Ok I now have an ls/vtec turbo set up and before that I had a fully built ls turbo with a type r oil pump but then my water pump pully feel off "never heard before" but it did, and it bent all my valves so now its ls/vtec. My problem is before when it was an ls, oil pressure sat at 25psi at idle 50psi driving and 75psi getting on it in higher revs, But with ls/vetc it seems like the oil pressure has been slowly droping it was 25psi at idle but now its 10-15psi and its like 15-22psi when im driveing and 50psi really getting on it and it still hits vtec. The motor only has 600 miles on it, and I'm use the golden eagle kit. Does anyone know what oil pressure usally sits at with ls/vtec and why mine could be so low? I would be VERY GREATFUL

 

Give it an oil change and see if it comes back up.

 

Ill try that, I just started it when its cold it works great but after it warms up is when it starts to drop I think im going to try a heavyer oil and see what that does.

 

you should definately change your oil .if i remember correctly you should have changed it at 500 miles if you are following the recommended breakin schedule
you didnt say if you were useing conventional oil or synthetic
a lot of manufacturers and engine builders recommend not useing sythetic oil when breaking a motor in because they say that it doesnt allow the parts to wear in correctly.
some oil pressure reduction after warm up is normal.oil thins out and flows faster after it is warm

 

The car has about 600- 700 miles on it and it has had 4 oil changes all for different reasons, I run a 10w-30

 

hmm, sounds logical, that oil is k8inda old, isnt it ? The motor should be well broken in,
Here is a question, now that the mtoro is broken in, with LS VTEC, and Turbo, what weight oil should he be using? And should he be running Synthetic?

Me personally with my FORD fully built, was reccomended to run a 5w-30 Synthetic, ANYONE with turbo should run synthetic.

Also what he was asking, could the low oil pressure mean, his oil pump is going out, or mabey the oil pickup claugged? He stated that it is an TYPE-R oil pump.

Now another thing, he tryed to say, He did the LS vtec conversion with the Golden eagle kit, for those who dont know what that is, is uses a "sandwhich" adaptor on the oil filter, has to ports on it, the first port we use for the stock oil switch AND oil pressure sending unit for the gauge the other port we use for the TURBo feed, and VTEC feed with a T......

Mabey were sucking too mutch oil out of the block? and need to relocat the oil feed for turbo to the head???

 

yes full synthetic is great for any application particularly turbo apps because it provides excellent lubrication and hightened protection against thermal breakdown
but according to most of the engine builders ive talked to and the haynes manuals synthetic oil is not recommended during break in as it is too "slick" and may not allow the parts to wear in properly however after the break in period you can use either one you choose synthetic is obviously better
most manuals dont consider an engine fully broken in untill 2000 miles
this is generalized info not necisarily application specific
when you bought your oil pump did you get the standard pump or a hi volume i would think you would want the one with the higher volume considering the oil has to travel further and has to flow enough to lubricate and cool the berrings in the turbo
if the oil pick up was cleaned before engine the engine was put together it shouldnt have collected enough junk to clog it up but if every oil passage was not properly cleaned after machining it could be possible that the pick up is clogged but if you had enough shavings to clog it you would deffinately notice them during your previous oil changes . you could also check to be sure that the pick up to pump connection isnt leaking

 

ouch, I think like after 500 miles we BEAT THE **** OUT OF THE CAR with 8K shifts and 18 psi.....

Sounds like we didnt give her a good break in period, Could explain why we still here a slight Piston slap ( Darton sleeves)

 

the oil pump is an oem type r, I did some research and everyone is saying to run the type r pump.

 

alright i did some more research today and found a few things :
some people dont really worry about a specific break in period they just run their car how they want and they have good results so i believe break in is all a matter of what you choose to do so i dont believe that your low oil pressure/ piston slap probs are fron improper break in

bearing clearances play a major part in your oil pressure if you are on the high side of tour recommended bearing clearances you will have lower oil pressure than if you were on the low end of the clearance specs .

different oil pressure sensor locations can give you differences in oil pressure readings.

no matter what your break in preference you should get your engine management tuned asap after initial start up because if you are running lean your pistons can expand and ruin your sleaves and pistons and if you are running too rich your excess fuel will wash the oil down your cylnder walls and cause you to burn up your rings

 

justin, that didnt make sence what u said....

We KNOW ur running the TYPE-R oil pump dumbass......

So, in conclusion, Well, What is the colclusion? Run a Fully synthetic 5w-30 motor oil?

I AGREEEEEEE Totally, he is running stupid RICH, He NEEEEDS Tuned!! Hes running a Baemap from phearable.net

 

ok, So First off, well pull the pan, check the oil pickup to oil pump for leaks, tighten bolts etc...


Secondly, fill up with oil, now I dunno, but I personally thing 50wreight is TOO thick....


Anyone else?

He said, when he first starts the car up, it idle perfectly, with 50 psi of oil, after warmed, goes REALLY LOW.....

 

the weight of the oil you use is dependant on the temperatures that the car is running (meaning what temperature it is outside) but mainly it depends on your preference .me personally i run either 20w-50 or straight 50w in the summertime i searched through some treads and everyone has there own opinion but if you are worried about the oil being slow to get to the top of the motor when the motor is cold .i have never seen anyone have a problem with slow moving or congealed oil in florida in the summertime.

 

well, lets see a little update.. ill try my best to explain what happend, ill let Justin Chime in when hes not being ***** WHOOPED....

Anyway, from what I know, they dropped the old oil out of the car ( the oil was VERY OLD he didnt change it whent he car sats for a few months, PLUS we think brake cleaner got into the motor ( the head was cleaned with brake cleaner)

When he oil was dropped, he said is was SUPER THIN, I mean, like water thin!
SO.... He felt that may be the problem, so he put in a few quarts of super THICK 20-50 and 1 quart of straight 50 weight..........

At the same time, it was told the gauge may be malfuncting, SO, he got a MECHANICAL gauge, cuz we KNOW they dont lie....

The out come, Guess oil prressure was fine, was where it was suppos to be, BUT....

On the drive home, Got into boost hard 2nd to 3rd gear, then let off, and guess what......

Oil pressure DROPPED LOW again..... we talking 20 down to 5psi ouch.....


SO... With that info being said, what do we think now?

Oil pump=TOAST
oil pump bolts= LOOSE?
Oil pickup =Loose and leaking?
OR...

MAIN bearings, toooo loose clearances?

is there ANY way of testing the oil pump? Id rather not have him buy a new pump for no reason..

 

after reading the update i did some searching and found that your oil pressure problem is very common with turbo set ups and there is a plenthora of info on the subject a lot of it has to do with turbo feed line and sensor placement and turbo oil feed line size but i am not going to re type all the information so i will tell you how to access it: use the search button when the search screen comes up put the words "low oil pressure" in the search box and where it gives you the choice of current threads or archived click on archived and it will pull up a whole pile of threads to look through look for the ones that were posted in the forced induction forum. you should find your answer there

im not trying to be a smart ***. i know that if you dont put everything in just right on the search screen it doesnt give you the results you were looking for

hopefully this will give you a solution to your problem .the last update you posted helped clear up the picture quite a bit . prior to it i was under the impression that it was just a problem when the engine got up to operating temperature .but after reading the update it sounds like everything is fine until the turbo starts spinning at a high speed . so check those archived threads and give us another update.

 

one more thing, Did I mention, He didnt LS vtec, Now when we did this conversion, we noticed there is NOWHERE to put the Coolant temp sender thing, the one that the cooling fan operates off of. SO, his fan is on FULL TIME... so it takes a little while to actually reach operating temperature.....


So from what u typed, there may be nothing wrong with his oil pump at all??

 

ok so, did a little reaserch:

a lot of peeps say: if you Tee'd the oil pressure gauge along with the oil feed line, I have found that Tee'ing these two together will give false readings on the oil pressure gauge.
The turbo sucks the oil up too fast causing the gauge to not read the correct pressure.

Seperate them and see if the pressure changes.

BUT, if this was true, why, when he bought the mechanical gauge, and tepped the mechanical gauge into somewhere else in the head beside the sandwhich adaptor did it give and even lower reading? I mean, this is how he has his oil feeds set up:


Where the oil fiter sits, Oil sandwhich adaptor has 2 ports on it, one port is stock oil switch AND oil sending unit for oil gauge, second port is , VTEC oil supply and Turbo oil supply.


Sound like too many oil feeds from the oil filter???

God i hope that is the answer! The type-R pump is brand new, dont wanna replace it!

 

a little more info for you guys,


VTEC engauges properly everytime!!


After a little more reaserch, sounds like we need to replocated the oil pressure gauge to the head, or to its OWN oil supply, since we have oil supplies like this..:

stock oil switch port has a T one for the oil switch AND oil pressure gauge, one side is for OIL FEED to TURBO!
And the sandwhich adaptor only has the VTEC line to it!

So like I said, we need to try and give the oil pressure gauge its OWN oil supply....

BUT, one thing to add, when we hooked the MECHANICAL gauge up temporarly to the HEAD in 2 n different spots, at idle it READ 0-5 PSI LOW!

 

on some of those archived threads it refers to the size of the turbos oil feed line having an effect on oil pressure . meaning that if your oil feed line is too large the turbo will take a lot of your oil volume and oil pressure away from your engine from the threads ive read an an-3 or an-4 line is ideal also if you dont want to buy a new line they sell restictors that only let a certain amount of oil through the line also you may want to check the archives for what size feed line everyone is running for the vtech as well.

 

Well, the oil turbo feed is mabey -3 , small....
Yes, there is a restrictor in there!

ANd the Vtec feed is mabey -6 .. But its the GOLDEN EAGLE KIT, for those who dont know, its the ls vtec conversion kit with head gasket, plug ,tap and die SS line and fittings....

 

when it was ls turbo there were no oil problems everything is in the same spot oil feed for the turbo,stock pressure sensor, and sending unit to gauge. Now that its ls/vtec the only new thing is the oil filter sandwich adapter that feeds vtec that line I think is -6 but when I put the line into the head before I put the head on it was hard to blow through so I know that's helping to keep pressure. I just thought of something I just got vtec hooked up and now that it works oil pressure drops after I hit vtec because I drove the car all day before without vtec and it drove fine even in high rpms. I think im going to look at the vtec solenoid.

 

VERY true!

Didnt even think about that, Yes, when he First put the VTEC head on, VTEC wasnt even chipped in the ECU for it, so he wasnt hitting VTEC, and his oil Pressure was FINE!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here was my issue.
The oil feed for the turbo was tee'd off along with my oil pressure gauge. The turbo sorta sucks oil into it, which caused a false reading to the oil pressure gauge.

Seperate these two and you will most likely see your oil psi go up.</TD></TR></TABLE>


A little update, unbolted the vtec sylonoid, and the screen was FULL of metal shavings, it was def claugged!!
Cleaned it up and oil PSI when up a little but is still LOW!!