So I've used my rear jack points on either side of my 97 civic ex coupe and the jack spots gave out on me.. I've noticed what seems to be a design flaw in how they made the jack points, when compared to the front of the car. The two front jack points are a little thicker and 1/3 as long, thus making it less prone to bending and warping; while the rear ones are a little thinner and are much longer than the front, which I believe is the reason that they just bent inwards and "died".

Has anybody else had this problem? It's kind of a minor inconvenience to have to use the tow-point in the rear of my car because I can't quite jack the car up as high and since I need to get it jacked up to put in my skunk2 shocks and MG lower (front+rear) tie bars, it makes it harder. Just wondering if anybody has ever just cut off the bent in portions and re-welding a thicker and shorter jack-point.

 

jack the rear from the rear tow hook..

 

I jack the rear from the rear tow hook as well, nothing that my 3 ton 21" lift height floor jack can't handle. Then I place jack stands where the side jack points are. If you jack from teh sides, where are you going to put your jack stands?

Now, my 1.5 ton jack can't lift it high enough sometimes.

 

I've never heard of this happening and I doubt Honda engineers would have missed such a design which could affect safety.

I'd be willing to bet someone might have previously jacked your car improperly, causing part of it to weaken.

I've seen cars improperly jacked before... but it usually requires repair (i.e., hammering) of the front floor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never heard of this happening and I doubt Honda engineers would have missed such a design which could affect safety.

I'd be willing to bet someone might have previously jacked your car improperly, causing part of it to weaken.

I've seen cars improperly jacked before... but it usually requires repair (i.e., hammering) of the front floor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahhh...using the floorpans as jacking points, i miss those days
oh and don't use the rear subframe as a jacking point, its rather thin, ask how i know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ahhh...using the floorpans as jacking points, i miss those days
oh and don't use the rear subframe as a jacking point, its rather thin, ask how i know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oooh, oooh. How?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahhh...using the floorpans as jacking points, i miss those days
oh and don't use the rear subframe as a jacking point, its rather thin, ask how i know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wanna know too.

Pics?

 

haha how about the LCA's?

lol just grab a sledge hammer and a body brick and fix it, also if you can tig or mig a few support brackets to it

just wondering how do you guys solve subframe tearout?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team RS2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha how about the LCA's?

lol just grab a sledge hammer and a body brick and fix it, also if you can tig or mig a few support brackets to it

just wondering how do you guys solve subframe tearout? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Replacement of the rear subframe then add a brace. Or better yet get shocks that are true lowering shocks. to help prevent the rear wheels from extending farther then they should on a lowered car

 

hah, it was on my bro's then EK hatch (it got stolen several years ago), I was working on it and was jacking from the rear subframe, and then when I let it off the jack, i saw some slight impressions. I suppose if i used a 2x4 to spread the load it wouldn't have deformed...