*Sigh*, I hate to do this, but...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 26
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From: Calgary, Alberta
*Sigh*, I hate to do this, but...
I just got myself an 07 DX-G coupe yesterday. It's my first new car, and I'm loving it. I would've loved an Si... but I couldn't possibly afford the insurance.
I do have a few questions though, and I have searched and looked through the FAQ's.
1) Regarding the break-in. I know this has been covered a lot before, according to the search... but every single time the question was posed, the guy owned an Si.
The advice generally seemed to be, vary the RPM's and keep it out of vtec. Makes sense. But, the R18's version of vtec kicks in at a much earlier RPM. Thus far, I've kept the revs below 5000... usually lower. My first few times through the gears did have me missing a few shifts, as the shifter is still rather stiff... the car only having 15 km on it, so I did rev higher than I intended.
The manual says to avoid full throttle starts for the first 1000km and hard braking for the first 300km. It doesn't say anything about keeping it below a certain RPM, though. So, a more detailed answer would be appreciated. Coming from a D16 sans vtec powered 6th gen Civic, this car already feels quite a bit faster. But, I'm definitely excited to be able to get on it.
2) Can anyone elborate on the drive by wire system? I read in one of the FAQ's that it actually attempts to "learn" how you drive. Is there anything I can do to facilitate quicker learning? This is my first real experience with a DBW Honda, so I'm still getting used to the throttle response. Does the learning process also have any affect on how I should break the car in? I would describe my driving style as spirited... I heel 'n toe very often (the pedal positioning is lovely for this, btw
), and I typically have no reservations about getting on it and working my way up and down through the gears.
3) This one may sound stupid, but I've never owned a 2-door car before. I noticed on the passenger side seat, there's a lever at the bottom back right corner that moves the seat and the seatback all the way forward for easy access to the back seat, and then returns precisely to the original setting when it's moved back into place. But, I haven't found any such thing on the driver's seat, that simultaneously slides the seat and the backrest forward, and doesn't require the re-adjustment of the back-rest after the passenger has gotten in. Am I missing something, or is that it?
Thanks for bearing with me
I do have a few questions though, and I have searched and looked through the FAQ's.
1) Regarding the break-in. I know this has been covered a lot before, according to the search... but every single time the question was posed, the guy owned an Si.
The advice generally seemed to be, vary the RPM's and keep it out of vtec. Makes sense. But, the R18's version of vtec kicks in at a much earlier RPM. Thus far, I've kept the revs below 5000... usually lower. My first few times through the gears did have me missing a few shifts, as the shifter is still rather stiff... the car only having 15 km on it, so I did rev higher than I intended.
The manual says to avoid full throttle starts for the first 1000km and hard braking for the first 300km. It doesn't say anything about keeping it below a certain RPM, though. So, a more detailed answer would be appreciated. Coming from a D16 sans vtec powered 6th gen Civic, this car already feels quite a bit faster. But, I'm definitely excited to be able to get on it.
2) Can anyone elborate on the drive by wire system? I read in one of the FAQ's that it actually attempts to "learn" how you drive. Is there anything I can do to facilitate quicker learning? This is my first real experience with a DBW Honda, so I'm still getting used to the throttle response. Does the learning process also have any affect on how I should break the car in? I would describe my driving style as spirited... I heel 'n toe very often (the pedal positioning is lovely for this, btw
), and I typically have no reservations about getting on it and working my way up and down through the gears. 3) This one may sound stupid, but I've never owned a 2-door car before. I noticed on the passenger side seat, there's a lever at the bottom back right corner that moves the seat and the seatback all the way forward for easy access to the back seat, and then returns precisely to the original setting when it's moved back into place. But, I haven't found any such thing on the driver's seat, that simultaneously slides the seat and the backrest forward, and doesn't require the re-adjustment of the back-rest after the passenger has gotten in. Am I missing something, or is that it?
Thanks for bearing with me
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,618
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From: New Jersey
Re: *Sigh*, I hate to do this, but... (eibbor)
1) For the break in, just dont go on any highway drives and bounc around the rev's a bit to work it oiut. still keep it under 6k for the first 1000 miles if your very concerned.
2) DBW seems to be like the bible... everyone interprets it differently.
Unfortunately... the technology can be read up on a simple internet search.. for our application... its somethin gin the beige...
3) Normal. Its kind of a Memory option where as passengers always change.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
From: Land of Hookers n Blow, NV, USA
Re: *Sigh*, I hate to do this, but... (Type X)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type X »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1) For the break in, just dont go on any highway drives and bounc around the rev's a bit to work it oiut. still keep it under 6k for the first 1000 miles if your very concerned.
2) DBW seems to be like the bible... everyone interprets it differently.
Unfortunately... the technology can be read up on a simple internet search.. for our application... its somethin gin the beige...
3) Normal. Its kind of a Memory option where as passengers always change.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mike, dont bring the bible into this post...remember the last time u got involved in a biblical/religious thread? haha
As far as the "memory" option... all it remembers is the factory position it should be in...ive never seen one go back to the position it was in prior to lifting the lever
1) For the break in, just dont go on any highway drives and bounc around the rev's a bit to work it oiut. still keep it under 6k for the first 1000 miles if your very concerned.
2) DBW seems to be like the bible... everyone interprets it differently.
Unfortunately... the technology can be read up on a simple internet search.. for our application... its somethin gin the beige...
3) Normal. Its kind of a Memory option where as passengers always change.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mike, dont bring the bible into this post...remember the last time u got involved in a biblical/religious thread? haha
As far as the "memory" option... all it remembers is the factory position it should be in...ive never seen one go back to the position it was in prior to lifting the lever
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,618
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Re: *Sigh*, I hate to do this, but... (FBPSidan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FBPSidan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mike, dont bring the bible into this post...remember the last time u got involved in a biblical/religious thread? haha
As far as the "memory" option... all it remembers is the factory position it should be in...ive never seen one go back to the position it was in prior to lifting the lever </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol F'in bible
i kinda meant that you have it set where it should be, and by disrupting it it clears the "memory" something they want the drive to have set
i.e manual adjustments on the side
Mike, dont bring the bible into this post...remember the last time u got involved in a biblical/religious thread? haha
As far as the "memory" option... all it remembers is the factory position it should be in...ive never seen one go back to the position it was in prior to lifting the lever
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol F'in bible
i kinda meant that you have it set where it should be, and by disrupting it it clears the "memory" something they want the drive to have set
i.e manual adjustments on the side
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Re: *Sigh*, I hate to do this, but... (Type X)
For the break-in, here is what I would do, for the first 300-500 miles:
Keep the rev's above ~2k but below ~5k. Going to 6 or 7k once or twice is fine. Going uphill at 1500rpm in 4th = no (you want to keep your oil pressure high).
Vary the RPMs, don't just cruise at the same RPM.
Find a long steep hill and go down it several times, using engine braking. With each downhill section of road you find, use engine braking. The piston rings will seal under both loads and it's important to expose it to both during break-in.
That's it really. Last time I built a motor, I changed the oil (dino) at 50 miles and then again at 300, but thats a little excessive.
Theres the myth that driving hard to break in an engine will yield more power, and thats true to a certain extent, but it's not the whole story. Here's what really happens: On a normal break-in, the engine will continue to make more power as the piston seals improve until ~15k miles. After than the seal will wear and lose power slowly. This can be verified with leak-down numbers. When you break in a motor hard, you reach that peak power sooner, but from then on, all you've really done is accelerated the wear on your motor.
Keep the rev's above ~2k but below ~5k. Going to 6 or 7k once or twice is fine. Going uphill at 1500rpm in 4th = no (you want to keep your oil pressure high).
Vary the RPMs, don't just cruise at the same RPM.
Find a long steep hill and go down it several times, using engine braking. With each downhill section of road you find, use engine braking. The piston rings will seal under both loads and it's important to expose it to both during break-in.
That's it really. Last time I built a motor, I changed the oil (dino) at 50 miles and then again at 300, but thats a little excessive.
Theres the myth that driving hard to break in an engine will yield more power, and thats true to a certain extent, but it's not the whole story. Here's what really happens: On a normal break-in, the engine will continue to make more power as the piston seals improve until ~15k miles. After than the seal will wear and lose power slowly. This can be verified with leak-down numbers. When you break in a motor hard, you reach that peak power sooner, but from then on, all you've really done is accelerated the wear on your motor.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, Alberta
Re: *Sigh*, I hate to do this, but... (Flood5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flood5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the break-in, here is what I would do, for the first 300-500 miles:
Keep the rev's above ~2k but below ~5k. Going to 6 or 7k once or twice is fine. Going uphill at 1500rpm in 4th = no (you want to keep your oil pressure high).
Vary the RPMs, don't just cruise at the same RPM.
Find a long steep hill and go down it several times, using engine braking. With each downhill section of road you find, use engine braking. The piston rings will seal under both loads and it's important to expose it to both during break-in.
That's it really. Last time I built a motor, I changed the oil (dino) at 50 miles and then again at 300, but thats a little excessive.
Theres the myth that driving hard to break in an engine will yield more power, and thats true to a certain extent, but it's not the whole story. Here's what really happens: On a normal break-in, the engine will continue to make more power as the piston seals improve until ~15k miles. After than the seal will wear and lose power slowly. This can be verified with leak-down numbers. When you break in a motor hard, you reach that peak power sooner, but from then on, all you've really done is accelerated the wear on your motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the advice, everyone. If anyone has more insight on the DBW thing... as subjective as it seems to be, apparently, please do chime in. Apparently I'm missing something on that note, so if anyone could direct me towards a link on the subject, that would be great as well.
As for the break-in, I'll do exactly that. Unless the engine isn't actually pulling, I always keep the revs above 2000. Even if I'm cruising, I prefer to keep them above 2000 anyway, just so I can make any quick unexpected manoeuvers without having to downshift. In my old car, it didn't really do much of anything below 2000, so habit will keep me in check, here. That pretty much applies to the rest as well. The brakes on my old car aren't nearly as good as the ones on this thing, so I always use some degree of engine braking when descending a hill. And avoiding a particular engine speed for any extended period of time: That'll be easy. This is why I bought another Honda. I extract a lot of joy simply from working through the gears, nailing a perfectly revmatched downshift, and keeping the engine on its toes
And for the seats... I guess I'll just have rear seat passengers get in from the passenger side. It's not like that situation will come up often, anyway. That's why I bought the coupe. My back seat never gets used. At least not for sitting.
Keep the rev's above ~2k but below ~5k. Going to 6 or 7k once or twice is fine. Going uphill at 1500rpm in 4th = no (you want to keep your oil pressure high).
Vary the RPMs, don't just cruise at the same RPM.
Find a long steep hill and go down it several times, using engine braking. With each downhill section of road you find, use engine braking. The piston rings will seal under both loads and it's important to expose it to both during break-in.
That's it really. Last time I built a motor, I changed the oil (dino) at 50 miles and then again at 300, but thats a little excessive.
Theres the myth that driving hard to break in an engine will yield more power, and thats true to a certain extent, but it's not the whole story. Here's what really happens: On a normal break-in, the engine will continue to make more power as the piston seals improve until ~15k miles. After than the seal will wear and lose power slowly. This can be verified with leak-down numbers. When you break in a motor hard, you reach that peak power sooner, but from then on, all you've really done is accelerated the wear on your motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the advice, everyone. If anyone has more insight on the DBW thing... as subjective as it seems to be, apparently, please do chime in. Apparently I'm missing something on that note, so if anyone could direct me towards a link on the subject, that would be great as well.
As for the break-in, I'll do exactly that. Unless the engine isn't actually pulling, I always keep the revs above 2000. Even if I'm cruising, I prefer to keep them above 2000 anyway, just so I can make any quick unexpected manoeuvers without having to downshift. In my old car, it didn't really do much of anything below 2000, so habit will keep me in check, here. That pretty much applies to the rest as well. The brakes on my old car aren't nearly as good as the ones on this thing, so I always use some degree of engine braking when descending a hill. And avoiding a particular engine speed for any extended period of time: That'll be easy. This is why I bought another Honda. I extract a lot of joy simply from working through the gears, nailing a perfectly revmatched downshift, and keeping the engine on its toes
And for the seats... I guess I'll just have rear seat passengers get in from the passenger side. It's not like that situation will come up often, anyway. That's why I bought the coupe. My back seat never gets used. At least not for sitting.
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