hey what do you guys think of this harness bar for eks should i make more?
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Three sheer points on something that may be holding you and a passenger doesn't seem that great. Especially knowing how flimsy those seat brackets are. If you ever rolled it, it would tear out. For a quick auto-x....do it. Anything more than that, and I see it as being unsafe.
thanks for all your inputs just to answer a few i did make this inhouse and the welds are tig and pretty perfect unless you mean to sand them smooth....i did the bar going straight back to the seat thing because alot of people pull there seats out and keep the plastics in....pretty much a 3 min bolt in time and super strong if anyone wants one for a diffrent car just let me know because we have about every honda here at the shop to make it on nsx civic integra fit etc...
Don't take this the wrong way, but that's not very safe. In the event of a hard crash, the middle seat support is going to tear off and the cross bar is just going to pivot down on the upper heim joints, leaving you with seat belts connected to a moving bar, and your face in the windshield at best.
that's creative and the fab work looks decent (dispite potential safety problems), but I dont see why you would want heim joints on something that isnt supposed to move at all.
I certainly wouldn't use that as the belts main anchor. Anchor the belts to the floor in an appropriate manner, then just utilize the bar for the belts to go over in order to prevent spinal compression.
I personally don't like the 90's. I understand if you don't have a bender, I just think this has alot left to be desired. Good for your own project, but I wouldn't sell that.
I personally don't like the 90's. I understand if you don't have a bender, I just think this has alot left to be desired. Good for your own project, but I wouldn't sell that.
Its a good effort no doubt, I agree witht he comments about the mounting, the tig welds could use a little more filler, they look a bit undercut, and the slash cuts aren't that appealing either.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's creative and the fab work looks decent (dispite potential safety problems), but I dont see why you would want heim joints on something that isnt supposed to move at all.
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It is for fabrication variation,warping, you name it. Makes it go in easier.
That said, I have to agree with tony1 and RC000E. It should have nice bends, and better design for a crash. This is typical of anything that has to bolt-in, it's a compromise. Always better to weld a stiffener of any kind in.
The welding looks ok, I'm not sure who would buy something like that.
The heim joints and miter cuts will price it out of the cheap range.
It's interesting, but not sure...
Even for yours, I would triangulate the t-bar just inside of the belts.
The top anchors are not meant for that load though. They are meant to be loaded with a pulley, and not at 90 degrees.
Anyways, sorry for the rant, just my suggestions. It's cool, great idea.
Modified by 9bells at 10:14 PM 5/25/2007
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It is for fabrication variation,warping, you name it. Makes it go in easier.
That said, I have to agree with tony1 and RC000E. It should have nice bends, and better design for a crash. This is typical of anything that has to bolt-in, it's a compromise. Always better to weld a stiffener of any kind in.
The welding looks ok, I'm not sure who would buy something like that.
The heim joints and miter cuts will price it out of the cheap range.
It's interesting, but not sure...
Even for yours, I would triangulate the t-bar just inside of the belts.
The top anchors are not meant for that load though. They are meant to be loaded with a pulley, and not at 90 degrees.
Anyways, sorry for the rant, just my suggestions. It's cool, great idea.
Modified by 9bells at 10:14 PM 5/25/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9bells »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It is for fabrication variation,warping, you name it. Makes it go in easier.
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mmm, i'm sure it does install easier but i dont see heim joints as the best way to do this. A good jig and fabricator easily overcome any of these problems you mention.
from a structural standpoint, look at any of the 'good' strut bars. they all mount with flat plates and tabs, because they don't flex and because, rather then moving the force to just the shank of the bolt it is distributed across the flange since its clamped against the body. I know its not hard to make something like this fit right, so if the heims are for that reason only i will call that person a lazy ***
It is for fabrication variation,warping, you name it. Makes it go in easier.
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mmm, i'm sure it does install easier but i dont see heim joints as the best way to do this. A good jig and fabricator easily overcome any of these problems you mention.
from a structural standpoint, look at any of the 'good' strut bars. they all mount with flat plates and tabs, because they don't flex and because, rather then moving the force to just the shank of the bolt it is distributed across the flange since its clamped against the body. I know its not hard to make something like this fit right, so if the heims are for that reason only i will call that person a lazy ***
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9bells »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You could argue that the seat belt anchor was designed for a crash, and it will be stronger in a straight pull like that.
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You could argue that, except the lower "anchor" is where the rear seats pivot, it's hardly structural and definitely isn't a safety belt mounting location.
You could argue that the seat belt anchor was designed for a crash, and it will be stronger in a straight pull like that.
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You could argue that, except the lower "anchor" is where the rear seats pivot, it's hardly structural and definitely isn't a safety belt mounting location.
Tony1 hit on the head...as he normally does. The rear support is next to worthless. If you want to eliminate that, and maybe somehow tie it into the actual threaded seat belt holes under the rear seat, then it would probably be a damn nice piece. DEFENITELY get away from the cut/welded tubing. I personally dont think anyone would buy something like that, I defenitely wouldnt. If you dont have a bender, figure out the dimensions, and pay a local guy $10 to bend one up...its not expensive. Maybe even find someone local who does it as a hobby, and has a bender you could borrow.
Kyle
Kyle
great idea, but i think it would be a major improvement in safety-wise, is instead of a single rear bolt down point, make it two bolt down point; have two bars going from the horizontal bar straight down to the front threaded holes of the rear seat. and a bent horizontal bar would be great and more marketable.

Modified by @irborne at 11:06 AM 5/25/2007

Modified by @irborne at 11:06 AM 5/25/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You could argue that, except the lower "anchor" is where the rear seats pivot, it's hardly structural and definitely isn't a safety belt mounting location.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, edited my brilliant post. Totally right, my rsx has the same set-up.
Wasn't thinking....
You could argue that, except the lower "anchor" is where the rear seats pivot, it's hardly structural and definitely isn't a safety belt mounting location.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, edited my brilliant post. Totally right, my rsx has the same set-up.
Wasn't thinking....
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i hope he follows threw and makes a new version, i really don't see why more people don't make there own x bars and such.. i mean its just a joint and bar.. heck you can buy all on it on ebay for crap, throw a backyard sticker on it and sell it to some kids parents for 600
jdm tight yo
jdm tight yo








