Overheating still?
I recently replaced my water pump thinking that was the problem for loss of coolant then overheating. Car ran fine for about a week on short trips to work/school but then i decided to go some where else. That thing overheated so bad I had to stop.
Then the other day I was on my way to work and the gauge creeped up to H I was like CRAP! so I turned the heat on immediately, the temp went down temporarily but it woul just creep up again. A little further and the gauge started to mess with me it started going up and down like a joke. It would heat up a lights and cool down a little at lights.
So today I said maybe I have some AIR POCKETS. So started the car with the cap off ran it for a while until operating temp and stopped bubbling.put the cap back on and started to drive for about 45minutes and sure enough Overheating again. This SUCKS.
one of my friends suggested pulling the T-stat out, and I think Iam gonna do that right now. Any suggestions HT?
Then the other day I was on my way to work and the gauge creeped up to H I was like CRAP! so I turned the heat on immediately, the temp went down temporarily but it woul just creep up again. A little further and the gauge started to mess with me it started going up and down like a joke. It would heat up a lights and cool down a little at lights.
So today I said maybe I have some AIR POCKETS. So started the car with the cap off ran it for a while until operating temp and stopped bubbling.put the cap back on and started to drive for about 45minutes and sure enough Overheating again. This SUCKS.
one of my friends suggested pulling the T-stat out, and I think Iam gonna do that right now. Any suggestions HT?
No smoke from the exhaust, the fan IS working, when it was overheating I popped the hood and yes they were on.
and the Rad cap is two weeks old.
and the Rad cap is two weeks old.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmd15bciviconrice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe it might be your heater core</TD></TR></TABLE>
what could be wrong with it?
what could be wrong with it?
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Did you bleed the cooling system using the little nipple on the head? Did you have the climate control panel set to hot when you filled the cooling system? Both of these things can cause your car to overheat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by low91rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So today I said maybe I have some AIR POCKETS. So started the car with the cap off ran it for a while until operating temp and stopped bubbling.put the cap back on and started to drive for about 45minutes and sure enough Overheating again. This SUCKS
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Did you jack the front end up? If not, then you aren't getting all of the air out, which is more than likely your problem.
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Did you jack the front end up? If not, then you aren't getting all of the air out, which is more than likely your problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you jack the front end up? If not, then you aren't getting all of the air out, which is more than likely your problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^X2
Jack up or park on steep hill with rad cap off and just top off. I'd recommend you replace the thermostat first though.
Did you jack the front end up? If not, then you aren't getting all of the air out, which is more than likely your problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^X2
Jack up or park on steep hill with rad cap off and just top off. I'd recommend you replace the thermostat first though.
Thanks for all the responses guys. but you think I still Have air pockets? I just bought a new thermostat Im gonna put that in instead of just pulling it out.
Then I should bleed in on a flat surface, and again jacked up? Ill Bump this when I get started.
Oh yeah the bleed nipple is It the one towards the front? cause I removed that and nothing came out?
thanks again guys
Then I should bleed in on a flat surface, and again jacked up? Ill Bump this when I get started.
Oh yeah the bleed nipple is It the one towards the front? cause I removed that and nothing came out?
thanks again guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by low91rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the responses guys. but you think I still Have air pockets? I just bought a new thermostat Im gonna put that in instead of just pulling it out.
Then I should bleed in on a flat surface, and again jacked up? Ill Bump this when I get started.
Oh yeah the bleed nipple is It the one towards the front? cause I removed that and nothing came out?
thanks again guys
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Replace the thermostat. Then jack up the front of the car and bleed with rad cap off. Top off coolant...get all bubbles out.
Then I should bleed in on a flat surface, and again jacked up? Ill Bump this when I get started.
Oh yeah the bleed nipple is It the one towards the front? cause I removed that and nothing came out?
thanks again guys
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Replace the thermostat. Then jack up the front of the car and bleed with rad cap off. Top off coolant...get all bubbles out.
Ok Today I finally had time to take the t-stat out and It turns out there was never a t-stat In there! So I put the new one in and now Im ready to bleed the coolant. Im not sure If I did it right the other time but now that there is a t-stat in there what is the proper way to bleed it?
I was told to put it on jack stands start the car up with the rad cap off for like 20 mins or untill the fans turn on. Does That mean the t-stat is opening? then they said the coolant level should drop and then just add more coolant. Is that right?
Oh this is what the T-stat looked like BTW:
I was told to put it on jack stands start the car up with the rad cap off for like 20 mins or untill the fans turn on. Does That mean the t-stat is opening? then they said the coolant level should drop and then just add more coolant. Is that right?
Oh this is what the T-stat looked like BTW:
BUMP Its been running now and the fans just turned on after about 20 minutes. The top hose Is BURNING HOT and the bottom one is really cold. Its blowing so much steam out of the rad opening. and a few bubbles. The car is up on jacks
Ok the car has been running for like an hour now and It seems like the thermostat is still not opening up because the bottom hose is still cold. The temp gauge is reading normal so it hasnt overheated yet.
Am I doing this right? I jacked the car back to level surface too.
The fans are not turning off and the t-stat is not opening because the bottom hose is still cold. If I just close the cap, when the t-stat does open I will have a huge air pocket correct?
Am I doing this right? I jacked the car back to level surface too.
The fans are not turning off and the t-stat is not opening because the bottom hose is still cold. If I just close the cap, when the t-stat does open I will have a huge air pocket correct?
C'mon guys no one wants to help?
well After letting it idle for about an hour and 30 mins The t-stat just wouldnt open cause the bottom hose was STILL cold fans still running too. Then this happens
for the longest time the temp was like this:
then a few more minutes and this:
Then this is the point were I just turned it off:
The bottom hose was still friggin cold.
So what I did was let the engine cool off then I took It out for a few WOT runs around the neighborhood came back in the driveway and the temp was still normal I touched the bottom hose and wow, It was hot. So what now do I have an air pocket in the system? This problem is annoying
well After letting it idle for about an hour and 30 mins The t-stat just wouldnt open cause the bottom hose was STILL cold fans still running too. Then this happens
for the longest time the temp was like this:
then a few more minutes and this:
Then this is the point were I just turned it off:
The bottom hose was still friggin cold.
So what I did was let the engine cool off then I took It out for a few WOT runs around the neighborhood came back in the driveway and the temp was still normal I touched the bottom hose and wow, It was hot. So what now do I have an air pocket in the system? This problem is annoying
have you bled your system properly since you did all this work?
Pop the cap off your radiator and start the car and watch for bubbles coming to the surface. You'll also want to undo the screw on the top where the upper hose connects to the block and let it drip out.
Pop the cap off your radiator and start the car and watch for bubbles coming to the surface. You'll also want to undo the screw on the top where the upper hose connects to the block and let it drip out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by firebane »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you bled your system properly since you did all this work?
Pop the cap off your radiator and start the car and watch for bubbles coming to the surface. You'll also want to undo the screw on the top where the upper hose connects to the block and let it drip out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I let it bleed for about an hour and 30 mins. And I tried to unscrew the bleeder nut but nothing would come out.
Pop the cap off your radiator and start the car and watch for bubbles coming to the surface. You'll also want to undo the screw on the top where the upper hose connects to the block and let it drip out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I let it bleed for about an hour and 30 mins. And I tried to unscrew the bleeder nut but nothing would come out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lamchop0000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the thermostat installed the right way?
with the springs and that plunger thing pointing towards the rear?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I installed it with the long part towards the drivers side. Witch should be the correct way
with the springs and that plunger thing pointing towards the rear?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I installed it with the long part towards the drivers side. Witch should be the correct way
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by low91rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah I let it bleed for about an hour and 30 mins. And I tried to unscrew the bleeder nut but nothing would come out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If nothing comes out then that is a bad sign, liquid should always come out this bleeder screw. Honestly I'd start from scratch and even look at removing the upper hose piece on the block to check to make sure its functioning properly.
Also as stated before did you make sure to open up the heater controls to full heat before you did all this?
What I do when I put new fluid in is top it off on the radiator then open the rad cap and start the car and let the fluids settle because what happens is it'll have to go through the heater core and lower your fluid and if you don't top it off after you'll end up with big air bubbles in the system which causes a system to overheat.
Once the rad is topped off and doesn't go down anymore then open the bleed screw and run the car again and let it come out the bleed screw and if still nothing it maybe clogged
Yeah I let it bleed for about an hour and 30 mins. And I tried to unscrew the bleeder nut but nothing would come out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If nothing comes out then that is a bad sign, liquid should always come out this bleeder screw. Honestly I'd start from scratch and even look at removing the upper hose piece on the block to check to make sure its functioning properly.
Also as stated before did you make sure to open up the heater controls to full heat before you did all this?
What I do when I put new fluid in is top it off on the radiator then open the rad cap and start the car and let the fluids settle because what happens is it'll have to go through the heater core and lower your fluid and if you don't top it off after you'll end up with big air bubbles in the system which causes a system to overheat.
Once the rad is topped off and doesn't go down anymore then open the bleed screw and run the car again and let it come out the bleed screw and if still nothing it maybe clogged
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by firebane »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If nothing comes out then that is a bad sign, liquid should always come out this bleeder screw. Honestly I'd start from scratch and even look at removing the upper hose piece on the block to check to make sure its functioning properly.
Also as stated before did you make sure to open up the heater controls to full heat before you did all this?
What I do when I put new fluid in is top it off on the radiator then open the rad cap and start the car and let the fluids settle because what happens is it'll have to go through the heater core and lower your fluid and if you don't top it off after you'll end up with big air bubbles in the system which causes a system to overheat.
Once the rad is topped off and doesn't go down anymore then open the bleed screw and run the car again and let it come out the bleed screw and if still nothing it maybe clogged </TD></TR></TABLE>
Im pretty sure it is clogged, But ill try to do that right now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by viciousef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the head is warped. you need to get a new motor. stop throwin money into a lost cause. just pick up a new motor for like 250 to 400 dollars and be done with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure? I was kind of thinking that too but there Is NO water in the oil, I pulled the valve cover and Oil was not milky, and theres absolutely no white smoke from the exhaust. Exhaust does smell a little funny at times but no smoke.
Only reason why I think the head is warped is because my mom drove it home on H. she said It was not more than 6-10 minutes. Ive heard just even getting to H Is enough to warp the head. who knows, I will not give up on this car though. The owners before me ghetto rigged everything on this car and I have to fix everything, meh that what I get for $500
If nothing comes out then that is a bad sign, liquid should always come out this bleeder screw. Honestly I'd start from scratch and even look at removing the upper hose piece on the block to check to make sure its functioning properly.
Also as stated before did you make sure to open up the heater controls to full heat before you did all this?
What I do when I put new fluid in is top it off on the radiator then open the rad cap and start the car and let the fluids settle because what happens is it'll have to go through the heater core and lower your fluid and if you don't top it off after you'll end up with big air bubbles in the system which causes a system to overheat.
Once the rad is topped off and doesn't go down anymore then open the bleed screw and run the car again and let it come out the bleed screw and if still nothing it maybe clogged </TD></TR></TABLE>
Im pretty sure it is clogged, But ill try to do that right now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by viciousef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the head is warped. you need to get a new motor. stop throwin money into a lost cause. just pick up a new motor for like 250 to 400 dollars and be done with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure? I was kind of thinking that too but there Is NO water in the oil, I pulled the valve cover and Oil was not milky, and theres absolutely no white smoke from the exhaust. Exhaust does smell a little funny at times but no smoke.
Only reason why I think the head is warped is because my mom drove it home on H. she said It was not more than 6-10 minutes. Ive heard just even getting to H Is enough to warp the head. who knows, I will not give up on this car though. The owners before me ghetto rigged everything on this car and I have to fix everything, meh that what I get for $500


