So last monday, I lapped all day and have notice that my front left seemed to "bottom out". Specifically turning right. Checked and the control arm is actually hitting my chassis (both sides).

I just installed 1" top plate on all corners. As we all know, putting extend top plate will give extra travel to the shocks (for lowered cars). If you add 1" travel on the shock, than the upper control arm has an extra 1" travel too. With the extra travel, would this cause to hit my chassis.

When I had my OEM top plates, the clearance were tight (upper control arm vs chassis). Can my front shocks be done? (7 years old: saw alot of track time)
What are the symptoms of finished shocks? Bounciness etc....

Crx Set-up: H&R race, camber kit, koni yellow (clip placed at the middle, no crazy drop)

 

I would say shocks are done, toast, kaput. The extend top hat only gives you a better ride as the shock has more room to travel. This will not eliminate the A-arms contacting the body. I would add new shocks and work from there. How low are you? That is something else we need to know. I would also imagine that your car is lowered too much.

The cool thing about the Koni Yellows are they can be rebuilt.

 

The height is fine because I have been using this set-up for 7 years. Just installed the top plates and fresh H&R race coils. Had Neuspeed race before.

 

the extended top hats (as we normally call them) arent doing anything for your upper control arm hitting the fender.

do you have some kind of camber kit in there? theres really no room in the CRX fender for a camber kit, unless youre trying to dial in more negative camber, which brings the arm in.

H&R coils? are those a regular spring kit? like no adjustable sleeve? how the hell could you preload your springs so much that you could fit that with 1" extended top hats.....

you need more spring. buy some GC.

 

what is the appropiate name for the part that raises the top part of your shocks? and is it possible to just use some kind of spacers? any link to a pic or pic would be nice. thank you.

 

Everything was fine before installing the "extended top hats". I got Ingalls camber kit because I have the 10.3" brakes (Teg brake kit).

 

what does camber have to do with a brake kit?

again i ask, did you install those top hats with normal springs?

 

"Crx Set-up: H&R race, camber kit, koni yellow (clip placed at the middle, no crazy drop) and extended top hats"

And with the 10.3 brake kit (need Teg knuckel and calipers) the camber on our EF would be -3 to -4 degree! So I used the camber kit to correct this excess camber

 

so how did you mount the h&r's with the extended top hats?

(gee, did you notice an extra bit of preload was necessary... *sarcasm*)

what im trying to get at is you shouldnt be using extended top hats with regular spring kits. theyre only made for sleeve type adjustable spring kits.

you shouldnt be using the integra knuckle either. THATS why youre hitting. theyre taller so of course you have less room above your upper control arm.

go find some 90-91 civic EX knuckles. they will fit the larger brake calipers of the integra and match the proper geometry of the EF.

you WANT negative camber for better handling. dialing out negative camber is only for drag racers.


Modified by Tyson at 11:51 AM 5/25/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaak-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And with the 10.3 brake kit (need Teg knuckel and calipers) </TD></TR></TABLE>
theres your problem^

 

Rearding all this, the extended top hats is the problem. The ride is much better, less bounce but under extreme driving (race track) the suspension is really working alot. Before I installed the top hats, everything was fine.

By the way, I'm from Canada and the we never got the Ex model (or very rare).

 

maybe youre binding your springs because of the top hats and you didnt notice the knuckles were also banging the top until you looked.

also, youre running a camber kit? which kind? thats also making things worse.


you came here asking for help. we're telling you whats wrong.

 

Ingalls camber kit.

 

bushing or balljoint kind? youve set it more positive or negative? more positive i assume from what youre saying.

 

Nobody bothered to mention bumpstops? (maybe they did, i'd don't pay much attention)

With the taller mounting point on the shocks you would need a longer bump stop by the same amount. If not, you've just moved your stop point up an inch as well.

 

what? no.

if the extended top hats were made correctly (maybe they werent) the shock is supposed to be able to travel up into the top hat. thats the whole point of them.

 

The Koni head is travelling inside the top hat, this not the problem.

(extended part internal dimension (44.45mm or 1.75'')




The problem is a combination of little thing: Bumstop on Ef a little bit too short, a knuckle issue reducing the room for the arm and finally a softer spring rate.




Modified by JLCivixHBDX at 8:30 AM 5/29/2007