only reason I ask is because Im caught between the gt35r with the .63 hot side and the .82 hot side. I dont want a turbo that is only gonna make full boost at 5 grand. And I also have an h23 not a b16.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrockNB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, Is there really any way to tell when its gonna spool and hit full boots with different size a/r turbine sides?

Only reason I ask is because Im caught between the gt35r with the .63 hot side and the .82 hot side. I dont want a turbo that is only gonna make full boost at 5 grand. And I also have an h23 not a b16.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very minimal.

 

I was hoping for 350 and break 200 TQ at least. @ 12 lbs. I might be close once I increase boost another lb.

As for your choice in exhaust, I am assuming they will say that it will depend on what you want. .82 will support a higher HP range, but the .63 will still be good from 350-550 with that kind of turbo, but will spool a bit faster.

But then again your motor is a lot bigger than mine.

Tough choice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrockNB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, Is there really any way to tell when its gonna spool and hit full boots with different size a/r turbine sides?

Only reason I ask is because Im caught between the gt35r with the .63 hot side and the .82 hot side. I dont want a turbo that is only gonna make full boost at 5 grand. And I also have an h23 not a b16.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can get away with a huge turbo on an H23. I wouldn't think twice about doing a .82 35r on an H23. There is no way to calculate when it will make boost, but from my experience with that motor, it'll make full boost by 4500ish if not better, assuming the exhaust system is up to par.

 

Wow, Urugly, that's a sick set up! I do agree that those numbers seem a little low considering how much work you have. I've seen plenty of 300 whp numbers with stock internals @ 10psi, so I would expect more from your set up.

The white smoke may indicate a blown head gasket, which would definitely affect your numbers. I would get a leak down test to make sure your motor is in fit shape. Good luck with your build!

 

Nice setup...BTW

Did you take your condensor fan off? I see the AC lines, but no condensor fan.

 

i see you're running a filter on the turbo? take it off and get a metal screen. i gar ante you'll put down higher numbers

 

Thanks guys. I really hope it is just a head gasket blown.

We did run it once with no filter just for kicks and just seen an increase of 4 HP. It wasn't much. Maybe if we ran it open DP, but I didn't want to do that since this is my daily driver.

 

Damn I hope its the gasket too. Those are great numbers, Did you get to drive it at all after the tune?

 

I drove it down the street then home. I even babied it home because car was overheating.

NEWS IN!!!!

Cracked cylinder #1. This sucks big time. Now I am down a lot more. What to do? Buy a new block sleeved or pay to get this block sleeved and use old stuff. Pistons and rods I think are salvagable.

Who sleeves for pretty decent? Anyone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who sleeves for pretty decent? Anyone.</TD></TR></TABLE>

camp1320.com?

 

You can get a GE sleeved B18A/B block for around 900-950 shipped. Why not up your displacement while you're rebuilding it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drove it down the street then home. I even babied it home because car was overheating.

NEWS IN!!!!

Cracked cylinder #1. This sucks big time. Now I am down a lot more. What to do? Buy a new block sleeved or pay to get this block sleeved and use old stuff. Pistons and rods I think are salvagable.

Who sleeves for pretty decent? Anyone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say if your internals are not scarred and nothing that jeopordizes the integrity of the parts, then get your block sleeved. That way it will be good for more boost just in case you have the desire to boost more down the road. You'll also have guite a few rebuilds because it is resleeved.
If your parts need to be replaced just get a used long block and use it and you're good to go. Good luck.

 

I was gonna say cracked cylinder...seen it many times but you beat me to it.

I had that happen after a dyno session also...sucks.

I just bought a block from a buddy for $100 and swapped everything over. Luckily pistons were ok in my block.

 

Call Mike at Laskey Racing. He can get benson to sleeve it for ya.