I have a 95lx 4dr 4cyl. and im gonna replace my rack and pinion. I ordered it already from the dealer. i decided to go with a dealer part because of the bad experiences i have had at the shop, they buy autozone and kragen stuff. We have had numerous comebacks. Well anyway how hard is it to change it? estimated time? also any advice ? thanks btw i paid $430 for the rack

 

bump

 

not sure on teh install...but just a question...

why are you changing this part? and how do you know when it needs to be changed?

 

first of all, don't be so quick to bump the thread. Give people time to read and respond. There is no need to bump a thread thats still on the first page IMO.

I don't think it's a real hard thing to do. Some things are in hard to reach places at times but not bad. As for how long it will take, I'm not sure, I took mine out when I was replacing my subframe and doing other things.

Quick run down of things that need to be done...
-lift and support front of car
-take front wheels off
-drain PS fluid
-inside the car, remove the rubber boot at base of steering column, then unbolt the steering column from the PS rack (be sure to mark the shafts for alignment on install)
-remove the castle nut and pop the tie rod ends free from the knuckle
-remove, I believe, the driver side tie rod end (to make room to remove rack from subframe)
-I believe you'll also want to make sure the rack is pushed at the way to one side to make it easier on removing and installing
-remove the center beam of the subframe
-remove the 3 nuts holding the downpipe to the exhaust manifold
-remove the 2 bolts holding the downpipe to the block
-remove the exhaust hangers enough to let the exhaust drop and give you access to remove the PS rack
-unbolt the steering rack and remove from the car

Install is reverse.

Make sure to bleed the PS system after adding new fluid.

If I've left something out, sorry, it's been a while and I don't have my manual in front of me to double check the steps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devilpuppy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why are you changing this part? and how do you know when it needs to be changed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's probably leaking

 

YEA BOTH BOOTS ARE TORN. I DIDNT THINK I WAS GONNA NEED TO MESS WITH THE STEERING COLUMN. WE HAVE DONE OTHER RACKS ON CARS AND HAVNT MESSED WITH THAT BUT IT MIGHT BE DIFF WITH HONDAS I DUNNO. SORRY FOR THE CAPS REALIZED I HAD IT ON HALFWAY THROUGH

 

damn, $430 for a steering rack. how steep

 

dealer does this in about 4-5 hours. i think you need an alignment afterward.

dealer tried to tell me mine was leaking, but yet here 5 months later, no loss of PS and no change in fluid level. a$$holes tried to get $1000 from me for no reason.

 

yea pretty pricy. today i was thinking it was too much and i might just cancel the order but at the shop i work at we put a remanufactured axle on a civic and 20min later we got a call saying that they couldnt drive the ca. The axle somehow snaped. So i guess 430 bucks buys me peace of mind. oh and aligning the car will be no problem i can align it here at the shop

 

lock the steering wheel at center and center the rack before you hook up to the steering wheel shaft.
If it isn't lined up correctly it can damage the SRS "clockspring" reel.

 

center the rack? how exactly do i do that?