Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

01 H22a Accord - Code 9 - Cylinder Position code will not go away

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Old May 24, 2007 | 07:23 PM
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Default 01 H22a Accord - Code 9 - Cylinder Position code will not go away

Set-Up:
Built h22a4
'01 Accord
OBD2-OBD1 Conversion harness
Hondata s300 with jdm p72 ecu
obd2 distributor
Cam timing is dead on - Compression is 200 across the board
During Break In - Stock Ignition - Threw a Code 'assumed' to be code 9 about a month ago or so
Turbo - MSD Ignition - throws Code 9

I have a '01 Accord with a built turbo h22a. It has been driven for about 8000 miles without the turbo kit on and I was told that recently about a month ago a check engine light would come on when the AC was turned on during a hot day. This was about 6000 miles or so after the motor was built and installed. Once you reset the car the cel would go away and stay off. Before installing the turbo kit I test drove it for a few days and the code did not come on. The customer was unable at the time to pull the code unfortunately though. When I had it on the dyno and it was breaking up horribly and then decided to throw a code 9 which is the cylinder position sensor. Bingo... dizzy problems.

I have gone over everything as well as replaced everything just about. I have replaced the distributor with a known working obd2 h22a4 distributor, converted the dizzy to an obd1 set-up and installed a working h22a1 dizzy, ran the CYP wires directly to the ecu side of the harness and regardless it continues to throw code 9. I have even replaced the ecu and still no luck. When the car was 'pre-turbo' and threw the cel it was on a stock ignition system. Right now it has the msd digital 6 as well as hvc coil. I may remove it to just be sure msd isn't the guilty culprit just to be safe. I am also going to run through the helms procedure and trouble shoot everything. The other wierd thing is my obd2 scan tool will not pick the code up but hondata will verify that it is in fact a code 9.

I already read through my helms manual I plan on doing a test for resistance, continuity, and open/short wires. The thing is everything that I replaced pretty much would bypass any of those problems considering I put working components on from other cars as well as bypassed the wire harness by going from the dizzy straight to the ecu.

If you guys have any input feel free to let me know because this is driving me crazy.
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